Ok I am a new guy so hope I am doing this right. Anyway here goes. I have an 82 toyota pickup, 33s, skyjacker 4in lift, ifs aluminum case trans, home-made trans crossmember, and a 20-22r hybrid engine. Of course i need some new gears, but i want to install any other axle parts while i have the axles apart. I was wondering if I could get some information about lockers limited slips etc. I have experience with a detroit in the back of a cj5 (deathtrap on the road) so i am not completely in the dark I just need some toyota specific info. Also i would like to keep the birfields in the front as price is a concern.

 

I am currently running a Lock-rite in the rear and a detroit truetrac in the front. The combo seems to work well.

The lock-rite is a an automatic locker that has the rear wheels locked together but allows them to spin with some independence in turns. It take a little while to get used to the driving but basically the trick is to just be either coasting or powering the whole way through a turn. The lock-rite is fairly inexpensive and easy to install.

The benefit to a limited slip in the front is that when you're in 4WD you get added traction but the turning radius is not as affected as a full locker. If you only wheel moderately it is a good option, rock crawlers would probably use a real locker in the front however.

 

Ok thanks, I have good things about the Lock Rite except for the fact that they stress the carrier. Have any thoughts about welding the back end? I know spooling the front is a bad idea i just sold a friend my extra birfs after he grenaded his spooled front. I will be wheeling blairsville, tellico and places like those so hopefully rocks won't be a problem.

 

have heard

 

Spooling the rear is definitely an option. I've never driven one, but I also like my tires how they are so the Lock-Rite is good enough for me.

Lock-rite stresses the carrier? That's news to me... Intrepid may speak up soon, he has been running a lock-rite for a while and I don't think he's had any problems with his carrier, and he wheels his rig pretty hard. He also has a spooled front end and really likes it.

The way I have had it explained before (and it makes good sense) is that with lockers/spools you can stress things more, sure, but you also have way more traction and control, so you can creep over things and track through difficult obstacles rather than relying on momentum (which probably breaks things alot more).

So you're up in north GA? I live north of Atlanta and do some stuff up around Suches, but I have yet to go to Tellico. I'm still a wheeling newbie for sure...

 

You rang?
I have wheeled and DD'ed a lockrite for a while now and I have never had a problem with it. I would definitely recommend it.
I have a welded front, it works fine. Turning is a little harder and when the hubs are locked I have a much larger turning radius, but I like it much better than being open in the front. I haven't wheeled it too much yet though.

 

Aussie Lockers are available for front & rear. That's what I run for wheeling & DD. They're well built and quite cheap. See gearinstalls.com for example installations. I'd hate to wheel with a front spool. At least my Aussie will ratchet a little when turning with the hubs locked in.

 

I have ARB's front and rear and like them alot. While the compressor is awful slow, it sure is nice to have.

I would put a real locker in the front, not a TruTrac. Just fristrating as hell, won't lock up when you really need it.

Being able to unlock the front helps protect the birfs, I would go ARB or elocker in the front...

 

ARB or Elocker...do er right

 

I'm a LockRite man!

 

Here's some really good info on lockers found on this forum, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=Locker+FAQ Tons of information inside there.

 

I wish i had the dough for the selectable stuff! I am in college so i stay broke. I have some schematics for putting a toyota e locker in my axles but cant find the e locker in any junkyards prob couldnt afford it if i found it. Sounds like lock rights for me. Thanks guys. Ive got some weber 32 26 questions but i guess thats a different thread.

 

I've a Detroit Soft Locker rear and an Aussie Locker in front. I'm very happy with them, the truck capabilities have multiplied by 4!

I went with a Soft Locker instead of a lunchbox because my truck had LSD from stock and my carrier didn't work with lunchbox.

Go Aussie, they're very nice!

David

 

I can't specifically say anything about a Lock Right in a Toyota axle, but I had one in the rear of a '94 Mazda Navajo 4wd (same as a 2 door Ford Explorer) with a Ford 8.8 rear axle.

The Lock Right was hard to live with at times, especially in a short wheelbase vehicle with a manual transmission. I actually hated it sometimes, being that it was my only vehicle.

It wore out after about 37,000 miles. It would ratchet on the driver side while going straight under heavy load, such as when I would have the right rear wheel off the ground. It made a loud DUT-DUT-DUT-DUT-DUT-DUT sound, and even caused the tire to slip on the rim.

I replaced it with a No Slip, and have gone more than twice the milage with no problems.

The Lock Right coupler halves connected to the outside wheel ratchet while turning, and the No Slip coupler halves separate. This means that the No Slip will wear less.

The coupler halves separating also mean that the No Slip is much smoother. The smoother operation of the No Slip is also because there are springs that dampen the backlash (play) that a locker needs to function correctly.

I would guess that the No Slip is about 80% smoother and 98% quieter than the Lock Right. And having had both in the same axle of the same vehicle is a good test, because all other variables have been eliminated.

The No Slip is well worth the extra $100-$150 over the Lock Right, especially in a daily driver.

I drove my Navajo from Florida to Washington State in '99 with a Lock Right. I drove it from Florida to Washington State in '04 with a No Slip. Guess which trip was more pleasant?

As far as a Lock Right (or No Slip) causing failure, because of the design, the coupler halves for both sides tend to try to spread under load, which could possibly damage the carrier. It doesn't happen often, but it could happen. It is more common in some axles than others, but it still could happen.

 

I guess I'm not that picky. I just put a Lock Rite in the front,and I would have nothing else!

 

Any one put a lockrite in front A.D.D diff