what do you mean the opposite sides?

edit: i think i see what you mean. i see alt. with ears at 2 and 6, at 11 and 6, and 10 and 6

 

so i think ima do the si12 due to the fact tht my dad just found 2 and the plug tht fits it.

 

yeah. the one i have is at 12 and 6. i'm sure you can get any of them to work... just cut and modify (weld an extension) the adjustment arm of the alt bracket. the base should fit the stock location

 

I havent researched it, but what is the advanatage of going with a GM alternator? More output,or a better alternator all the way around?

I seen somewhere that Yotarob said to keep a Japanese made alternator over a refurb and usually the brushes and something else is all that needs replaced. I wish I knew what thread I had seen it on, I would of copied and pasted it to my thread.

I hate to say it, but a foreign made part will usually out last a domestic part. Not trying to change your mind, I was just speaking in general about refurbing parts.

But if it is a better upgrade, I would like to know as I would eventually do it myself.

 

a lot of people do the gm swap due to the gm alternator having hight amp output.
im doing mine because i need an alternator and we have a few gm ones laying around. so i pay $0, and only have to make it fit. plus higher output is nice.

 

i decide to do my swap in a new thread so it would be easier to find but the link is in my sig.

 

also, gm alternators have a good price-to-amp ratio. and parts are easy to get a hold of

 

any updates?

 

not really. right now im doing the GM alternator swap. i have a seperat thread for it and its in my sig.

once i get the alternator all done. i can install my radiator, check to make sure it doesnt leak. if its good i can finish some minor things. then get some money to take it to the smog station.

i may move it tomarrow and possibly start reinforcing the front cross member if i can find enough metal.

my mesh top is at a pause until i find a lot more medal or get a job to buy some. sucks being jobless

and i have to change my oil sending units between the to trucks to make my sr5 gauge work. any know what might cause the gas gauge to stay at a 1/2 always, even with the key off???

 

so besides for testing my alternator i didnt do anything to my truck. i ended up going to a car show all day instead.

other news, i took the mesh top off the berry because its getting cold and may rain tomarrow. and im quite suprised at how easy i wwas able to put the top on by myself

 

hey man glad to here your making progress what car show did you go to

 

i went to may madness in san rafael

 

Is it accurate? Mine stays at whatever level it was at when I turn it off and remove the key but still works just fine, before the cluster swap, my old one would drop with the key out.

 

i dont know. my old cluster was the same, remove the key and it drops.

 

Hey Twisted, thought I'd read your thread considering how many post's you've put on mine. You seem to really know your stuff. I like the home made soft top, too. I have a soft top that came with my '89, but it was all velcro around the bottom, and doesn't stay attached to the tailgate well enough, so it doesn't get much use. I definitely wouldn't pass the speed test you put yours through. I'll have to check out your gm alternator swap thread when I have time.

 

heyy thanks. i dont know all, but i know some and i learn alot from reading threads on here, heck im subscribed to over 100. always looking. and then their is always learning from first hand.

when i found the metal tht are my hoops back in nov i think i looked at it and thought hey tht would be great to make a top and just held on to it. the plans for the soft top where to wait and get some tarp and make a top but then i stumbled on this mesh so i just had to go for it, one day ill get tht tarp and make a all year round one but for now this will work.

as far as the velcro goes, i would add snaps to it

 

snaps are the way to go

 

Hey Twisted, the float lever on my tank was really corroded. I took some PB Blaster and a wire brush to it and got the rust off and it works great. It should move freely.

Unfortunately you will need to drop your tank or maybe lower it enough that you might get to it from the acess panel under the passenger rear seat. The fuel pump you get through the panel, but not the float.

More than likely, if you drop your tank, you will want empty as possible and I am quite sure your will have a lot of rust build up at the bottom of the tank when you look in it. Mine had about 1/4 inch of rust on bottom. You can replace the tank, but I did a post in my thread about cleaning and sealing it up.

If you wind up dropping your tank, let me know and I can help you through it. It works great for me.

 

You should be able to get your float working just with PB Blaster and wire brush.

But I bet you will wind up doing your tank while its out. If you do, here is how I did it.

I drained the tank and let it dry, then took a rubber mallet and tapped the tank to get as much broke loose as possible.
Then took a chain and worked it rocked the tank back and forth to break more loose.
Then I soaked it in 8-10 gallons of vinegar and this turned rust into a powder for 3 days.
Then I used this Red Coat I got from Oriellys and let it dry for 2 more days.

Found this way to clean the tank on the net and works great.

 

heyy thanks but my float works.
when i replaced it a year or 2 ago their was no rust in the tank.
and the main reason i know it is good is because it works with the old gauge cluster. i think the gas gauge in the sr5 cluster is broken