Can you get a close up pic of your ebrake caliper setup please?

 

left:


right:


mounts

 

Thanks! Do you mean those are rear brakes from a 97 4Runner? They look like supra celica brakes. Where'd you get them. I've search everywhere.
I reread your post. Maybe you meant the cable and guides from a 97?

 

yes, those are the Celica calipers. I got them with the full float kit... I'd never find anything like that in the yards in iowa... just the ebrake pull, and cable set-up was from the '97 4-runner. but the calipers are mounted the proper way with the bleeders up so they can be bled normally. The instructions have you mount them with the bleeder down, but they easily just flip side to side.) by doing so, it puts the ebrake pull right behind the axle, and possibly able to clear the bottom of the springs...

I only used the '97 because it's what I could find on eBay. no 4runners in yards aroudn here either... actually, since the '97 is slightly wider (I assume) it allowed enough room to pull the cable up out of the way a bit... not ideal for the slides, but for as much as it will be used, it should last a while....

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I have a couple questions... Yes I know this thread is old but many are subscribed to it

So I know that when you break an axle shaft and do not remove it immediately you take the chance of binding the inner piece into the differential, making it near impossible to remove, correct? So if I were to break a shaft, free the hub, and continue on, would I have to worry about that happening? Or would I be able to drive a mile and stick a magnet in there a pull the broken piece out with no issues what so ever?

Also, how does this set up work with an automatic locker? would the freed hub and spinning of the axle get in each others way and cause issues?

 

Probably depends on how and where the shaft broke. You have the inside end supported by the splines in the diff, then there is that oil shield near the center of the housing then there is the outer oil seal and spindle for support. If it broke some place inside the axle tube, the broken ends might flop around inside. But if it snapped at the inner or outer splines and did so fairly cleanly, should not be a problem.

 

Any updates or longevity reports. Might be doing this soon. Thanks

 

Still running mine, 11 years on. I did have the ARB locker break in the rear diff. (unrelated to the axle conversion) and having the full floater was awesome for that. I was driving and heard the rear end start to let go. Made it home and did a quick test to verify it was the rear diff that was making the noises. I had another appointment that I had to get to that day and in just a few minutes, I dropped the rear shaft, unlocked the rear hubs, locked the front and took off in FWD. Next day I pulled the rear diff, threw in an old junk 3rd member to fill the hole and then drove around for a week while the shop rebuilt the original diff and ARB. Then changing the diff was trivial, just unbolt the locking hubs and slide the axle shafts out a few inches and you can remove or install the rear diff. That and the smooth ride now with no bent axle shafts makes it worthwhile.

Videos below:

 

Nice, thanks Roger for the feedback and videos, I will order this kit this week hopefully.

 

Also, did the swap add anything width wise? Seems like it would have to push the WMS out a tad.. thanks