So I spent some time this past weekend working on the code 52 knock sensor issue. The engine builder put a new knock sensor and harness in. I disconnected the harness and checked the wiring if back to the ecm for continuity and resistance and found nothing wrong. I bench tested my old knock sensor in my vice and found that it was putting out voltage so I went ahead a drilled the motor lifting hook and installed it there and the check engine light is gone. I called the engine builder and they are going to warranty their work so they are going to take it back down and put another knock sensor in it. Hopefully that cures it as it is not a small job.

 

Dropped off the 4Runner with the engine builder yota1 this weekend. They are going to go through the knock sensor and harness and fix the leaking rear cam caps. I have about 100 miles on the build and with my patched in knock sensor no check engine light. I am very happy with the build. On to the 63" Chevy spring swap.

 

Looks good. I didnt read everything, but do you have any plans to move the steering box forward any? That will help with your clearances a little

 

That would be my last resort, changing the front mount and longer shackles allows me to drive it. I still have to check full flex. I will probably throw a different pitman arm with less drop first before i move the box because of it being a pretty decent pain to move

 

If you buy a kit, its way easier than doing the SAS (I didnt buy the kit and its still easier). I would have moved it before I changed out the front hanger to be honest. I wish I could have moved mine further forward, but I moved it a little too far already. My drag link got into the harmonic balancer on my engine. I had to limit the up travel on the passenger side more than I would like.

 

Got the truck back from yota1 today. They fixed the knock sensor and I had them fix leaking cam caps. All is good and driving nicely. I just need to lift the rear to match now. On to the 63" Chevy spring swap.

 

Been away a while I guess. I have still been working on it though. I pulled the rear axle cut off all of the brackets with my new plasma cutter and then all of the frame parts that needed to go. I decided to go with rear disks after the ebrake cables are going to be too short. I'm also putting in a line lock to take its place. I rebuilt Chevy leaf springs off a Tahoe and got the ruff stuff swap kit. Probably another day of work and will have it all back together.

 

Better progress than I've made! I guess you could say I'm rebuilding mine vicariously through you all. LOL.

 

I just found a deal on an 8" arb high pinion front diff already geared with 4.88s. I guess I will be putting that up front and moving the elocker 4.88 diff to the rear axle

 

I've finally gotten back around to finishing this project. Ordered drive shafts this week, put the gas tank back in and bled the brakes. The rear is all done I just need to move my steering box forward to be able to drive again.

 

Progress!!! Always feels good to get back into it and make some progress

I have a question related to your rear suspension setup, I may have missed it earlier in your thread, was it purchased as a kit or are you fabricating it? Also, I want to change the shock setup on my nearly stock rear end, but I have springs. I found my shocks limiting travel by atleast 2 inches in both limits. Ofcourse this will also damage shocks.. but more importantly I feel like the stock spring and link system could give me a lot more articulation if I just change the shock layout.
So, what you (or anyone else reading) think about fabricating new shock mounts similar to what you have now but on stock linkage and springs?

 

The link arms especially the upper link arms on the stock coil spring 4 link is the primary limiting factor. Also, You want the lower link to be parallel to the ground as much as possible so the would mean dropping the mounting point lower which ends up hanging up on things off-road. You need longer links and to do that you could go three link with a torque arm and panhard bar. You can't stay four link without moving the gas tank. Either way coil overs and the link kits will cost you some money. The money is what made me go leaf spring swap. I bought the 63" Chevy simple swap kit from ruff stuff, 12" bilsteins that I traded for and leaf spring off a 97 Tahoe from a junkyard that I put an add a leaf on and repainted. I probably have $500.00 in this spring swap and have tons of travel now.

 

Yes! Beefcake drive shafts showed up today. I pulled the radiator and unbolted the steering box. Tomorrow I will drill the holes and mount it up in the new position and weld it all back up.

 

Here is a link to the video I made of the issues I had with the trail gear economy disk brake conversion kit. Trail gear was pretty unresponsive about the issues. I fixed them for myself, but that's because I didn't want to wait for their solution. At first they told me it is supposed to be like that. Imagine trying to mount a 35" tire to it with the rotor moving all over the place.

 

Just bought a 2020 Tundra SR5 4x4 5.7 so now I have the 95 4Runner, 06 Sequoia and the 2020 Tundra

 

Very Nice!

I love the color too!