habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#2781
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
I think I am going to mount it inside. If there is a fire or something I will have to get inside to pop the hood anyway.
I wish i had the stuff to make the cables, I might be able to find some wire in the recycle bins as work, lot of electrical remodeling going on.
Thanks for the info on the racks. I just checked Craigslist with out any luck
Not a real high priority yet but in the mood to find one.
A friend of mine just scored this rack for his daughter's Cherokee off craigslist for $100, came with the tire mount and pioneer tools..
Pretty nice rack
Glad you got back with out having to use your spare. I have changed out valve stems before, having to break the bead to replace one is a PITA
i have considered a snap-in tire valve stem tool kit but they are kind of hard to find. But it would be nice not to have to pop a bead to replace a stem
I wish i had the stuff to make the cables, I might be able to find some wire in the recycle bins as work, lot of electrical remodeling going on.
Thanks for the info on the racks. I just checked Craigslist with out any luck
Not a real high priority yet but in the mood to find one.
A friend of mine just scored this rack for his daughter's Cherokee off craigslist for $100, came with the tire mount and pioneer tools..
Pretty nice rack
Glad you got back with out having to use your spare. I have changed out valve stems before, having to break the bead to replace one is a PITA
i have considered a snap-in tire valve stem tool kit but they are kind of hard to find. But it would be nice not to have to pop a bead to replace a stem
Your friend got an awesome score, and his daughter has a nice Cherokee, too.
I'll have to look into snap-in tire valve stem tool kits, thanks for something new to learn. I've only even broken beads on machines and the same goes for seating them-and it's been years. No firecrackers for me!
#2782
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Posts: 5,125
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The wheelin' looks awesomely fun too!
Last edited by rworegon; 03-27-2016 at 03:31 PM.
#2783
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Ah cool rw. Seems like there's always something getting in the way of the funs, isn't there? We had rain after 2pm so were able to check out the car show. Lots of good stuff though threat of rain kept lots away. I like the rat rods and amx, ih, some fords and military and oddball stuff. No good yotas this year.
Got the inclinometer wired up to the dimmer but, of course, need new bulbs. They look to be T1 1/2 sub-miniature wedge bulbs. I'll drop into the 'Zone and pick up a couple of 2723 (there's two in there) or similar tomorrow.
Got the inclinometer wired up to the dimmer but, of course, need new bulbs. They look to be T1 1/2 sub-miniature wedge bulbs. I'll drop into the 'Zone and pick up a couple of 2723 (there's two in there) or similar tomorrow.
Last edited by habanero; 03-28-2016 at 11:54 AM.
#2784
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 281,255 miles
Nothing spectacular. Oil change and I grabbed a sample for Blackstone labs while I was at it, for an oil analysis. Hopefully they tell me all is good and a slightly leaky head gasket worry turns out to be a slightly leaky brain problem.
It'd be nice to only have to do the valve cover gaskets. Thanks to rworegon for the idea and with 280+000 I don't think it'd be a waste either way to get a status report.
Also changed the drive belts. Easy peasy other than the one tensioner on the ps pump. That one would have been easier to get to had I taken the air box out, because of space restraints especially due to my coolant reservoir being attached to said box but it was manageable enough that I didn't bother. Having a ratcheting wrench helped a lot on that one. I did drop the skid to get to the a/c tensioner and that made it easier to do the alt tensioner. I suppose I should go take some pics of all those tensioners and post them up for the heck of it. Will do later.
I used Gates for the belts...got 72,000 miles out of the last set of Gates and they actually still looked pretty good with a only few cracks.
K040420 p/s
K040345 a/c
K040413 alt
Got my antenna spring on (Wilson 305311SS).
STILL need to work out my winch power cables but need even more to go for a bike ride! Have a great day everybody!
Nothing spectacular. Oil change and I grabbed a sample for Blackstone labs while I was at it, for an oil analysis. Hopefully they tell me all is good and a slightly leaky head gasket worry turns out to be a slightly leaky brain problem.
It'd be nice to only have to do the valve cover gaskets. Thanks to rworegon for the idea and with 280+000 I don't think it'd be a waste either way to get a status report.
Also changed the drive belts. Easy peasy other than the one tensioner on the ps pump. That one would have been easier to get to had I taken the air box out, because of space restraints especially due to my coolant reservoir being attached to said box but it was manageable enough that I didn't bother. Having a ratcheting wrench helped a lot on that one. I did drop the skid to get to the a/c tensioner and that made it easier to do the alt tensioner. I suppose I should go take some pics of all those tensioners and post them up for the heck of it. Will do later.
I used Gates for the belts...got 72,000 miles out of the last set of Gates and they actually still looked pretty good with a only few cracks.
K040420 p/s
K040345 a/c
K040413 alt
Got my antenna spring on (Wilson 305311SS).
STILL need to work out my winch power cables but need even more to go for a bike ride! Have a great day everybody!
#2786
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
#2787
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 281,xxx miles
Winch wiring has begun! I've got stuff routed to the front and rear and the solenoid and the switch. Had to modify the front cable that came with the winch, the negative cable is too long. The positive is a good length to reach the solenoid on the firewall. Just have some cable rub-spot protecting, a bit of finessing on the re-routing and one more cable to make. Giving myself a thumbs-up for putting in a negative buss when I installed the dual batteries, it's come in handy.
Took me a bit to figure out where to stick a new switch...all the blanks I have are taken, plus the 2 that were on the center part of the dash. Well, now there's 3:
Pardon the construction mess. Not perfect, but pretty close. It lights when it's on. The red one is for the winch power interrupt.
Still routing wires/cables and need to get it all clean and as neat as you can make a mess of spaghetti. Have to add one more cable- from the positive on the house battery to the solenoid.
The cable crimper rworegon said he has worked really great! Also got a cheap pair of cable cutters and some welding cable. So far so good. One of the Warn ring terminals actually came off (nice job, Warn ) so I had to put a new one on. Warn's one-sided crimp seems kinda pathetic? Still have to modify the connector at the winch to accept the Tuff Stuff connector. Doesn't look like it'll be a piece of cake, but not super hard, either.
Cable-
TEMCo Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable WC0106 - 100 ft Black 2 Gauge AWG | MADE IN USA - - Amazon.com
Shut-off solenoid (tried to find cheaper with the ratings, but couldn't, need one for each truck)
Amazon.com: WARN 63001 Replacement Solenoid: Automotive
Hydraulic crimping tool (I used the die labled #35)
TMS® 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11 Dies - - Amazon.com
Cable cutter (is working splendidly so far)
Jonard JIC-63050 High Leverage Cable Cutter with Red Handle, 9-1/4" Length: Wire Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
And terminals that fit the solenoid, the negative buss, and the military terminal on the battery.
Amazon.com : (10 pcs) 2 GAUGE 2 AWG X 3/8 in TINNED COPPER CABLE LUG BATTERY WELDING CABLE CONNECTOR TERMINAL : Boating Wire : Sports & Outdoors
And 2 anderson connectors, one for the rear of each truck. I'll have to buy another if the hubby decides to wire up the front of the 99 (like if we ever get front bumpers or they start making a front hitch for the 99s).
http://tuffstuff4x4.com/products/tuf...-2-gauge-wire/
I picked up the rocker switch local, from Auto Zone. Of course all the spare ones I had laying about were too big to fit.
About $320.00 for everything, or enough to do the rear of both trucks and the front of his minus one anderson connector. The Warn price for two rear kits is $350, and the front is $74, so for the same amount of Warn stuff would have been $424. Because of the reusable tools and some extra cable and parts I figure I'm ahead more that just the $100. I can use the tools and possibly some left-over cable to make a set of quick connect jumper cables. Would just have to buy another connector and some clamps.
For the front connector I made up a bracket out of aluminum so the connector peeks out the bumper valance, somewhat protected. The rear is going to be a little more of a challenge. The connector won't fit between tailgate and bumper and the tire carrier is in the way anyway. I don't want to put the connector on the underside of the bumper where it could get squashed. What I'm thinking is laying the connector behind the bumper on the inner side where it makes a sort of shelf and using a strong magnet to hold the connector in place. That way I can yank it off the magnet when needed to connect to the winch and it should stay secure until needed. If for some reason it does break free it won't dangle more than a foot and not hit the ground hopefully and also not get squashed before I notice it. Hopefully I'm right in my thinking that it won't be an issue.
All I know is this whole mess better not catch fire!
Still waiting on the oil analysis from Blackstone, but they only got the sample on the 6th.
That's the story for now, have a good night, y'all.
Winch wiring has begun! I've got stuff routed to the front and rear and the solenoid and the switch. Had to modify the front cable that came with the winch, the negative cable is too long. The positive is a good length to reach the solenoid on the firewall. Just have some cable rub-spot protecting, a bit of finessing on the re-routing and one more cable to make. Giving myself a thumbs-up for putting in a negative buss when I installed the dual batteries, it's come in handy.
Took me a bit to figure out where to stick a new switch...all the blanks I have are taken, plus the 2 that were on the center part of the dash. Well, now there's 3:
Pardon the construction mess. Not perfect, but pretty close. It lights when it's on. The red one is for the winch power interrupt.
Still routing wires/cables and need to get it all clean and as neat as you can make a mess of spaghetti. Have to add one more cable- from the positive on the house battery to the solenoid.
The cable crimper rworegon said he has worked really great! Also got a cheap pair of cable cutters and some welding cable. So far so good. One of the Warn ring terminals actually came off (nice job, Warn ) so I had to put a new one on. Warn's one-sided crimp seems kinda pathetic? Still have to modify the connector at the winch to accept the Tuff Stuff connector. Doesn't look like it'll be a piece of cake, but not super hard, either.
Cable-
TEMCo Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable WC0106 - 100 ft Black 2 Gauge AWG | MADE IN USA - - Amazon.com
Shut-off solenoid (tried to find cheaper with the ratings, but couldn't, need one for each truck)
Amazon.com: WARN 63001 Replacement Solenoid: Automotive
Hydraulic crimping tool (I used the die labled #35)
TMS® 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11 Dies - - Amazon.com
Cable cutter (is working splendidly so far)
Jonard JIC-63050 High Leverage Cable Cutter with Red Handle, 9-1/4" Length: Wire Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
And terminals that fit the solenoid, the negative buss, and the military terminal on the battery.
Amazon.com : (10 pcs) 2 GAUGE 2 AWG X 3/8 in TINNED COPPER CABLE LUG BATTERY WELDING CABLE CONNECTOR TERMINAL : Boating Wire : Sports & Outdoors
And 2 anderson connectors, one for the rear of each truck. I'll have to buy another if the hubby decides to wire up the front of the 99 (like if we ever get front bumpers or they start making a front hitch for the 99s).
http://tuffstuff4x4.com/products/tuf...-2-gauge-wire/
I picked up the rocker switch local, from Auto Zone. Of course all the spare ones I had laying about were too big to fit.
About $320.00 for everything, or enough to do the rear of both trucks and the front of his minus one anderson connector. The Warn price for two rear kits is $350, and the front is $74, so for the same amount of Warn stuff would have been $424. Because of the reusable tools and some extra cable and parts I figure I'm ahead more that just the $100. I can use the tools and possibly some left-over cable to make a set of quick connect jumper cables. Would just have to buy another connector and some clamps.
For the front connector I made up a bracket out of aluminum so the connector peeks out the bumper valance, somewhat protected. The rear is going to be a little more of a challenge. The connector won't fit between tailgate and bumper and the tire carrier is in the way anyway. I don't want to put the connector on the underside of the bumper where it could get squashed. What I'm thinking is laying the connector behind the bumper on the inner side where it makes a sort of shelf and using a strong magnet to hold the connector in place. That way I can yank it off the magnet when needed to connect to the winch and it should stay secure until needed. If for some reason it does break free it won't dangle more than a foot and not hit the ground hopefully and also not get squashed before I notice it. Hopefully I'm right in my thinking that it won't be an issue.
All I know is this whole mess better not catch fire!
Still waiting on the oil analysis from Blackstone, but they only got the sample on the 6th.
That's the story for now, have a good night, y'all.
Last edited by habanero; 07-01-2017 at 06:35 AM.
#2790
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
That truck o'mine better keep to being a non-smoker!
I so hope you're right, Jason! I am positively allergic to fire.
Got my oil analysis back this afternoon, will post up report tomorrow. Doesn't look too bad, for what little I know.
I so hope you're right, Jason! I am positively allergic to fire.
Got my oil analysis back this afternoon, will post up report tomorrow. Doesn't look too bad, for what little I know.
#2791
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
No head gasket for me to do! I'd rather be wrong about that than right.
Sounds like something is wearing (?) maybe a little more than normal but I'm not horrified by it.
So valve covers prolly after school's out (leaking). Will be replacing the knock sensor harness while I'm at it since it's cheap and they tend to get brittle and it'll be right there right there. Can't think of anything else I should do when I'm in there? Fuel injectors will also be right there right there, but they don't seem to be causing havoc of any sort.
Sounds like something is wearing (?) maybe a little more than normal but I'm not horrified by it.
So valve covers prolly after school's out (leaking). Will be replacing the knock sensor harness while I'm at it since it's cheap and they tend to get brittle and it'll be right there right there. Can't think of anything else I should do when I'm in there? Fuel injectors will also be right there right there, but they don't seem to be causing havoc of any sort.
Last edited by habanero; 07-01-2017 at 06:36 AM.
#2792
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Somebody asked for the wiring I used for the GM Horns so I made a diagram. Putting it here too, in case anybody wants it.
Last edited by habanero; 07-01-2017 at 06:36 AM.
#2793
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Posts: 5,125
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Hi!
Glad the crimper worked out for you. Mine's not used often but is handy.
Oil analysis looks good! Super to see no antifreeze in there.
Here's the thread where my oil analysis are posted as are a few from other members:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...35/index4.html
Maybe pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning?
Glad the crimper worked out for you. Mine's not used often but is handy.
Oil analysis looks good! Super to see no antifreeze in there.
Here's the thread where my oil analysis are posted as are a few from other members:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...35/index4.html
Maybe pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning?
Last edited by rworegon; 04-13-2016 at 07:10 PM.
#2795
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks rw, for those. Makes interesting reading. I was thinking about pulling the injectors too, at 281,xxx miles it wouldn't be a bad idea to at the very least put a volt meter on them. I'll have to look into sending them in, if I want to insure good spray pattern/ volume.
Last edited by habanero; 04-14-2016 at 04:59 AM.
#2796
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner, 281,xxx miles
Anderson connectors front and rear plus safety disconnect solenoid DONE! Got the winch working and the rope wound on it, may I never truly need it! Portable winch so it can be used on either truck.
Now somebody has to wire up the 99.
The winch came with a cable set for the front. While installing one of the connectors came off the end of one of the Warn-built cables. Nice one, Warn...
Here's Warn's very special crimp...
Anderson connectors front and rear plus safety disconnect solenoid DONE! Got the winch working and the rope wound on it, may I never truly need it! Portable winch so it can be used on either truck.
Now somebody has to wire up the 99.
The winch came with a cable set for the front. While installing one of the connectors came off the end of one of the Warn-built cables. Nice one, Warn...
Here's Warn's very special crimp...
Last edited by habanero; 07-01-2017 at 06:38 AM.
#2798
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
#2800
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Sorta like rolling down the side cargo area window?