95_4X4Runner

I just installed this thing yesterday, and I must say I am most pleased. I bought it on eBay for $75.

The unit hooks up to both front power windows, which can be rolled up or down with 2 remote channels on your alarm. When it's running, I now have one-touch up and down for both front windows.

When I tap the down button on the remote, it cracks them about an inch, so the interior can vent all day. (weatherflectors rule!)

When within a couple hundred feet, I roll both front windows down all the way, which gets the majority of the wicked Georgia heat out before I have to jump in.

(A friend showed me a way to increase the range on car remotes, hold the tip under your chin, and transmit. It works.)

If anyone is interested, I'll share how I hooked it up.

Andrey

I have three of these modules in my 4Runner hooked to Viper 800 ESP alarm.

These modules are the neatest thing I have ever seen! I configured 530T so from my remote I can roll up or down only two front windows, only two rear windows, only the tailgate window or all 4 or 5 windows at once. I can also crank open any set of windows from my remote. But the best thing is that once I set the alarm, my doors lock up and windows roll up automatically, and after that front two crank down a little bit

-- Andrey

DuB

I have three of those modules as well, except I have the four passenger windows hooked together, and the sunroof and rear window linked. I should've put the rear window on a separate channel. The nice thing is that I get one touch open on the sunroof, but the one touch close doesn't work because it keeps going past close, and then slides up and vents. Does anyone know where the sensors that stop the sunroof are? I've been wishing to move the "end of track" sensor so that the sunroof can't pivot up to vent anymore. I have the sunroof deflector anyway, and when the sunroof is in the vent position, it makes a lot of noise.

95_4X4Runner, can you share how you hooked it up? I didn't do the installation on mine so I'm curious.

Cebby

I have a couple of 530's and have had nothing but problems. I honestly don't think its the equipment, but the installation. The units were smoked once, repaired and back in. If I depress my window lock button, all of my windows start rolling up and down at various rates - like my rig is possessed. It's such a hassle to get it scheduled and "fixed" that I've decided to rewire it this summer myself (I used to install alarms, just not this one )

Andrey

Cebby,

Are you using separate modules for each window? That's the only reason what I can think of why your windows will roll up at different rates. In my case only the rear window rolls down slowly simply because it is heavier than others and it uses its own module.

I hooked up my DEI 530Ts in the following order:

DEI 530T module 1: two front windows
DEI 530T module 2: two rear windows
DEI 530T module 3: rear window

DEI 529T module 1: sunroof

The reason I used 529T for sunroof is because it doesn't have express roll up & roll down feature, just only one way, and that way my sunroof stops when it closed without tilting. Another tricky part in hooking everything up is to use DEI alarm which has enough channels to control all of these toys. Currently, only Viper 800 ESP supports up to 8 channels out of the box.

I installed all of those myself, so if anybody has any questions as far as connecting or programming, dont' hesitate to ask.

-- Andrey

Cebby

Mine is the same, except the 529 or a 540 (not sure) is on the rear window. Nothing on the sunroof. I have a 550ESP. I can vent or roll down all the windows (lock/unlock together) and roll down the rear window (aux) and start it (aux/panic)

OneTrickToy

Here's a question.... I want to add the 530T to my Sidewinder 6000 ESP.... but I have one little hurdle.... make that a big one. I don't have the power windows..... Can I hook up the 530T to a pair of gerbils on running wheels???

j/k How much to get a set of motors, and how much retrofitting to get them to work? Do the manual and power windows use the same main gear? I've replaced window motors on my nissan....so I understand how they work, just don't know prices for Toyota conversions. I don't need all the wiring/switches. I plan on installing a pair of lighted rockers below the stereo, along with the locking buttons for the doors.

OneTrickToy

Has anyone added the 542T Range Extender Antenna? I'm a little disappointed by the range and curious if this does a good job. I'm also trying to figure out what I want to do with my dual zone prox. sensor. I installed the alarm on my 300ZX(T-tops), and now wondering if I want to spend the time calibrating and messing with the prox in a single cab pickup. Any cool suggestions? (I still kinda like warning the would-be-thief before he even decides to look inside)

Andrey

You can certainly add motors and all the wiring, but in my honest opinion it will be much cheaper just to buy a brand new car

-- Andrey

Andrey

In my personal exprience extended antenna wasn't worth it. From trying to arm/disarm the vehicle with extended antenna and without one the range was pretty much the same. It could have been the alarm itself, the remote, etc... but from two times I've tried in two different cars the difference was hardly noticeable.

-- Andrey

95_4X4Runner

I chose to install the unit inside the front door, against the recommendations of the manual. I used wire loom where possible, and sealed the connections on the unit with clear RTV to help keep moisture out. My reasoning is that I didn't want to extend 8 wires from the window wiring to inside the vehicle, this way, I only brought three conductors into the door (+12V, triggers for up/down from alarm)

For routing the wires, I straightened out a coat hanger, fished it inside from inside the door, through the factory loom, into the inside, then taped wires to it, and pulled it back through.

Note on removing the door panel: To get the handle out, remove the screw, and slide the handle forward about 1/4", then it'll come out (I bump the handle forward with the heel of my hand), then disconnect the actuator by unclipping the fastener, and the rod will come out. The rest of the removal is easy.

530T Harness #1 (Larger wires)

Red - 12V constant - fused inside the vehicle, and routed inside the door.

Black, Violet, Violet/Black ("/" indictates stripe color, black in this case) - Ground - Tied together and attached to 10mm nut on door.

Green - Find Blue/Yellow wire from window switch, cut and attach green wire to motor side

Blue - Find Blue/Green wire from window switch, cut, and attach blue wire to motor side

Green/Black - Find Red/Green wire from window switch, cut attach green/black to motor side

Blue/black - Find Red/black wire from window switch, cut, and attach blue/black to motor side

530T harness #2 (smaller wires)

Brown - attach to blue/green wire, switch side

White - attach to blue/yellow wire, switch side

Red/white - attach to alarm channel (negative input) for remote roll-down

Orange - attach to alarm channel for remote roll-up. (The manual recommends attaching to "ground when armed" output of alarm, but I chose to not do so, because I don't want the wear and tear of the windows rolling up every time I arm the alarm.)

Gray - didn't attach

Brown/black - attach to Red/black wire, switch side

White/black - attach to red/green wire, switch side.

When crimping wires, I use crimps for un-insulated butt connectors with my insulated butt connectors, because there's a tooth that crimps down on the barrel, and holds the wires in place really well. Insulated crimping pliers only smash the crimp into an oval, which makes the wires pull out easily.

Also, I bought one of those "Mitchell" CD's from eBay for $20 that has wiring diagrams in addition to other good stuff, highly recommended.

Use recommendations at your own risk.

asudan96Runner

Hey I have one of these if you want it. I didnt need it for my alarm.

$6 and its yours. (shipped)

Dan

jtree007

Old thraed but do any of ya'll remember how you connected the rear window to the 530t and there you found the wires? It is giving me alot of trubble for some reason

95_4X4Runner

Sorry, I have had no desire to hook up the back windows, they kind of suck anyways, and it'll probably be hard to calibrate the unit. To make the rear windows work easier, spray some silicon lube into the channels.

Duffdog

you could just wire up two relays like in the old days...before 530t's! you have to go directly to the motor wires in the tailgate ( have fun!! )-- or provide power to the switch which powers the motor.

T

jtree007

That is what I think I am going to do and then use the 530T on the windows... I dunno.... finishing it this afternoon if I have the time hopefully... need my Runner back

lee

is there a safety function where if youre lets say walking away and the button gets hit by accident and your windows roll down, they will within a period of time, roll up on their own?

Duffdog

hmmmm well...

the most common way to hook up a 530t is to hook up the orange 530t wire to ground-when-armed wire, so that when you arm the alarm, all the windows roll up on their own. then you could put the down function on channel 3 for window crack in the summer or ch 4 for window roll down for the rear window.

thats how i used to do it in the late 80's anyways.

T

nah2323

Digging this thread from the dead.. Where are you guys connecting these things? I have a 2000, any input is helpful.

profuse007

I usually attach window modulator inside the door panel. Splicing there is much easier than trying to splice at the kick.