I know its the ratcheting one and it's on full time. I would like some more info on this locker.

what's good about it?

what's bad about it

 

This should keep you entertained for a while:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

Happy reading...

 

Nice reading matterial.. i learned some stuff!

 

Yeah, I've killed the better part of a day reading different things on that website before...

 

I know how differentials work, just not the LockRite diffrential.

They're much cheaper than other lockers...

 

Hay man I might be able to tell you about it,

I got one in my Runner its a 92 same rearend as yours.

What do you want to know?

Yes its an automatic locker, it is not controllable by you like a elocker or a ARB.
But I like this feature- simple design, nothing external to fail.
It was very easy to install to, took about 2 hours with a buddy and that even includes beer breaks.
What is nice is that you dont have to mess with pinion depth or resetting up the gears like you would have to with a detroit.
Although Im not sure how a Tru-Trac installs.
Just a check of back-lash and you good to go.
The locker replaces the spider gears.

On road, yes it does have some corks, but you get used to it.
Nothing unreasonable. You might hear a clicking sounds when going around a turn slowly- and it might bind up a little when parking, again nothing bad.
When pulling out of a parking spot you might hear the rear tires chirp and squeel- not a big deal.
Once in a while it might have a slight amount of torques steer when accelerating hard- or you might feel it pop in or out.
But over all- I love it, I think all the little corks it has are cool makes it more noticable and gives you a reason to grin when you hear it.
Off-road there is no comparison- unbelieveable how much of a difference it makes. It is possible to do stuff in 2wd that you could only do in 4wd before.
I installed this a couple days before driving from Caliornia to Virginia - of course the testing grounds was Moab.
It was like a different truck, keeps moving forward even with tires off the ground or major weight shifts of the body.
Drop the tire pressure and its climb-like-you-dont-care !!!!
The only negative thing about it would be possibly on an exit ramp type situation on a slick surface, rain or snow, then you will feel the tendency for the rear end to break loose.
But as we all know we should be slowing down on slick surfaces anyway, and its really not that bad.
Just be aware that you have a locker in the back and it will take some getting used to.
Do it- BUY ONE !!!! THEY ARE ALOT OF FUN

 

Oh-ya good price to mine was $250 + gear lube and I replaced my rear axle seals while I was in there.

Good luck

 

theres the inspiration i need!

how hard would you say it was on the 1-10 scale? 10 being hardest of course.

is the locker still activated in reverse?

and what do you mean "and it might bind up a little when parking, again nothing bad."

thanks for any info

 

Well you have to take out the axle shafts, which means that you have to take apart your rear brakes. Remove the drive shaft, and then the 3rd member. Then dissasemble part of it, and follow the directions. The directions are good- and it would take a long time to explain evey steep. But 1-10 well because of all the steps and the importance of the install id say ahh.....6 i guess. You need a vise.
Yes it is locked in reverse, anytime both tires are turning at the same rate of speed or there is slippage between the tires the locker will be locked. On street surface it will unlock when making a turn.
It might bind up a little while parking, meaning that you might feel it a little poping or chirping. But really dont be overly concerned Im just trying to give you all senerios here.
Also thing to consider alot depends on tire pressure- you have to keep them the same for the axle with the locker.

Sorry if this is making less sense, HAHAHA

Its fun and definietly not a problem- one thing
If you have a wife or kids who drive the Runner the nyou need to properly educate them on this thing, thats who might get into trouble with it- not know how it works.

 

Here's another right up. https://www.truckperformance.com/inf..._pttext_2.html

That place also has good prices:
truckperformance.com . I didn't mean to imply that you didn't know how diff's worked, but clutch-type lockers are discussed on one of the links from that first page.

Hope this helps.

 

Here's where I bought mine:

National Drivetrain www.nationaldrivetrain.com
Lockright Toyota 8.0 Inch 4 pinion 2 piece case V6 & Turbo
$197.15
1620
Lockright Toyota 8.0 Inch 4 pinion 2 piece case V6 & Turbo

I paid $215.00 shipped.

Andy

 

So is the cheapest locker that can be bought for a 1998 4Runner?

Chris

 

Do you think a locker like that would also fit a 2001 4Runner? I would defenetly consider it with that price. I guess my spoiler would have to wait if i went that rout....

 

I think its the cheapest...but I dont know about 3rd Gen application.

 

1st, 2nd , and third gen v6's all have the same differentials and or third.

 

It sounds like the lockright is the best bang for the buck for sure, especially when compared to the Detroit Locker. How about the ease of install? It also sounds as if the lockright is easier there too? Is there any negatives to the Lockright in comparison to the detroit locker?

Chris

 

Well put DrtRunner. I wasn't thinking about buying a locker just yet, but now I want one, and I want a LockRite!

 

Im curious guys. Whats the cost differential between lets say the detroit,the toyota electric diff lock, and the lockrite? You say the lockrite is the cheapest. How much cheaper?

 

My Lock-Right was $250 +plus fluids and seals.

 

This Site has a listing of most of the different types of lockers available, although not all of these are available for Toyotas. Also, these aren't the best prices I have seen on some of them, just a good ball park. As far as the Toy E-Locker, Phong has a writeup on what he did to retro-fit it into his 4Runner. Matt (jx94148) also did a retro fit, and maybe one of them can chime in and talk about the cost of that one.

The bottom line is you can get a cluth-type limited slip or locker for around $200-250, not including install.