When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hab, i enjoy your write ups, you should consider compiling a how-to manual or even dvd's
Yeah, really. You can call it Habanero's How-To's : What the FSM really means!
Got a giggle (sort of) out of your clown face gasket description. That was right on. However, it is kind of creepy, ain't it? Now I'll have to sleep with the light on, and 12 ga therapy stick near the bed! haha
Transmission mount replaced
Part number for both the 96 and the 99 MANUAL TRANS 3.4 4x are the same, Toyota 12371-62110
Dunno if auto trans or 2x or 2.7 or whatall is the same or different or what.
Skid is still off from the timing belt job in anticipation of this repair (and the oil changes).
Used the tranny jack and a couple of jacks to get the tranny up out of the way far enough to pull out the old and put in the new. Didn't bother to remove the cross member. I do have a 1" body lift so that may have helped in that regard.
Nasty old mount. There are 4 bolts with 12mm heads holding the mount to the cross member. I set up the tranny jack so it was lightly supporting the tranny and removed those 4 bolts.
Looking at those 4 bolts from the underside of the cross member.
There are 2 bolts on either side of the tranny with 14mm heads. I was able to get the ones on the driveshaft side without removing the driveshaft, using a wrench and some patience. Other side is a little more accessible. Remember the transmission is on a jack and secure (plus I've still got the cross member there). Do not mess with or worry about the bolt in the middle of the mount.
Lift the secured tranny high enough to remove the old mount. The center part simply sits in a hole in the cross member and is not secured to anything. All you have to do is clear the hole. Refer to the pic of the new mount- that white plastic part is what sits in the cross member.
Here's the new mount installed. You can see where it bolts to the tranny. The short side is on the left (driver) and the long therefore is on the right (passenger). The hubby quickly deduced that it is easiest to start the bolts on the driveshaft side (he was replacing the mount on the 99 while I was working on the 96). I did the same, then the bolts on the cross member and lastly the ones on the right side of the tranny- everything loose enough for some wiggle room. The trans jack came in handy here, lowering or raising the tranny as needed.
Here's a comparison of new vs old mount (you can see the white plastic nut- has metal insert- that fits down into the hole in the cross member). You can also see that the old one is somewhat messed up squashed flat-ish broken shafted split plastic nutted.
All that was the old mount. Guess it was time.
The top part of the mount in the 99 simply had separated from the rubber, but was still all held together by the non-broken middle bolt assembly.
For anybody who cares or might want to know.... I have a speed sender out of (I think 97 Tacoma without ABS) for my speedo rather than the ABS as our truck usually go by.
Here it is:
Near the front of the rear drive shaft, where 4Runners usually have a metal plug:
Sure would have been nice if they would have given you an access to that plastic nut. You'd have only had to lift the tranny up a quarter inch to get it out. Kind of like that stupid rear mount on the front diff. There wouldn't be anything to it if they had let you pull a bolt out the bottom rather than a nut off of a stud.
Agree with you, Charchee, I HATED that front diff's rear mount! If it makes you feel any better this job is not as tight as getting the front diff in (or out), with some room above the tranny to maneuver. Another thing that could work is securing the tranny and dropping the cross member after removing the 4 bolts holding the mount to the tranny or the 4 holding the mount to the member. You'd want to be able to move the tranny some, but not as much as you would leaving the cross member in. The way I did it wasn't bad, dunno if the body lift factored in much. I didn't get as high as the tunnel.
4 bolts for the cross member, IIRC.
Now I'm asking myself , 'Self, should I take a stronger gander at the motor mounts or just cover my eyes and go la la la la la?'
Also, nice work on the dreaded windshield rust on your 89. Poor glass guys had to put up with me staring at what they were doing, so paranoid about rust there. Certainly went with a very reputable place. So cool you get to join in and see how your glass people work.
How do you find the shift quality is using 80W-90 GL-5 in the manual tranny? A lot of people like the synthetic GL-4s like Amsoil or Redline.
Don't really have anything to compare to, RustBucket, as I haven't had anything else in it. IIRC Chuckles89 put some fancy sauce in his manual trans 3rd gen and was pleased with the results.
I may have to try it sometime....
If he's still keeping an eye on this thread maybe he'll chime in, or he has a build thread over on T4R.
The hubby finished up the valve cover gaskets on the 99 this evening other than plug wires that are coming tomorrow (NGK te66 or #4412, Amazon, $26.78). Everything else is Toyota.
Don't really have anything to compare to, RustBucket, as I haven't had anything else in it. IIRC Chuckles89 put some fancy sauce in his manual trans 3rd gen and was pleased with the results.
I may have to try it sometime....
If he's still keeping an eye on this thread maybe he'll chime in, or he has a build thread over on T4R.
Well, I ran Valvoline synthetic 75W-90 Gl4/5 for a year and when I changed the oil a year and a half later, a bunch of brass looking particles came out with the old oil. Then, when I put new oil in, it grinded 2nd and 3rd.
I switched it out for GL-4 redline and it shifts a whole lot better. Still grinds 2nd and 3rd if I don't wait for the gears to spin down first.
IDK if it was the oil that caused it or just my old transmission....
Agree with you, Charchee, I HATED that front diff's rear mount! If it makes you feel any better this job is not as tight as getting the front diff in (or out), with some room above the tranny to maneuver. Another thing that could work is securing the tranny and dropping the cross member after removing the 4 bolts holding the mount to the tranny or the 4 holding the mount to the member. You'd want to be able to move the tranny some, but not as much as you would leaving the cross member in. The way I did it wasn't bad, dunno if the body lift
I recently fixed mine so the front diff is way easier to get out now
Well, I ran Valvoline synthetic 75W-90 Gl4/5 for a year and when I changed the oil a year and a half later, a bunch of brass looking particles came out with the old oil. Then, when I put new oil in, it grinded 2nd and 3rd.
I switched it out for GL-4 redline and it shifts a whole lot better. Still grinds 2nd and 3rd if I don't wait for the gears to spin down first.
IDK if it was the oil that caused it or just my old transmission....
Thanks for the update!
Originally Posted by dropzone
I recently fixed mine so the front diff is way easier to get out now:hillbill"
I'd say you're just -ing us, but in your shoes we'd all be doing the same darn thing!
I've used Redline and Amsoil GL-4's in a few Toyota MT's and both products shift really good. It is expensive sauce for sure but not so bad. Sometimes Amazon has Redline MT90 for about $15 per quart.
How are you surviving the Flash Floods? We are getting plenty down here.
You mean in my basement?
It's pouring. Again. Lucky we live on a hillside so other than a river running through the yard (and basement) we're in pretty good shape. Hope you're staying somewhat dry as well!
Hubby finished his valve cover gaskets/ plugs/ wires/ IAC cleaning job in between rains so that's a positive.
Aaaand it's raining again. A lot of the highways south and west of us are closed and traffic's getting a bit messier than usual. We are lucky and dry enough, best wishes to those who are not, including friends and family.
Hubby's got a wild hair. Seems it's front bumper time. Both our bumpers are tweaked from wheeling and mine is starting to get little tiny rust holes. That's good justification, right?
Have been talking to Adam over at 4xInnovations for awhile now (he's being very patient!) and the hubby knows what he wants but I'm having a bit more trouble deciding. We'll both have front hitch receivers so we can use the portable winch where needed but I'm trying to decide on either a clean plain bumper or bumper with grille guard. Mostly because I have to remove the left headlight to change the bulb I'm not considering headlight hoops. I like the grille guards at an angle (not sure what degree) from the truck. Might look a little poser-y on my daily driver...
Other than that messing around with another small mod though I don't have any idea what direction it'll take yet, or even if it'll go anywhere at all. Also studying and preparing to swap to the newer style maf, just to see how and if it'll work. I'll be able to swap back if it doesn't work out, re-pinning the plug won't be hard. Apparently this mod isn't always all that successful. Doing it before my maf fails and trying the head scratching now is the goal, the newer style maf is way cheaper. http://www.ttora.com/forum/250-late-...f-upgrade.html
Can't wait to see what you decide on for your bumper, I like the look of a center hoop, but I have to admit trying to work around it can be a bit of a pain.
04-21-2017, 10:23 AM
-ing us, but in your shoes we'd all be doing the same darn thing! 
I have a lot of reading to catch up on!
