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Here is is folks. Side by side.
The one on the left was in the truck and was making me pull my hair out with the extra bulb that had no home.
like mentioned above, the PO switched it out and ruined my summer because the online diagrams of these things are just SOOOOO bad.
Whatsup with your thing about sliding rear glass? Just curious.
Just a personal preference.
I like the smooth dark glass look. Not a fan of felt, and in a truck that you can’t even reach the rear window while driving it’s just not worth it to me.
I loved that about my Tundra. The one-piece power rear window is hands down one of the best features.
Before.
The majority of this fluid was on there before I disconnected the hoses. Probably just a bad o-ring or seal in the nose. Looks like it has been leaking from the shaft output seal.
Well, I plan on running a larger tire.
I have 1.5” wheel spacers in hand already.
.....and when you have the steering shaft unbolted and the bed off, the difference between body lift and no body lift is only like (6) bolts now.
.....so it’s more like “why not”. Lol.
Last edited by 55reasons; Oct 28, 2018 at 03:02 PM.
While the steering gear is out, I had to replace this seal.
If you have hot air blowing on your balls when you’re driving you either have wife material or you need one of these.
I ordered the body lift yesterday for the T100 from 4Crawler.
I can’t say enough bad things about the ordering process.
Sure enough, AFTER I ordered everything I thought I needed without being able to talk to them on the phone about it before hitting the “pay” button, I realized there was one thing missing.
Emailed asking for a phone number, got an email back with a phone number. Called it, no answer. Go figure.
I don’t care how good the kit is, almost nothing is worth ordering the way they have it set up from a company that goes to great lengths to hide their phone number until AFTER you hit the “pay” button.
Anyway, at some point, I should be installing a 2” body lift as one of the last stages prior to paint before it hits the road.
I’ll do my best to detail the install process when that happens.
One for the ignition, one that doesn’t appear to fit anything, and one that opens the gas door.
I don’t have a key for the gas door on the new bed.
When new, did the ignition key open the gas door?
Yes ignition and gas door key are the same. On the new bed swap your original black bed gas door lock to match with the ?ignition?
On my DX (one style grade down) I have Two keys both for Ignition and gas door. So no clue as to your 3d mystery key. Though it may have been a "valet key" (ignition only) so to keep them out of the gas filler?
Originally Posted by 55reasons
Tips to get past the lock?
Tips to get the ignition and gas door to match?
I'd check with an Old Time locksmith, guy. You know the guy whos shop has been there 100 years and he has more locks and parts than sand grains on the beach.They usually know how to rekey weird "Unusual " locks, that gas door lock isn't all that complex- I don't think
I ordered the body lift yesterday for the T100 from 4Crawler.
I can’t say enough bad things about the ordering process.
Sure enough, AFTER I ordered everything I thought I needed without being able to talk to them on the phone about it before hitting the “pay” button, I realized there was one thing missing.
Emailed asking for a phone number, got an email back with a phone number. Called it, no answer. Go figure.
I don’t care how good the kit is, almost nothing is worth ordering the way they have it set up from a company that goes to great lengths to hide their phone number until AFTER you hit the “pay” button.
Anyway, at some point, I should be installing a 2” body lift as one of the last stages prior to paint before it hits the road.
I’ll do my best to detail the install process when that happens.
.......and the kit showed up with white spacers instead of black. If only there was a way to verify your order before they take your money.
I’m beyond irritated. Besides, why is white even the default color for body spacers?
Oct 27, 2018 | 06:33 PM
