i want to get the NWOR swaybar disconnects because they are on sale at the moment for $45. but my question is is that i plan to lift the 4runner with OME coils and 1.5" ball joint spacers in the very near future. should i get the ones for the 0"-2" lift or go with the 3"-4" lift sway bar disconnects.

 

probably get the 3-4" ones unless the coils are only going to give you .5" of lift...

 

i dont see why coils would matter since they are in the rear. i am getting the sway bar disconnects for the front of my 1993 4runner and i want to know if the 0"-2" lift discos are long enough or should i go with the 3"-4" lift ones. i wont be putting these on until i have the ball joint spacers installed. will the ball joint spacers even effect the length of the sway bar?

 

Yes, any sort of lift will affect the sway bar end link length. Ideally, you want the ends of the sway bar to remain in their stock orientation, typically parallel to the ground. If you lift the front end, the ends of the bar would drop downwards. With that you get uneven forces on each side in a turn. So best to match the end link length to the lift in order to restore the sway bar ends to the stock position.

 

so you think i should get teh 0" to 2" lift ones?

 

I used turn buckles.
I cut the eyes off of the studs, and welded them to the 1/2 in of swaybar link that I left on top and bottom after I cut them.
Then I just thread the actual turnbuckle on to the studs and walla It holds even if I pick up a wheel. And it disconnect faster than regular discos and when you upgrade the lift you just buy a longer turnbuckle link.
it cost me like 5 bucks and 30 min.
If you want I can post pics....

And yes they are proven strong!!!

 

give me as many pics as you can $5 is a lot better the $45

 

k ill try to get them up tomarro night

 

ah ok.... get the 2" ones then, didtn realize the coils were for the rear.... i was thinking they were up front.... out back, my truck has leaves

 

"It's often better to sit in silence and be thought a fool, than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt".....Mark Twain.

4Crawler is spot on, as your sway bar will work best if the ends are parallel to the ground. Not a big deal when lifting up to 2", but if you are going for the disco's why not get them in the proper length.

Your best bet is to do the BJ spacers 1st. While installing them you could get the actual measurements and then order the length you need from 4Crawler. Buy once, cry once. You can run the stock end links until you can order the discos with out any problems.

You'll probably find that the discos only need to be ~3/4" longer than stock. When adding BJ spacers for lift, what you are actually doing is pushing the knuckle and lower A arm down. The A arm is pushes down 1 1/2" at the outboard end. The sway bar link is half way between the A arm pivot and the ball joint. So the point at which it attaches is only pushed down ~1/2 half the distance as the ball joint. (this is not exact just a good rule of thumb).

Order from 4Crawler, you won't be sorry. If you must order from NWOR let me be the 1st to say "I told you so"

Jake.

 

just take the sway bar off... thats what i did. i took it off to build discos and then never got around to building them or putting it back on.

 

Also a good option

[quote]"It's often better to sit in silence and be thought a fool, than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt".....Mark Twain.

4Crawler is spot on, as your sway bar will work best if the ends are parallel to the ground. Not a big deal when lifting up to 2", but if you are going for the disco's why not get them in the proper length.

Your best bet is to do the BJ spacers 1st. While installing them you could get the actual measurements and then order the length you need from 4Crawler. Buy once, cry once. You can run the stock end links until you can order the discos with out any problems.

You'll probably find that the discos only need to be ~3/4" longer than stock. When adding BJ spacers for lift, what you are actually doing is pushing the knuckle and lower A arm down. The A arm is pushes down 1 1/2" at the outboard end. The sway bar link is half way between the A arm pivot and the ball joint. So the point at which it attaches is only pushed down ~1/2 half the distance as the ball joint. (this is not exact just a good rule of thumb).

Order from 4Crawler, you won't be sorry. If you must order from NWOR let me be the 1st to say "I told you so"

Jake.


WOW your smart

 

heres the pics of my discos. I used a nut as a sleeve to join the stud with the link (its what I had laying around, I did this when I was board one day, I didnt even know if it would work.) I supose a piece of small tubing would work better...

 

Actually the NWOR disconnects are fairly decent, look very similar to what I make. I think they use plated steel and smaller dia. pins than mine do, mine are mostly s/s and aluminum. They are all copies of the old Drew Persson s/s disconnects:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/revie...dis/index.html

At that $45 sale price, hard to beat that deal, that is less than what the parts cost is for mine.