I paid $215.00 for a Lockright delvered but not including install.

I found a used E-locker for $500.00 and I had to have it regeared for $395.00. You still need a wiring harness $40.00. Then you have to build a control circuit $20.00. I still have to modify my axle housing.

Total $1000.00+

Here's a link to Mike Carters write up.



Andy

 

I'll chime in on my locker.

I run the Toyota (TRD) factory electric locker from a '97 4Runner Limited. I got it for $300 including shipping from a Tennesee junkyard I found through Car-Part.com

I spent $22 on components for my home made controller following Mike Carter's design. So I got a selectable locker for $322.

The install is well documented so I didn't bother writing one myself. It was a lot of work but none of the work required a great deal of skill, just patience.

I have heard testimony about the Lock-Right, not much of it was favorable. People say they are loud. The ratchet mechanism will occaisionally give off a loud bang and people will tell you your truck is busted. They say it will turn heads for the wrong reasons. On Ice or snow you never know when it will decide to lock and sent you into a potential spin.

 

I think you got a great deal. If you had 4.88 gears like I do it you would have had to more than double your cost as TRD dosen't come with 4.88 gears and the stock gears in a V6 third member are not compatible.

Did your E-locker come with the wiring harness? That's another $40.00 from dealer.

Andy

 

uhhuh jx. The design of the lockrite isnt a good one. I would hate to be in a technical situation with that diff. If you were on a steep incline where you need a soft touch and that diff decided to ratchet. It would be game over. (its not really ratcheting its basically slipping into notches repeatedly)
Im curious about something though. In canada everything that goes on the market has to go through an approval process where the product is tested over and over again in different real world situations to determine if its a safe product. Only until its proven safe will it be allowed to go on the market.(usually) I cant see that lockrite making it in Canada. It looks like an engineering accident waiting to happen. Does the U.S. have a similar testing facility ?

 

It came with enough of the harness to be able to splice on my own wires. I got about 8 inches of the factory harness and the plug end.

 

Zedex,

What's a better design then?

Chris

 

Has anyone installed a Lockright in the front axle of a 1998 or one with the same axle? If so, how does it drive when in 4wd and 2wd? How's the steering effected when in 4wd and 2wd? Any problems? Is the install as easy as the rear sounds like it is?

Chris

 

The Lock-Right replaces the spider gears, not the whole carrier, that is why it is weaker.

What it does is a common trait of all auto lockers. They click, bang, lock and unlock sometimes without any rhyme or reason. The Lock-Right and similar lockers have a reputation for clicking more, full Detroits less.

As for a Lock-Right in the front of a 98, it will click and ratchet in 2wd and steering will be heavy when it is under load. When I lock my front ARB in 2wd with the hubs locked, essentially what you would have, the wheel feels heavier, but not unbearably so.

In 4wd, steering will be tough, almost not an option.

 

Is it possible to put manual locking hubs on a 1998 that would prevent the locker from engaging in 2wd?

Chris

 

I had a lockrite in a '52 dodge m-37 that I ran mostly off-road with 18.5"x44"s, and I have to say I had no issues with it at all. It performed flawlessly. They have been bad-mouthed as being weak, but I have never heard of one breaking...anyone else?

The method of operation is basically like a ratchet. One wheel can turn faster than the other, but it delivers power to the wheel turning slower. Yes, they can hang up, and I wouldn't run one in the front on the street in winter for that reason...but otherwise, I wouldn't hesitate, unless I was building an all-out off-road rig with big tires and big HP, and even then, I would consider it...

Just my $.02.

John

 

E-locker is a great design imo. When you want to lock it you push a button and wait for it to engage. no surprises. When you dont want it like on the highway or in town. Push a button.
I think any locker that gives you the choice between full lock and differential is a good one.

 

Obviously either the e-locker or ARB are better designs, but they also cost 3-4 times what a lockright costs. They better be better for that kind of money. Are there any lockers in the same price range as the lockright that are better quality?

Chris

 

yup ravencr. You get what you pay for. I myself would sooner have a clutch limited slip diff. If it needs to slip it will but will slip smoothly. Not ratchet....There may be a way to put bigger springs in a limited slip or modify it so the slip pressure is higher. Not too shur.
My truck came with an e locker . It sure is nice. Absolutely silent. If you can find a used one of those you sure would be a happy camper.

 

i wanted to look for an elocker for myslef on car-parts.com.. what is it called.. i cant find locking differential anywhere in the drop down menu. thanks in advance

kelly

 

Okay, I'm going to describe my locker.... can someone try and tell me which one they think it is?

It auto locks/unlocks.

Every once in a while it will pop/lock.

It doesn't rachet, at least I never hear any clicking or feel it.

Wouldn't even know there was one on pavement, except for tight tight turns, sometimes during parking, and on occasion if I gas it during a turn it will engage. What I notice is a little chirping and sometimes a little bit of hop.

I have a gravel driveway. When I make a turn, the inside tire will chew up the gravel.

Is this a regular detroit locker? Just a little curious. I love my locker. I'm planning on getting a lockright for the front pretty soon.