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Hello fellow Toyota friends, I’ve used these forums for countless bits of information and followed quite a few builds for many years, so I feel like you guys may like what I’ve got going on.
yes I’m well aware that I could’ve swapped something else in so please save it 🙄
94 xtra cab with an Autozone reman engine, Custom built turbo manifold and a mr2 intercooler I’m still trying to mount up, fleabay CT26 turbo, AEM340 pump and the SNP 750cc injectors which I found out are just Bosch fuel injectors with custom adapters on the top.
my original plan was to tweak the airflow meter and adjust fuel but some of my friends talked me into the LCE/ SNP haltech elite 750 with full harness.
I have yet to get the harness in my hands, but I’m hoping it’s everything I dreamed of because my current engine harness crumbles when you look at it wrong. (I would very much like some insight if anyone has installed this in their truck.)
I wholeheartedly don’t expect this engine to last long because I can’t get the wastegate to go 8psi so I have another engine to build with RET pistons.
I pulled the engine from a truck with 59,000 miles and didn’t really like how the bearings and crankshaft looked. So I’ll be working on polishing up the crankshaft since there’s no real grooves, thankfully the bearings sacrificed themselves.
sorry for the photo dump still learning how forums work 😅
Last edited by White5thgen; Mar 7, 2026 at 01:41 PM.
Just finishing up mine now. 200hp on 89 octane, 8psi, tuner wanted to go 14 psi but I don't see any point. Next up body work.
I just got my SNP innovations full harness kit with the haltech elite 750, got it laid out and preparing to do the install tomorrow. That is a nice setup you’ve got there! What type of coil setup/crank signal setup is that? Very cool!
Coils are LS truck, crank trigger is no longer made but that a Ford VR sensor on a 36-1 trigger, harmonic was machined to accept and welded on.
Cam is using the gutted dizzy.
I have to say this kit from LCE built by SNP is a very nice piece and was a breeze to install.
only thing I really felt was necessary was moving the intake air temp sensor to the charge pipe. The intake manifold was heat soaking the sensor and I was seeing 200+ degree intake temps all the time.
now I see just about 20* above ambient temp which isn’t bad for having the intercooler facing down.
My home made manifold keeps cracking (probably because we used cheap Chinese stainless)
my buddy who fabbed the manifold warned me not to use that material so here we are. Crack #4
though I have 650ish miles on the setup and the manifold is my only issue I’m pretty happy with how the truck drives. Amazing to use 5th and do 70+ effortlessly uphills!!
the underwood temps are pretty serious so I’m hoping this cheap blanket helps.
Last edited by White5thgen; Apr 22, 2026 at 03:35 PM.
Had three locations for the IAT, settled for in front of the TB.
Exhaust was sourced off of fleabay with 1/2 in steel head flange and turbo flange and gray cast iron fittings.
Functional Bosch flat response knock on stud at oe location.
42pph Bosch gen4 injectors.
ECU is in for self inflicted damage.
Factoid- my Accord 2.4L K24 makes 200hp NA, had to turbo this to make a little better.
Last edited by davefarr; Apr 25, 2026 at 10:20 AM.
Excellent progress, I wanted to turbo my truck but you know life happened……then I bought an STI and I’ll throw the go fast stuff at that but I usually link this dudes website on turbo threads just for fun, it’s old but has a lot of info on his set up. You may or may not get anything useful out of it
What do you have for a trans? Any concerns about driveline?
so far I’ve got 1200 miles and the rear Ujoint flange at the axle has started to oval and the joint is starting to move, currently under the knife to add fuel pressure sensor and still trying to come up with an idle air control setup so I’m adding the rear yoke into the list.
Very easy on these- 3/8in aluminum plate and trace each side- drill two holes.for air (directional) and two/threaded for mounting. The GM stepper is more difficult with this ecu and you have to be VERY careful about +- on the PWM wiring, the ecu has to go back due to this and be repaired.
Last edited by davefarr; May 16, 2026 at 11:57 AM.
Very easy on these- 3/8in aluminum plate and trace each side- drill two holes.for air (directional) and two/threaded for mounting. The GM stepper is more difficult with this ecu and you have to be VERY careful about +- on the PWM wiring, the ecu has to go back due to this and be repaired.
Here’s what I came up with before you replied (waiting for my ford IAC to come in the mail)
As far as I know the IAC is motorized in one direction and spring loaded in the other- there is a direction for air flow to help load the valve in the correct direction.