pyrojoe22

Sorry, not trying to jack, just making sure that this axle will work for 37's before I buy this kit. I'm going to Denver next week so I'm going to look for parts like calipers, hubs etc etc. Is using RTV Ultra Blue or Black OK instead of using Toyota's seals, because theirs are ridiculously expensive, and apparently don't work.

RBX

Thanks Rodger

If I can't afford the full float now, does someone make the bracket for the supra brakes?
I'd like to do the full float eventually, doing it in phases would help my priority list.

camo31_10.50

Sky makes a bracket for the discs and such, i can't remember which calipers they were though :/

RBX

Yeah they and most are for the gm discs. I'd like to put the Supras on since that is one step closer to the full float.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

FROR full floater axles, hub conversion parts
4 cylinder Toyota vented rotors
4 cylinder calipers
Chromoly drive flanges
All Pro E-Brake Kit

No need for huge rear disc brakes as you want your stopping power up front anyway

Again, one of the best mods you can do a wheeler. On a dd, no need as you lose your e-brake and no need for full floater on a dd IMO.

:wabbit2:

RBX

I have the disc and caliper setup already, but my project is an auto and the transfer e-brake won't fit the auto. On a semi related note, can I install my m/t transfer on the auto? It's from a 4 cylinder.

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=86

pyrojoe22

I'll agree that 70% of your stopping power comes from the front brakes so you don't really need huge rear brakes, but I'd take all the brakes I can get. And for a dd, you would want a full floater IMO, even more than a non dd, if you actually use your truck. It increases your load capacity and puts less stress on your axle shafts, so hauling cattle feed around won't be so hard on my truck.

camo31_10.50

by daily driver, he means people commuting back and forth to work and school and around town..

since MOST people just use their trucks for small jobs and commuting.

what's wrong with using GM brakes and Supra Calipers? wouldn't be a problem would it?

RBX

Today i made a spread sheet based on the 4x4Wire.com review of the FROR Full Floater Conversion.
I can send the spread sheet to anyone interested.
If someone with first hand experience could proof read the quantities and list of items that would be tremendous.
I wonder if FROR would let you source your own rotors to save a few bucks on their kit.
Oh, and no i didn't include the FROR kit price, just the extra parts you would need.
edit: I just looked on WabFab's site, and there seems to be a few parts that can be sourced thru him, hopefully Wabbit will chime in with some info on related parts he carries. Personally i'd rather by from a sponsor.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might ask Brian at FROR about the rotors. I had heard that they are solid axle rotors, perhaps turned down to about 0.420" thickness, although I don't know what a stock front axle rotor measures, so can't confirm that.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I bought the rear axle shafts, adapter for rear discs and the aluminum adapter piece for the axle seal from FROR iirc. I sourced everything else myself. Knuckle service kit is the cheapest route for all those parts, plus the brake calipers, rotors and hardware, plus the extra wheel hubs, spindles and hubs/drive flanges. I have everything but the used spindles and wheel hubs.

It's definitely a great mod and piece of mind if you run big tires. My conversion is still going strong and held up flawlessly.

:wabbit2:

RBX

Rodger,
Do you mean solid rotors(non-vented)? I'm guessing they are solid since the supra rear rotors are solid which means much thinner then vented.
I'm pretty sure they are solid front axle rotors, not sure on the thickness.

RBX

So if i read that correctly, you didn't by the full...uh...full floater kit, just pieces? Perhaps i should contact FROR, and get the parts break-out.

thanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings
(2) wheel bearing nut kits
Vented 4 cyl rotors like off 87 4Runner
Calipers off the same with bolts (what I used cause I already had it)
Or you can use V6 stuff
Upgrade brake MC to 1" bore
Remove lspv go to manual pc
FROR axle shafts, disc adapter, axle shaft aluminum adapter
I upgraded axle housing bolts
Used spindles, wheel hubs, Aisins or drive flanges

I'll update if I remember more as it's been a while since I did this mod.

:wabbit2:

RBX

Thanks Wabbit,
I am going to be going with the Supra brakes, simply because i need my e-brake, and i have an A/T.... for now.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

For the Supra e-brake, if you have other than stock rear springs/u-bolts, you may need to do some mods to make it work right. I have 8 leaf Alcan springs and a u-bolt flip and the the e-brake cable wants to come right through the spring plate and u-bolt nuts. Working on a riser for the e-brake lever with a heim joint end to eliminate binding there. My current setup just barely actuates the e-brake but I think it basically binds up under the cable force due to the direction of motion. Stock e-brake lever is vertical and pulls straight inward with the pivot axis in-line front-rear of the vehicle. The Supra lever is horizontal and pivots on a vertical axis making it want to bind as the force increases:

(Pic. from the 4x4wire article)



Pic. of my current setup. I made bracket to move the cable back, but that severely decreases the length of the e-brake lever and also binds up under the e-brake cable force. Modifications will be to trim my u-bolts as short as I can, then raise the cable up over the ends of the u-bolt for a straighter pull and adding a heim joint at the cable connection to the lever extension to eliminate the binding.

RBX

Rodger,
Would rotating the axle slightly help the u-bolt clearance?
I have another axle Im going to build so I could move the spring perch position(rotate the axle).
Also, would IFS locking hubs work?

pyrojoe22

I would also like to know the complete answer to this one. I believe what I heard was that the IFS has 26 splines while the solid axle has 27 so they won't work? Does anyone know if any parts at all from the IFS front will work? Because I'm just getting ready to do the FF conversion as well as the SAS and being able to save a few bucks by using IFS components I already have for the FF would be awesome. I'm guessing that the aluminum hub with the lock out switch would work, as well as the spring that sits inside of the switch (the red switch, black ring, and shiny silver piece behind it). Any farther in then that and I'm not sure.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Rear axle shafts are 30 spline.

Read the 4x4wire write up. It tells you what parts you need.

No, the IFS stuff will not work.

:wabbit2: