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Funny you mention this. I have to keep a window cracked in the cab just to shut the door properly. The air pressure wont let me just swing the door shut! Nuts!!
Yes ignition and gas door key are the same. On the new bed swap your original black bed gas door lock to match with the ?ignition?
On my DX (one style grade down) I have Two keys both for Ignition and gas door. So no clue as to your 3d mystery key. Though it may have been a "valet key" (ignition only) so to keep them out of the gas filler?
I'd check with an Old Time locksmith, guy. You know the guy whos shop has been there 100 years and he has more locks and parts than sand grains on the beach.They usually know how to rekey weird "Unusual " locks, that gas door lock isn't all that complex- I don't think
When I bought my 95T100 DX it had a small key stamped "T100 Tire". So, I assume at one time there was a lock on the hole to spare tire winch system. If it was there, it is no longer. It was a smaller single cut side key, though. Like a padlock key.
I also have a mysterious black box/case behind the passenger side of the bench seat. I have no idea what it is or how to access it. If anyone knows...………..
What is the function of the little bearings in the steering box? I have never seen one tore open like that. That looks like a job getting back together!!!!
What is the function of the little bearings in the steering box? I have never seen one tore open like that. That looks like a job getting back together!!!!
The bearings ride in the grooves of the shaft so the shaft and the block never are actually touching each other.
the bearings ride up the shaft, they go I to a hole in the threads, and rollback to the bottom and get back in line to ride back up again.
At this point is just makes sense to make a matching trailer for the truck.
I sitting here looking at a spare rear harness that has the connectors I could use to have fully functional lights (including reverse) by just not throwing away my old harness and I have an extra bed now sitting in the back yard.
Great job on the wire bundle, ( you did check the continuity didn't you? )
Truck looks good in the last picture, Oh, an' I use the same brand of potty pads for my puppy.
I’m running behind on my timelines so I’m going to have to wait until later after the truck is on the road to tear down, sandblast, and Powdercoat the rear axle housing.
Great job on the wire bundle, ( you did check the continuity didn't you? )
Truck looks good in the last picture, Oh, an' I use the same brand of potty pads for my puppy.
I’m pretty good with wires. I don’t think I need to check them.
I’m willing to roll the dice.
Since I was under the dash for the steering shaft and the speedometer cable needs replaced, I figure I might as well just pull the dash, clean it up back there, and route the stereo power cable, RCA cables, and hands free microphone, etc...
While I’m skinning my knuckles in the dash, the bed is outside drying 3 coats of rubberized undercoating after 2 solid days of cleaning and degreasing.
Taking the body mount bolts out to install the body lift.
Seeing as how the coolant overflow tank sits DIRECTLY above the drivers side bolt, I’m thinking this isn’t the only truck like this.
Look at the difference between the drivers side and passenger side.
Also, look at the hole it goes in.
The frame around the bolt is completely corroded as well. The rotten hole is only about 1/4” smaller than the large captive washer in top.looks like I’m going to have to weld a plate in to reinforce this.
Nov 3, 2018 | 02:27 PM
If anyone knows...………..
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