Started tearing down the axle today. Didn't get very far once I found an electrical gremlin wreaking havoc on my trucks charging system. More on that at another time.



Crappy picture


eww


push pull anyone?


Steering stops aren't caved in. They will be boxed.


I only got about half of one of the auto hubs torn down. Then I realized I need a torx bit to take those apart. Then decided I didn't want to mess with the thing any longer. I'm going to tear the axle down, get it cleaned up, add a diff guard and upper truss, do the wheel bearings/ seals and whatnot, then I'd just need a diff.
Going with a 5.29 High pinion with either a grizzly or detroit.

 

what the HELL was the P.O. of that axle thinking?? OSHA Orange?

looks good so far, scuub... just need a 100 gallon parts washer to let that thing sit in for a week or 2 to clean it... LOL...

and you ARE keeping the autolocking Hubs, riiiiigggghhhttt? they are prolly worth a small fortune to restorers...

 

No idea what the guy was thinking.
Guy I bought it from said he got it that way...

Auto hubs will probably end up in the scrap pile.

Went out and decided to pull the brake calipers off. Also attempted to get the steering arms off then I remembered they are set by cone washers. Too late to go at it with the BFH.

 

awww maaan... i love oddball crap like that... you gonna charge me a storage fee if i ask you to hold onto those hubs for me until i am able to make it down there?

 

If you want them.. then no I won't charge you a storage fee.

 

do you still have the lock right locker? does it click alot like mentioned in some other forums?

 

Yehhhh buddy butters! Amped for you scuba!

 

Not really. If you use a 140 weight diff oil it'll quiet it down some too. I'm only running the 75-90 but when it does click it doesn't bother me.




And thanks Joe!!

 

alright. im deciding between a lock right and detroit. ive heard good and bad things about both. detroits are just so pricey though!

 

Dude congrats! I'm a little late on this, but that ok. Hit me up when ever you began selling you ifs stuff. I need some extra crap to take up space in my shed.

Good luck on the swap!

 

however dirty that axle might be, im still jealous i wish i had me one of those pups

 

I was bored today.. so I messed with the rear LSPV. Cut the rod and took the bracketry off of the rear axle. then suspended what was left of the rod as far up as possible. Basically just making the rear end brakes do more work.
Then I sprayed some of the bolts, brake fittings and other stuff back there with some PB blaster. After my trip to Moab, stupidly, I didn't wash the truck for like a month and a half. Well, I think when I drove through ST. George that weekend through the snow there must have been salt on the road because there is corrosion on some stuff around the truck. Whatever. I'll live.

I also stripped the solid axle a little more. I pulled the stock push pull steering arms off in preparation for the Hysteer arms that I got for free from a TTORA member on our most recent Hammers run.

Meet Tom:


He did a trunion bearing eliminator on his SA.
These arms didn't work with the trunion bearing eliminator, so he had them lying around and offered them to me. HELL YEAH!



Also realized the "snout" would fall right off.. Now I need to figure out how to get the knuckle off. I think I need to get the lower 4 trunion bolts off and then the knuckle will come off. But, I'm not sure. I'll have to do some reading.


Heres a couple pictures from our run up Clawhammer and Chocolate Thunder at the Hammers this past sunday.. I made it up Chocolate Thunder with no issues. Meaning, I believe I hold the title for being the first full bodied IFS truck to make it up Chocolate Thunder.

Claw:




Chocolate Thunder:




Trip report: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f100...9-11-a-227335/

Thats all for now.

 

I spent some time making a mount for my new Garmin Oregon 450 today.
I basically followed this write up but did a couple things differently in regards to how the mount was assembled but it basically came out the same.





BOOGERS!!!




It doesn't block any view out of the front. It actually sits about right where the a pillar is in my vision. I need to order up the Garmin car adapter stuff so I can have a rechargeable battery and a power cord (which will be hard wired).

 

Nice, I need to get one of those.

 

looks good, scoob... i need one of those for my phone...

 

Something way more simple for an iPhone.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f97/...00-gps-210016/

Here's what my nuvi looked like on it.


Profit VSM..
http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/Adobe/TY-72-95.pdf

Found here:
http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/toyota


Then.. add the iphone cradle...
http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/Adobe/MI-300.pdf

Found here
http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/shopholders.htm

And have at it.

I was going to try and adapt some of the ram stuff to fit my profit VSM but it wasn't worth my time. I'm actually going to be buying the iPhone adapter so I can use my digital inclonometer app when I'm crawling.

 

you know, i saw that, but i cant mount it there for 2 reasons...
1, itll interfere with where my CB mike hangs
2, i dont wanna hear my GF piss and moan about how its cutting into her leg room... she already complains because i downsized from the runner to this and now she has to put her purse, her travel bag, her dog and her pillows in the seat with her...

 

I've got the top of the head semi torn down at the moment.. My exhaust valves are wayyyy tight.
Spec is .014 and one of them was .003
I'm lucky I haven't cracked the head.

The intake clearances are okay at the moment. After I get these exhaust valves taken care of.. I'll drive till next payday and tear it all down again and get the intake shims done..




Exhaust cam out.. exhaust buckets and shims easily accessible




Not to self. Toyota says check the valves at 60K... Pismojoe recommends 30K...
I'll split the difference at 45K for now on


PS... Thanks for all the help Joe!!

 

No problem bud! Lookin good

 

so, you gonna adjust mine when im down there for toyotafest in may?