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Wow, this is ambitious! This'll be a sweet ride when you're done. I recently did Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro in the front fenders and wheel wells of my T100, and the difference was dramatic.
How difficult was it to remove all the interior panels? Any tips?
Wow, this is ambitious! This'll be a sweet ride when you're done. I recently did Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro in the front fenders and wheel wells of my T100, and the difference was dramatic.
How difficult was it to remove all the interior panels? Any tips?
Interior panels are a breeze to remove.
Tips:
The plastic tabs that go into the alligator clips that hold the headliner and front pillar trim on are probably brittle. Take your time pulling those trim pieces off.
keep a pair of needle-nose pliers handy to extract the alligator clips from the slots in the sheet metal.
Measure out the slots in the sheet metal and order new clips online (the largest that will fit). The smaller ones have a tendency to rattle a bit. I was able to get a box of 100 from a local body shop.
Other than that, it took maybe 15 mins to completely strip the interior.
Just discovered this build, very cool, I love the attention to detail!
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
Just discovered this build, very cool, I love the attention to detail!
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
I love ALL Toyota trucks. The 88 is mega cool.
Feel free to ask away, I’d love to answer any questions!
You have been getting pretty lucky on used parts in excellent shape!
I have! To be honest, I keep going back to this one yard that has a BEAUTIFUL T100 that was scrapped just because of the rear axle. Not much left anymore, but I’m hoping to snatch the frame off of it before it goes to the crusher.
I noticed that on both dashes, the windshield defroster vent assembly is not actually sealed to the dash pad, allowing large amounts of air to be able to escape the vents before even making it to the windshield.
So I’m just using some extra Copper RTV I had laying around to run an ugly (but effective) finger bead of sealant to provide an airtight seal. This should be a major improvement of airflow over stock.
I think it will be an even tie of keeping sound in / keeping sound out / keeping beer cold / keeping women hot / and hushing the screams in crowded parking lots.
Thank You for finding the, cure to my infection of the dreaded "SVS" (Sloppy Vents Syndrome).😏 I have tried everything to find a cure, hitting the dash with fists, tape over the vent face (' course that kept the vent from working ) even to turning the stock EOM radio up loud ( That was worse than the vent rattle EOM speakers ya know) . All in all I had pretty much given up and then along comes you post-- Eureka! All I have to do is pull my dash out, fix the offensive little beggars and reinstall my dash---YEP easy pezzy🤪😵😮😁😁🤣
Seriously: good post, I'll get to mine someday because now I know how to fix 'em 👍👍👍
Fastest way to get it done is to take the whole assembly out in one piece.
This also allows you to get some measurements from center to center on the ends so when you put it back together it’s not TOTALLY way out of alignment.
This should allow you to get down the road safely enough to get an alignment on it when it’s back together.
Well, I think that (new Moog stuff) looks real pretty. Now you should see a horse power increase by 10 or 20%
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Really do like the look of your new headliner material Should be "over the top" (of your head) when your done. OK I'll stop now.
Nov 21, 2018 | 03:50 PM
Should be "over the top" (of your head) when your done. 
OK I'll stop now.
