Holy crap, how do you get these things out of the valve cover gasket?

Mine are old and cracked. I was checking valve clearance and decided to do them while the valve cover gasket was off.

Any ideas?

Once they're out, God knows how to get the new ones in.

Thanks.

 

Flip the cover upside down and working from the inside carefully collapse the gasket (opposite the tab) carefully using a screwdriver and hammer. Once it's collapsed a bit, you can generally pull it out with a needle-nose pliers.

To get it in, slip it under the tab (I never lift the tab up as the FSM recommends) and then carefully tap the gasket into place using a hammer and a socket or other tool that closely matches the diameter of the gasket.

 

This thread may help you out. A small discussion on replacing the spark plug tube gaskets using ones from Toyota dealer.

 

I bent the tabs up with needle nose plyers. Then just use a screw driver and hammer and carefully deform the old seals so you can get ahold of them with some plyers then just pull them out. Putting them in I used the correct size socket to tap them in. Be sure and put them in the correct way, then just use a punch to tap the tabs back down. I used a seal grease on the seals to help then go in easier.

 

All,

Thanks for all the replies and help. I finally got them out with a small adjustable crescent wrench. It was just the right angle and leverage and they just pried right out. I scarred the aluminum in a few places but not bad. I smoothed it out with some sandpaper.

I just bought a 33 mm socket at the parts store to drive the new ones in. I think I'll use the WD-40 trick. Once they're in then it's time to put it all back together.

So torque on the bolts? Anal retentive and use a torque wrench or just tight enough?

I just bought a torque wrench if you're wondering which way I tend to go when it comes to oil leaks.

48 in/lbs?

Thanks again all.

 

Oh, and Ultra Grey or Black?

What are the perks of each and why?

Thanks.

 

Okay, now I'm doubting my abilities. I've torqued all to 52 INCH/pounds and the metal mating surfaces of the valve cover and the cylinder head aren't even touching. Is this right? Shouldn't they be in contact with each other. What did I do wrong?

 

I'm referring to putting the valve cover back on. Sorry.

 

Gasket is nicely positioned on the head with no kinks?

I'm thinking, possibly, the gasket is not intended to be smashed flat and you may see a small gap.

 

Okay, then maybe I'm good. I guess that makes sense after all. It's not like it's under a lot of pressure in there.

So do you guys agree on 53 inch/pounds? ~4.5 foot/pounds?

Thanks all.

 

Its not supposed to smash the gasket. You will see the gasket after its tightened down. You may want to run the engine to warm the gasket and retorque.

53inch pounds is = 4.5ft pounds

12x54=4.5

But use an inch pound torque wrench.

 

Okay. I'll wait until tomorrow when I know the RTV is cured all the way, recheck torque, and warm it up. Then recheck again. I guess it would be good to check again in a week or so, huh?

God I hope this is leak proof. It would really be the cherry on top of having checked all my valve clearances and found them all in spec. A whole laundry list of things to do to the truck would end here. Then it's go fishing all summer.

 

All,

Thanks. It seems the gasket is in good working order. I was worried about the RTV locations but they seem to be fine for now. I plan to retorque tomorrow with the torque wrench to make sure. Not a terrible job. Sometimes I almost wish I could do some jobs again because it would be so damn easy the second time.

And what did people do before YotaTech?

 

Good question.