I plan to step up to 35's by the summer. Pro comp stage two 4" lift, 2" body lift, 1.5 bj spacers with the torsions neg 1.5. I also plan on getting an idler arm brace and warn manual hubs with "fuses" in them. From what I read they break and stop the wheel from putting power down incase the CV is going to break. That seems like the answer to my main problem with going to 35's.

What do you guys think? I'll more than likely go with Goodyear MT/r's. Sugestions ideas? BTW where can I look up weight specs for tires? If I can find a 35 that weighs similar to 33's I'll go with that for the sake of weight on IFS.

 

I think that planning breakage is foolish. CV changes on the trail are not bad.

I have not had good luck with idler arm braces.

Good luck.

 

I read plenty of people going 35's and not breaking. Theres no rocks in NJ and that where I hear the most about breakage.

 

Don't go lettin' em talk you back over the fence, now stay commited. We are a dying breed, my friend. Take a look at how nice my 35's float that sucker up there. You do know what's gonna happen if you wheel hard though? I have a list of what will break. 1.Steering, whole shebang. 2.7.5" axle, just the gears, R&P and/or side gears. 3. Transfer-case bearings. 4. Universal joints ALL. 5. Crucial, your bank, if you don't have $ to support a 35 addiction.

Hey, Dude! DON'T get the wrong idea. I will love nothing smaller till the day I die!

6.Torsion bars, no break, but fatigue QUICKLY. 7. Rear axle wrap issue, need stiffer springs or trac-bar, etc.

This all comes from personal exp. , but do whatcha like , brotha! Limits are there to be discovered, it's different with every veh.

 

I mean hub fuses. Inserting something you intend to break is usually a pain.

Do whatever you want, I am offering my opinion which may or may not be relevant as you see fit.

 

Hmmm Starting to gain a wider view of thinks. I just stopped and thought that I'm going to spend $200 on manual hubs, $650 on a lift kit, $300 on an idler arm, and have spent $120 on BJ spacers. I just paid for a SAS using a budget build... Time to start rethinking what worth the money and what isnt...

Sorry to start and post then change my mind 20mins later but I was doing some research on 35's on IFS goodle style and the first post said that a good lift kit is half the cost of a budget SAS... I need to stop planning routes that will have me spending my money twice.

 

$#@* lost another!!!!!!! A LITTLE HELP NEXT TIME!!! I know I'm not the only idiot with 35's IFS.

 

Sorry man it just doesnt make sense to spend the same money on a SAS as you can have to to lift and beef an inferior system that will most likely cost more as time goes on and things break.

 

Exactly my point of why to run 33x10.50 on no lift.

I don't think Warn makes the fuses for our hubs anymore - too many problems with them breaking when they didn't need to and not breaking when they DO need to. There's a couple threads on them around.

You've made several posts about modding the truck - have you taken it out and wheeled it to its limits yet?

 

I've wheeled it hard enough to snap my idler arm off and break the bearing cage in my axle. The Solid front gives a huge piece of mind that the truck is done right and I dont have to worry about it breaking the next trail ride. Plus I want to go bigger with my truck and I'll be worried even more if its on 35's on IFS.

 

All I can say is thank god for lifetime warranty on Oreily's Idler arms heh



I've been wheeling 35's for about a year and a half and until recently I snapped my R&P although I was going thru an idler arm per trip. Oh yeah the truck has no lift kit and is still IFS, but the SAS is on the way soon.

 

I think 33's are the realistic limit to IFS if youplan to use it. 35's are the practical limit for a 2wd street rig.