habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1881
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Where I found most helpful info for me...
from shinyblackdeer:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1480759-post141.html
from BigFishAllDay:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post1038490
post 11, from black taco:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...please-247763/
And this help me figure out how to get the diff light to work rather than use the lock light indicated in the dpdt relay diagram:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/__BT1XDdqlKU/Sa...%20diagram.jpg
I've also got to find some terminals to fit the switch so I can light it with the dash lights.
That Radio Shack DPDT relay was on clearance for a little over 3 bucks....
More stuff later...
from shinyblackdeer:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1480759-post141.html
from BigFishAllDay:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post1038490
post 11, from black taco:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...please-247763/
And this help me figure out how to get the diff light to work rather than use the lock light indicated in the dpdt relay diagram:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/__BT1XDdqlKU/Sa...%20diagram.jpg
I've also got to find some terminals to fit the switch so I can light it with the dash lights.
That Radio Shack DPDT relay was on clearance for a little over 3 bucks....
More stuff later...
#1883
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
I might actually get up that step....
but I'm not sleeping under the overhang!
but I'm not sleeping under the overhang!
#1884
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Just putting my locker wiring info all together in this post. This truck has no pre-wiring, just a rr diff lock light in the gauge cluster that I put a bulb in and added the wire for. I do not have a locker ECU.
From locker pigtail to inside truck under the left rear seat:
Used Toyota# 82998-24180 to add a connection to the rr diff lock light that was in the gauge cluster. Red wire, pin 8.
And wiring continuing from connector under left rear seat to DPDT relay behind kick panel and separate sensor wire that connects directly to the end of the red wire pictured above:
12VDC/10A DPDT Relay
Radio Shack # 275-218
Quick disconnects female .187"
Conduct-Tite #85545
Repair pin
Toyota# 82998-24180
14g wire, heat shrink, solder, 'lectrical tape, junk like that.
Also, I found if I wrote what the wire pin number was on the heat shrink at the connectors and then shrunk it I could still read what I wrote. It's like shrinky dinks. Makes it easier to keep track of what wire goes to what.
Links to other people's hard work about 3 posts back. Would have had a heck of a lot more work ahead of me if they hadn't been so obliging with their information. Recommend checking them out for more details.
From locker pigtail to inside truck under the left rear seat:
Used Toyota# 82998-24180 to add a connection to the rr diff lock light that was in the gauge cluster. Red wire, pin 8.
And wiring continuing from connector under left rear seat to DPDT relay behind kick panel and separate sensor wire that connects directly to the end of the red wire pictured above:
12VDC/10A DPDT Relay
Radio Shack # 275-218
Quick disconnects female .187"
Conduct-Tite #85545
Repair pin
Toyota# 82998-24180
14g wire, heat shrink, solder, 'lectrical tape, junk like that.
Also, I found if I wrote what the wire pin number was on the heat shrink at the connectors and then shrunk it I could still read what I wrote. It's like shrinky dinks. Makes it easier to keep track of what wire goes to what.
Links to other people's hard work about 3 posts back. Would have had a heck of a lot more work ahead of me if they hadn't been so obliging with their information. Recommend checking them out for more details.
Last edited by habanero; 07-02-2017 at 06:00 PM.
#1885
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
The hubby used the 99 to trailer a Taurus (not ours) w/non-functioning tranny and the 96 to pull it off the trailer using the front hitch.
Last edited by habanero; 07-02-2017 at 06:00 PM.
#1886
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
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many thanks for taking the time to photograph and post yet another informative reference re: the ignition surround!
and great work on the rear locker, it has progressed nicely!
and great work on the rear locker, it has progressed nicely!
#1887
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks hrt4me! No problem on the ignition surround. The locker stuff is done and it's all buttoned up, now I just need to test it out. Oh darn.
Waiting on word from Mightymouse. I need a non-abs speed sensor to finish up my manual hub conversion.
NEED to figure out what tires. Had set on Goodyear Duratracs because of the more aggressive look but not mud-aggressive tread but they are proving difficult to find locally and people keep saying things about damaged sidewalls.
Urg.
Still gotta check out the Coopers HighLux mentioned. If the Michelin AT2 had a prettier sidewall I've been very happy with them. BFG A/T is supposedly coming out with a new design but not in time. The old BFGs are alright too, though on-road traction could be better. This is always a hard choice for me!
Waiting on word from Mightymouse. I need a non-abs speed sensor to finish up my manual hub conversion.
NEED to figure out what tires. Had set on Goodyear Duratracs because of the more aggressive look but not mud-aggressive tread but they are proving difficult to find locally and people keep saying things about damaged sidewalls.
Urg.
Still gotta check out the Coopers HighLux mentioned. If the Michelin AT2 had a prettier sidewall I've been very happy with them. BFG A/T is supposedly coming out with a new design but not in time. The old BFGs are alright too, though on-road traction could be better. This is always a hard choice for me!
#1888
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Location: Dallas, TX
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#1889
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Thread Starter
I really should get off my high horse, but I want my cake and eat it too.
#1890
Thanks hrt4me! No problem on the ignition surround. The locker stuff is done and it's all buttoned up, now I just need to test it out. Oh darn.
Waiting on word from Mightymouse. I need a non-abs speed sensor to finish up my manual hub conversion.
NEED to figure out what tires. Had set on Goodyear Duratracs because of the more aggressive look but not mud-aggressive tread but they are proving difficult to find locally and people keep saying things about damaged sidewalls.
Urg.
Still gotta check out the Coopers HighLux mentioned. If the Michelin AT2 had a prettier sidewall I've been very happy with them. BFG A/T is supposedly coming out with a new design but not in time. The old BFGs are alright too, though on-road traction could be better. This is always a hard choice for me!
Waiting on word from Mightymouse. I need a non-abs speed sensor to finish up my manual hub conversion.
NEED to figure out what tires. Had set on Goodyear Duratracs because of the more aggressive look but not mud-aggressive tread but they are proving difficult to find locally and people keep saying things about damaged sidewalls.
Urg.
Still gotta check out the Coopers HighLux mentioned. If the Michelin AT2 had a prettier sidewall I've been very happy with them. BFG A/T is supposedly coming out with a new design but not in time. The old BFGs are alright too, though on-road traction could be better. This is always a hard choice for me!
Jeep got traded in this spring with about 20k on the tires, showed almost no wear (275/70R18). My F250 is still wearing them, almost 60k later and they do look pretty worn (295/65/R18). Still penny-legal though.
No sidewall issues in either case.
THE BEST packed snow and ice tire by popular vote in Fairbanks, AK. I drove almost all winter straight in 2WD. Only had to go to 4WD to get up the driveway during breakup when stuff would thaw all day then freeze back over at night.
Just my 2 cents.
#1891
I should also mention, when the tires on her new 4Runner wear out she'll be getting another set of Duratracs.
Same for my old 4Runner (didn't have it in AK otherwise it'd already be wearing them!)
They're expensive but worth it.
Same for my old 4Runner (didn't have it in AK otherwise it'd already be wearing them!)
They're expensive but worth it.
#1892
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Wow CamTom, thanks for the cents. I'd be happy with 60k, that's about where the Michelins are at now. A good set of tires are definitely worth the bucks.
#1893
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 262,xxx miles
New meats...
I don't know if I'll like them on pavement as well as teh Michelin A/T2. We'll see. I think they are pretty.
New meats...
I don't know if I'll like them on pavement as well as teh Michelin A/T2. We'll see. I think they are pretty.
Last edited by habanero; 07-02-2017 at 06:01 PM.
#1894
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 262,xxx miles
So. The Taurus is ded. It's going for a ride to that great car-heaven in the yard, poor whale. That's sad and all but I still stole the visors without regret.
The idea was to see if I could devise a way to use them to replace the worn-out too small visors in the 4Runner. I've done the driver side, gonna see how well it works out and if it does I'll do the passenger side next with pics. So far I am happy with the result.
There was part sharing, trimming and gluing involved.
And yes, ded. It's the only kind of dead a Taurus can be.
So. The Taurus is ded. It's going for a ride to that great car-heaven in the yard, poor whale. That's sad and all but I still stole the visors without regret.
The idea was to see if I could devise a way to use them to replace the worn-out too small visors in the 4Runner. I've done the driver side, gonna see how well it works out and if it does I'll do the passenger side next with pics. So far I am happy with the result.
There was part sharing, trimming and gluing involved.
And yes, ded. It's the only kind of dead a Taurus can be.
Last edited by habanero; 07-02-2017 at 06:01 PM.
#1898
Registered User
The younger daughter's Taurus suffered a complete trans failure. It didn't seem like the investment in time and effort to replace it was worth it. So it has been replaced with a '94 V6 Camry. Found it cheap on CL, $950 with very light front end damage.
I didn't take a before pic, but it had yellowed headlights with broken mounts that let them flop around, a missing grille, and the hood was sitting about 3 inches up from where it should have been. Here's the hood, taken off:
A few choice pick and pull parts and it's looking a lot better:
It has 150K miles and I figure it will last her a pretty good long while.
I didn't take a before pic, but it had yellowed headlights with broken mounts that let them flop around, a missing grille, and the hood was sitting about 3 inches up from where it should have been. Here's the hood, taken off:
A few choice pick and pull parts and it's looking a lot better:
It has 150K miles and I figure it will last her a pretty good long while.
#1900
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Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
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The Camry does look nice.
I'm always amazed how you are able to get parts of the right colors from the pick-n-pull. I'd never have that type of luck.
I'm always amazed how you are able to get parts of the right colors from the pick-n-pull. I'd never have that type of luck.
Last edited by rworegon; 05-28-2014 at 05:02 PM.