awesome job man.... i know your still working on getting it runnign and reliable but what are your plans for suspension? u leaving ifs or are u sas? lookin good though

 

Good morning, Anybody know of a good reason for my injector not to be firing?

 

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...lem-i-had.html

Found this link, he had to fix his wiring harness to the injectors

 

I got my proportioning valve from Jegs yesterday, it seemspretty nice. I'm going to put off working on that for the time being & focus on this fuel injector problem. I have done a bunch of searching but haven't made a bunch of progress. I guess I that I am just going to have to take the upper intake off......again.....for the 3rd effin time . Not that the intake is that bad, it just all of the damn vacuum lines that drive me crazy. I have to work untill noon & then I hope to get that fixed. I just wish that I had a way to test the wiring with my ohm meter before I take it all part & put it back together, I don't want this to be a trial & error type thing.

 

I did manage to get the upper intake off yesterday before we had to take off for a family Easter egg hunt, the kids had a blast, even my 2 year old got a basket full of eggs. I pulled the wiring harness apart & the factory connections where fine??? I think the problem might be in the connector on the fuel injector it's self. I am really going to try hard to find a way to test. I have another Easter thing to go to today with the other side of the family, hope to get away for a while to work on it some more after that.

 

here's a funny twist of fate......


where does this go????

like you i can't for the life of me figure it out.

 

This should help u out. This thread helped me a lot when replacing my 22re. Page 23 all the way at the bottom https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...7/index23.html

 

I took the upper intake back off & tore the wiring harness all apart to check the factory injector wire splices & they where all fine? I put some solider & shrink wrap on them anyways. I rented a set of noid lights from O'reily's for $16 to test the wiring & that is when I found the real problem. The metal terminals inside of the plastic connector for cylinder # 3 where so loose that when I was plugging them together that instead of them locking in it was just pushing the wire out the back of the connector. Either way it was an easy fix & once I got it all back together it ran MUCH better. I just wish I could have figured that out without taking so much back apart. I still have a few small problems.....There is a pin hole in the radiator, I am going to put some crap (bars leak) in it tonight & hopfully that should stop it for a while at least. The Alternator in not charging for some reason, I'm going to go back over the wiring & be sure everything is tight. I'm not going to buy a new alternator, mine is easy & cheap enough ($5) to fix with just new brushes, but they will have to be ordered. Tonight I am going to work on the proportioning valve & brake lines, recheck the valves & take it for a test drive. Lots of little odds & ends left to tie up, I need to put the fuel tank skid back on, the front skid, front drive shaft ect.

 

Seemed a little unneeded to me but I put it back on anyways. The end with the single bolt hole goes against the block, right next to the timing cover & the other end points up a little towards to power steering pump.

 

Pleaseeeee do not put that goop in the rad...You just got done you really don't want to make a mess of it now. I got a rad I think for about $100.00 from Advanced Auto. Just replace it or drain and solder it or even get some of that goop you put on the outside of the rad to fix it for now. Just don't put stuff in the coolant.

 

I know that you are right but I need a real quick fix. I guess I could buy a radiator but if that are only $100, but I would preffer a cheap fix. It has been my goal for the last month & a half to make a wheeling trip april 9-11 with my local group......that's next weekend & I am out of time & money. I though about trying to put some JB weld on it? Any other ideas? It is only a small leak & I would just let it leak & keep re-filling it IF I knew I had a good temp gauge.

 

I'd try the JB or that 2 part epoxy stuff that turns to stone. Adding goop to the coolant would be the very last thing I'd do.

 

Alright, alright....I'll try the jb weld thing & hope it works. Thanks for talking me into a better fix.

 

I have another question...Checked & set my idle speed then put the jumper wire in the diagnostic ports to set the timing. When I put the jumper in it dropped my idle, do I set idle with the wire in or out? I had to go back & forth to get both idle speed & timing right, does the jumper wire have to come out everytime I set idle speed?

 

Set the timing with the jumper and set the idle without the jumper.

 

Yep! that's what I was thinking..thanks Lumpy! Means I get to go home & do it all over again. Yay for me!!

Picked up everything I need to install the proportioning valve after work on my lunch break, rented a double flare tool, got some 1/8" npt fittings & a short piece of brake line. Hope all of that goes well because I am just about ready to take this thing on a test drive!!

 

Good deal man, keep us posted!!!

 

A few handy links for the LSPV removal.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...nstall-187132/

post number 18

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f77/...runner-144572/

 

pic please if you could

 

thanks...that might just help.