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Exactly! I've been watching the junkyard for years for a grey or blue-grey driver's belt that works or is at least not frayed without luck. I've also cleaned the old one before but that didn't really help either. Finally bit the bullet on getting the new one, believe me, I winced at the price! Thank goodness I don't have the newer style 3rd gen belts, nearly $270 shipped! That does include a $40 hazmat charge I didn't have to deal with.
no price for safety though...i didn't even think of looking for new ones...
the search begins
The only way ive been able to clean the belts in the past is by spraying them with wd40, weird i know, my dad used to do it on old cars. Something about the fish oil in it activating the old stains and oilss and then hit them with a hotsy or a pressure washer
no price for safety though...i didn't even think of looking for new ones...
the search begins
Sorry? Agree, safety wins. Besides, the windshield is almost new, it would look terrible with my body hanging out of it!
The old belt actually did everything it was supposed to except retract and it was starting to fray pretty bad in a few places.
You've prolly already figured it out. If not try this number:
73220-35022-B0 Not sure if that's it or the right color, but it's a start. EB Toyota's price not including shipping (their shipping might be high, especially as it's across country for you) is $136.41.
Originally Posted by flg8r22
The only way ive been able to clean the belts in the past is by spraying them with wd40, weird i know, my dad used to do it on old cars. Something about the fish oil in it activating the old stains and oilss and then hit them with a hotsy or a pressure washer
That does sound weird. Hey, if it works....I'll have to find some time to try it on the old belt just because curiosity.
Finally found a 3.4 throttle body off a 98 4Runner. Never been opened (paint markers on screws all intact). Cleaned it all up including the IAC, swapped the TPS over and my cruise control cable bracket because the new one was rusty. Running brilliantly, not even the expected high idle you'll sometimes get after cleaning the IAC.
I replaced it because the original one had gotten a bit of a groove in the barrel where the butterfly hits it and it also kept sticking slightly open. I had done the washer mod that re-centers the butterfly awhile ago which had helped for a long time but it's back to sticking- about a 1200 rpm at idle- instead of the regular 800 rpm.
After the eggs are done boiling I'm going to try to figure out why the clinometer lights suddenly stopped working. The suddeness makes me suspect a wiring issue, two bulbs going out at the same time would be rare. Get out the tester....
Husband is putting a Marlin clutch in the 99. He also had to replace the rear main seal, it was slightly leaking.
I enjoyed catching up on your investigative work and what you are getting done. I have about 50% chance on the seat belt retractors and the speedometers. They look easy when into them but can be finicky. I am planning a trip to Buddys Salvage in Springfield in the next month. It is 105 miles for me to go there but he does have a great selection of parts. I know it is further for you to go there but just in case you have a tough time finding some parts. I can let you know what he has next time I am up that way.
Cool Terry, thanks for the offer and the compliment. There are more and more 3rd gens in the yards as the years go by, but they get picked clean fast. Usually I just have a don't really need but will nab if I see it list. You never know what project I'm going to get up to next and neither do I.
I am kinda keeping an eye out for a set of spindles with manual hubs (and speed sensor if it doesn't have abs) off a 96+ taco and for an elocker motor in decent shape, just the e-locker itself. Neither of those is things I've got to have so I'm looking for a deal. I know a guy around here (mightymouse!) that is an amazing source for parts if my vague wants become actual needs. Really good dude.
Husband reports that the Marlin Clutch feels decent and not too stiff. Of the shifter bushings the old transfer case bushing looked like tiny granules, like the 96's did, and the transmission shifter bushing looked pretty good, a lot better than the 96's. His old throwout bearing was definitely a good thing to replace and the rear main seal was wet so got replaced too. He also needs to replace his tranny mount.
I never did figure out why the clinometer lights stopped working. Bulbs were good, power at all the connectors...everything looked copacetic. Put it all back together and everything's working again. Kinda wondering about the off switch in the unit itself but for now it's all good.
Also found a 12mm hex bit socket at auto zone while we were renting a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer so will finally be doing my fluid changing. Incidentally Auto Zone's puller is too big for our pilot bearings- unless you use only one of the two arms. The hubby used a hex wrench to take up the extra space and it worked. Just a note for others with the same issue.
Listened to Toyota Trucks and Trails podcast episodes #31 and 32 with the husband while we worked on our projects. As usual we really enjoyed the info and banter. Lots of information but in a relaxed atmosphere. I find myself taking mental notes (which I always seem to lose), nodding about something or chuckling. Good good show and while working on the truck is the best time to listen to it.
Should have taken pics of the IAC and throttle body how-tos but they are really simple. Two bolts and two nuts hold the throttle body to the upper intake. There's a metal gasket between them that I just re-use. There's a coolant hose on either side of the IAC and another large hose for the IAC as well. The TPS and IAC need to be unplugged. I also have to unplug the middle coil pack to slide the throttle body off. On the bottom of the throttle body is 4 screws for the IAC. Use a screwdriver that fits well to avoid stripping. There's a rubber gasket that looks like a clown face that you can either replace or possibly reuse. You can leave the IAC motor (2 screws covered in grey silicone) and the little plate that is the other end of the IAC shaft (2 tiny screws) alone. The TPS is held on by two screws that like to strip. I changed mine out for ones with a hex head. The only reason to take that off is to change it. Pretty much plug and play. Put it on over the shaft. Test the butterfly. If it can't move you've done it wrong. I don't have torque specs for this stuff but it's all going to be pretty light.
Okay, I'm done for now. Have a good night and let me know if anyone wants pics, the old throttle body is sitting on the kitchen floor ready for whatever you want a pic of.
Did you have any camber issuses in the front when you did the lift? I put Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustables on my 99 and the front tires V'ed in ward a little. Anything I can do to get rid of that?
Did you have any camber issuses in the front when you did the lift? I put Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustables on my 99 and the front tires V'ed in ward a little. Anything I can do to get rid of that?
If you actually changed the ride height with just the shocks then you are going to have a camber change. Give it a few days to settle in and if you still see the camber change, you are going to have to adjust it out. I've done it myself on my 89 that I drive 1000 miles a year or less but if you drive it regularly, I'd leave that to a shop with a computer alignment setup.
On another note, since so many folks follow this thread and, like me, try to keep up with the legendary Habanero, I've found a good parts donor vehicle in Memphis. Been tempted to go up there and get it but I've already procured most of my wanted components from my last parts truck purchase. It's a 97 4Runner 4WD SR5 with a bad motor. Not sure if it's got an e-locker but it has the black plastic fender flares. In my past parts hunts, that's been a sign of one that is likely to have it. Check craigslist. It's listed in the Memphis ad and is located in Germantown. The ad says $700 or so but a buddy of mine sent me a facebook ad for the same truck for $500. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone who might be hunting some 3rd gen parts.
Did you have any camber issuses in the front when you did the lift? I put Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustables on my 99 and the front tires V'ed in ward a little. Anything I can do to get rid of that?
Hi Mathew C. So long as my other suspension parts are in good shape the trucks align pretty well and I get a decent wear pattern on the tires.
Since I have the Sonoran Steel 1.2 I go with his recommendation via his website: Alternate alignment settings if the shop performing your alignment can not hit the factory specs.
Then set the camber to zero and the toe to .04 degrees.
I'm no alignment guru and Steve at Sonoran's tip is based on his lift kits so keep that in mind!
Read what Charchee wrote too and which level did you put the spring perch on?
Originally Posted by Charchee
If you actually changed the ride height with just the shocks then you are going to have a camber change. Give it a few days to settle in and if you still see the camber change, you are going to have to adjust it out. I've done it myself on my 89 that I drive 1000 miles a year or less but if you drive it regularly, I'd leave that to a shop with a computer alignment setup.
On another note, since so many folks follow this thread and, like me, try to keep up with the legendary Habanero, I've found a good parts donor vehicle in Memphis. Been tempted to go up there and get it but I've already procured most of my wanted components from my last parts truck purchase. It's a 97 4Runner 4WD SR5 with a bad motor. Not sure if it's got an e-locker but it has the black plastic fender flares. In my past parts hunts, that's been a sign of one that is likely to have it. Check craigslist. It's listed in the Memphis ad and is located in Germantown. The ad says $700 or so but a buddy of mine sent me a facebook ad for the same truck for $500. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone who might be hunting some 3rd gen parts.
You are too nice Charchee! Don't let my husband see that about the 97! Anything we get around here that's a bargain is gone very very quickly.
Hmmmm, the kid will be driving in just a hair over a year from now...
It's not like me to turn down a $500 1st or 3rd gen but the wife isn't always thrilled. She thinks I pay more attention to my latest treasure than I do to my chores. She never says anything but I know what she's thinking and she's right. You just can't beat'em though. I buy one, take all of the good stuff for spare parts or upgrades, sell a few odds and ends for little of nothing or just give them to folks on Yotatech and then scrap the skeleton. They pay for themselves several times over. I wish I could make a living doing it.
I see you're in MO. I keep an eye on the Fayetteville ads. Next time I see one up that way, I'll let you know.
Cool, Charchee. My husband is always sending me cool, weird and oddball stuff. I don't even bother looking. Like 5 cars isn't enough to deal with? Some of them, though, so hard to not try to figure out where it could fit in the driveway! Chores? What's those?
A few notes on the throttle body. Since someone asked about how to replace the throttle position sensor:
As you're facing the throttle body (this can be done on the truck) you'll see the tps on the far left. It's the black thing to the left of the vacuum line in the pic. Unplug it.
There are two screws holding it on. Remove them, careful not to strip the heads. I actually replaced these with allen head bolts on my other throttle body.
Here is the throttle body with the tps removed. There's the shaft for the butterfly. Don't mess with that stuff. The new tps will fit over that shaft.
There's only 2 ways to put the new sensor on and only one of those ways will allow the butterfly to open. Here's the tps sitting on the shaft. The plug side will be facing towards the right (passenger) fender.
Once it's on twist to check that it's on right. If there's very little travel try it again. You could also open the butterfly instead. If it won't move much it's not right. There's only two ways to put the tps on with the plug facing the right fender. Line up the bolt holes and bolt to throttle body. This is aluminum- be careful not to over tighten! There is a slight ability to adjust the tps via those screws but I just line up the holes as they were originally then tighten down.
I'm not going to get into how to actually adjust the tps as I haven't done it. Yet. It involves another screw below the tps for the vacuum stop and a .43mm thickness gauge.
On the truck-
Remove the intake hose and vacuum line Remove the throttle and cruise cables from their brackets (move throttle until the cable you're removing is loose, the end can then be maneuvered out and freed. Loosen the cruise control cable to remove from the bracket.
There are 3 hoses under the throttle body. 2 are coolant lines and have hose clamps, the closer larger one goes back to the intake and just pulls off. The coolant line will likely leak a little coolant when removed. Just so you know.
There are two bolts and two nuts holding the throttle body on, you can see 3 of them in the pic, surrounding the barrel. They are 12mm. Unbolt them and slide the TB off. You may have to unplug the middle coilpack to clear the iac motor. There is a metal gasket
between upper intake and TB. It can hang there and look cute.
Here's the valve you want to be free to move. They get gunked up sometimes.
So get the gunk out. Make sure all is moving freely. Clean up the mating surfaces, put the gasket in, put it together and bolt back together. With all things gasket I like to use a pattern to try to get the thing bolted on evenly. Again, aluminum, don't overtighten, but you don't want them to fall out either.
Be aware that high idle can be an issue after cleaning while the computer adjusts. Removing the batt cable or pulling the fuse to reset it has been often recommended. Mine worked fine after.
Changed all the oils
When I do the diffs, transmission and transfer case I ALWAYS make sure to loosen the FILL plug FIRST. Once that pops loose I go ahead and loosen the drain plug. I want to know for certain refilling isn't going to be an issue BEFORE the oil gets drained out.
Also, these work just like an oil plug. Once it pops loose it's loose. Always start by hand (of course), don't over tighten. You don't want it to fall out but you don't want to strip threads, either.
My favorite tool for this job is the Lincoln Suction Gun my husband bought from me nearly 19 years ago when he was trying to find an excuse to stop by my work. HE says he just needed one but we all know the truth.
Also, he actually needed one.
And, apparently, so did I. So I married him and now I have one.
Rear differential with e-locker, 4wd
2.7 quarts
80w90 Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
Both drain and fill plugs are 24mm. Drain plug has a magnet. One is halfway up the back of the pumpkin, the other is at the bottom and just off to the left (driver) with a protective raised lip around it.
A few tiny metal flakes on the magnet, easier to feel than see, could have come from when I busted the ring and pinion gears though I vacuumed, ran rags through, vacuumed, did more cleaning than I know what to do with when I swapped 3rd members. Had weird blues and greens in the oil.
Front differential w/ A.D.D. 4wd
1.2 quarts
75w90 Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 (I used 80w90)
Drain plug is a 12mm Hex bit (allen style) and has a magnet, located at the bottom most part on the right (passenger) side. Fill plug is a 10mm hex bit and is located towards the front. Dirt often fills the hex and makes the fill plug hard to find.
My old front diff had a regular drain plug and 10mm hex fill.
Just a sparkly blob on the magnet, no flakes or chunks.
Manual Transmission 4wd 5VZ-FE
2.3 quarts
75w90 multipurpose gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5 (I used 80w90 GL-5)
Both the drain plug (right, passenger side) and the fill plug (left, driver's side, opposite the drain but several inches higher up on the tranny) are 24mm
Weird brown color, like a hershey bar got melted in there. Not milky looking, just chocolatey. Doesn't smell weird at all.
Transfer Case
1.1 quarts
75w90 multipurpose gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5 (I used 80w90 GL-5)
Both are towards the rear, easy to access, both are 24mm
Was the cleanest of the oils and it's been in there the longest.
Engine oil, 5VZ-FE
5.5 quarts
I use a Toyota v8 4Runner filter
5w30
14mm drain plug
Oil filter location is so stupid I can't believe it's not butter.
^ going for mod-friendly descriptor here
That's a big 10-4 on loosening the fill plug first. When I first brought home my 1st gen, I set out to change all the fluids. Pulled the drain plug on the tranny so it could be draining while i pulled the fill plug. The plugs have kind of a shoulder around the hex sides and then are recessed in the middle. My 12pt socket wasn't on snug and two of the shoulders actually broke off leaving me with something worse than a rounded off bolt head. On top of that, it was seized up in there as bad as they come. Every attempt to get it out only made it worse. As a last resort, I heated it up to nearly red and then sprayed it with an upside down can of freon. (This is not a recommended tactic), but I didn't even know if the truck was worth keeping at the time and I was desperate. That did the trick and a good pair of channel locks got it out. Took a week of trying something, thinking about it at work for the day and then trying something else to teach me a super important lesson. I will never make that mistake again. Traded out those old drain plugs for some stainless heavy duty plugs with 19mm heads. All better now.
Have seen that pretty often Charchee, is why I've emphasized fill then drain plugs.
I can see why your described plug removal of desperation method is not recommended, but I'll give you the creativity angle.
Hahaha, thanks flg8r22, I'll just keep subjecting you all to my silliness. I do enjoy throwing curiosities and my particular brand of info at people who like a little entertainment.
Expecting a pair of trans mounts and one o-ring tomorrow. Also 800 tons of rain. One trail build already has been cancelled so we signed up for a different one but it's not looking good.
04-09-2017, 09:58 AM
Sorry? Agree, safety wins. Besides, the windshield is almost new, it would look terrible with my body hanging out of it!
