Hey guys, I haven't posted for a while, but... I've had a clunking in my front end for quite some time (approx. 7 mos.)... I was pretty sure that it was my cv's. I didn't have the money to fix them until now (I finally sold my gix). About approximately 1 1/2 to 2 wks ago, I noticed a lot of grease flung all over my front driver's side wheel well (now it's obvious that it's my cv). Also, about 1 month and a half ago I started hearing kind of a binding/clunking sound on the front passenger side (also thinking cv). So, my question is this: When replacing the axles and boots... do I need to replace the bearings and everything? And where can I get the bearings?

I've already read some posts (i.e. lee's post about cv's) and where to get the axles and boots... I'm just concerned about everything else and how worn it may have become... I'm going to be fixing a lot of stuff on my truck and I want to start with the most annoying (sound wise and the fact that I haven't been able to wheel). Thanks for all your help

 

The new axles will come with new CV's and boots all together..., it's just a matter of swapping out the old with new, and alot of clean up (the grease) and you're good to go.

 

i've had to do it a couple of times now, i actully have to again this week. i hoping to get the old out and new in, in under 30 mins. i need man hubs now that i have BJ spacers but autozone will keep giving me free CVs so i think i will just stay good at swaping out CVs for now.

 

30 mins. is not bad at all! Do you pop the lower BJ and let the hub assembly swing out of your way, or do you pull the sway bar endlink and pull the axle from the outside-in while using a floor jack to raise/lower the lower "A" arm?

 

i wish i could do the boots myself......its 365 dollars for the labor, and all i need to do is replace my boots! alas, i would totally screw my truck up.

 

its not hat hard, i will try to do a write up on it this week. i leave everything in tact on the A arm and pull it for the diff side.

 

I've gotten good at it too! I have to pull the lower shock bolt for clearance and disconnect the sway bar link for flex and use the floor jack method. Not too bad last time.

 

Changing the boots requires a special tool to secure the clamp that goes around it. Thats what I heard. Or you can go chaeap and easy and go with heavy-duty hose clamps.

 

Well, I just ended up buying the whole left and right halfshafts... I didn't want to risk it seeing as how they've been so noisy for so long. I bought some Brand new Cardone ones off of cskauto.com $119/ each with a lifetime limited warranty... Not too bad...

 

Hey guys, I think that 4Crawler's already got a write up, with photos and all, over on his site...www.4Crawler.com..., that should be of some help to you.

 

No, no "special tool" required, unless a flathead screwdriver, pair of pliers (needlenose work best for me) and maybe a small hammer constitute "special tool" designations.

Don't by into the misleading stealership propaganda..., it's just "propaganda".

 

You should be able to completely skip the "lower shock bolt" and just run with the disconnecting the end link..., might shave some time off of the process for you too.

 

"$119/each"!!!!! That sounds a bit steep, "lifetime" or not.

FYI, you'll want to pick up about 6-8 cans of some "Brake Wash" and rags to clean up that mess that you've got going.

 

69.99 with an "no questions asked" lifetime warrenty at AutoZone.... oh and now that i have driven ~700 miles to Montana i noticed i lost the passenger side too. so BOTH CVs need to be replaced. i think its time to get some man. hubs.

 

Hm... Well, hopefully these cv's will last me like 185,000 like the old ones did. Thanks for the link 94x4.