Redeth's 1989 4Runner Resurrection
#1741
well dang it on the trip its been suddenly hot as heck here too weve been having regular power black outs taking 2-4 hrs to get power back
its the heat
the condenser is in front of the radiator on our runners rich but i knew what you were saying a pair of pusher fans on a manual switch or even a thermostat would be a huge help your fan clutch is working isnt it? you could go to a flexalite fan instead of the clutch
there's also the adding a wind shield washer bottle an pump with squirters to help cool the air hitting radiator down as well i had one on my old chevy in houston due to sitting in traffic
wow that jeeps got a long nose on her lol looks good though! an WHOAH thats a big isuzu
its the heat
the condenser is in front of the radiator on our runners rich but i knew what you were saying a pair of pusher fans on a manual switch or even a thermostat would be a huge help your fan clutch is working isnt it? you could go to a flexalite fan instead of the clutch
there's also the adding a wind shield washer bottle an pump with squirters to help cool the air hitting radiator down as well i had one on my old chevy in houston due to sitting in traffic
wow that jeeps got a long nose on her lol looks good though! an WHOAH thats a big isuzu
#1743
Dude, I am really sorry that your trip had so many problems! But I am extremely happy that it happened in a way that wasn't catastrophic .. Seriously! You are absolutely right, it could have been much worse.
I gotta tell you one thing... I'm not about to even trying to tell you which path to take, and I know it makes sense to put cooling before cooling off... But its just that I know from experience that you can absolutely have air conditioning and never even hit the 1/3rd. There are things that you can do without even getting an e fan, like a silicone mod on your fan clutch kama which actually makes it come on more often or even stay on if you want .. Remember, I spent two summers in a row in Lake Havasu at 124 degrees wheeling for hours with the air conditioning on...
Even if you do not do air conditioning you should still go through and do a full cooling system flush and actually, if you'd like to know a good place that does very reasonable re-rods, I have that for you too. It's really a good idea to do that as preventive maintenance and to prevent actually having to replace a radiator. Basically take it apart re-rod it, solder it and call it Barney Oatfield! Hehe. I'm guessing your water pump is new when he did the rebuild so it could stand to reason that the radiator is a little bit in need of a good reaming? You will be shocked how much difference that makes, along with maybe a little tweaking of the fan clutch as I mentioned.
Dude, that rodeo is freaking sick! what a BA beast! My daughter had a really nice one that I believe was a 99 and if she hadn't run it into the ground it probably would have lasted a lot longer than it had, 199,000 miles. I think you can swap a lot of Honda parts because it's pretty much the same car as a passport. Only problem with those is they are no longer and you are very limited... But then again we can relate to that right? Hahaha.
I like that Jeep as well. One of my girlfriends back in the day had a 71 with the 406 v8 in it! The thing was so freaking fast! Lol.
I'm really glad you were able to get back safe... Welcome home from the third ring of hell! It sure feels like that doesn't it when you're having to work on a car the parking lot at 115 degrees? DIOS MIO!
I gotta tell you one thing... I'm not about to even trying to tell you which path to take, and I know it makes sense to put cooling before cooling off... But its just that I know from experience that you can absolutely have air conditioning and never even hit the 1/3rd. There are things that you can do without even getting an e fan, like a silicone mod on your fan clutch kama which actually makes it come on more often or even stay on if you want .. Remember, I spent two summers in a row in Lake Havasu at 124 degrees wheeling for hours with the air conditioning on...
Even if you do not do air conditioning you should still go through and do a full cooling system flush and actually, if you'd like to know a good place that does very reasonable re-rods, I have that for you too. It's really a good idea to do that as preventive maintenance and to prevent actually having to replace a radiator. Basically take it apart re-rod it, solder it and call it Barney Oatfield! Hehe. I'm guessing your water pump is new when he did the rebuild so it could stand to reason that the radiator is a little bit in need of a good reaming? You will be shocked how much difference that makes, along with maybe a little tweaking of the fan clutch as I mentioned.
Dude, that rodeo is freaking sick! what a BA beast! My daughter had a really nice one that I believe was a 99 and if she hadn't run it into the ground it probably would have lasted a lot longer than it had, 199,000 miles. I think you can swap a lot of Honda parts because it's pretty much the same car as a passport. Only problem with those is they are no longer and you are very limited... But then again we can relate to that right? Hahaha.
I like that Jeep as well. One of my girlfriends back in the day had a 71 with the 406 v8 in it! The thing was so freaking fast! Lol.
I'm really glad you were able to get back safe... Welcome home from the third ring of hell! It sure feels like that doesn't it when you're having to work on a car the parking lot at 115 degrees? DIOS MIO!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jun 30, 2013 at 10:20 PM.
#1744
Bummer about the trip, Richard 
Really? Is that stock on the V6 Runners? (First-gens have steel tubing.) Even if stock rubber, shouldn't it have factory-crimped connectors, not hose clamps?
Nice trick 
Agree with radiator possibly starting to get clogged. Cooling system's designed to handle running AC, as long as components are in good condition. However, maybe your engine upgrade demands more cooling?

Really? Is that stock on the V6 Runners? (First-gens have steel tubing.) Even if stock rubber, shouldn't it have factory-crimped connectors, not hose clamps?

...Even if you do not do air conditioning you should still go through and do a full cooling system flush....it could stand to reason that the radiator is a little bit in need of a good reaming? You will be shocked how much difference that makes, along with maybe a little tweaking of the fan clutch as I mentioned.
#1745
the condenser is in front of the radiator on our runners rich but i knew what you were saying a pair of pusher fans on a manual switch or even a thermostat would be a huge help your fan clutch is working isnt it? you could go to a flexalite fan instead of the clutch
wow that jeeps got a long nose on her lol looks good though! an WHOAH thats a big isuzu
wow that jeeps got a long nose on her lol looks good though! an WHOAH thats a big isuzu
Will, I had meant of adding the electric fan to the front of the radiator where all the AC stuff is ran behind that grill. So i intend to keep the original clutch fan. I know it is working properly cuz i hear it turn on and it always keeps the truck cool(with the exception of this past off road trip.) so adding a 2nd fan should definitely be good.
The Jeep really does have a huge nose. I believe all of those that are that style had a really far extended bumper like that lol. He just added a new'er warn style bumper to it. And yes that Rodeo was humongous!
Bummer about the trip, Richard 
Really? Is that stock on the V6 Runners? (First-gens have steel tubing.) Even if stock rubber, shouldn't it have factory-crimped connectors, not hose clamps?
Agree with radiator possibly starting to get clogged. Cooling system's designed to handle running AC, as long as components are in good condition. However, maybe your engine upgrade demands more cooling?

Really? Is that stock on the V6 Runners? (First-gens have steel tubing.) Even if stock rubber, shouldn't it have factory-crimped connectors, not hose clamps?
Agree with radiator possibly starting to get clogged. Cooling system's designed to handle running AC, as long as components are in good condition. However, maybe your engine upgrade demands more cooling?
Ray you think the radiator might be getting clogged? When i bought the truck i had the radiator flushed and rodded. Would it really clog up again so soon after having that work done?
I gotta tell you one thing... I'm not about to even trying to tell you which path to take, and I know it makes sense to put cooling before cooling off... But its just that I know from experience that you can absolutely have air conditioning and never even hit the 1/3rd. There are things that you can do without even getting an e fan, like a silicone mod on your fan clutch kama which actually makes it come on more often or even stay on if you want .. Remember, I spent two summers in a row in Lake Havasu at 124 degrees wheeling for hours with the air conditioning on...
Even if you do not do air conditioning you should still go through and do a full cooling system flush and actually, if you'd like to know a good place that does very reasonable re-rods, I have that for you too. It's really a good idea to do that as preventive maintenance and to prevent actually having to replace a radiator. Basically take it apart re-rod it, solder it and call it Barney Oatfield! Hehe. I'm guessing your water pump is new when he did the rebuild so it could stand to reason that the radiator is a little bit in need of a good reaming? You will be shocked how much difference that makes, along with maybe a little tweaking of the fan clutch as I mentioned.
Dude, that rodeo is freaking sick! what a BA beast! My daughter had a really nice one that I believe was a 99 and if she hadn't run it into the ground it probably would have lasted a lot longer than it had, 199,000 miles. I think you can swap a lot of Honda parts because it's pretty much the same car as a passport. Only problem with those is they are no longer and you are very limited... But then again we can relate to that right? Hahaha.
I like that Jeep as well. One of my girlfriends back in the day had a 71 with the 406 v8 in it! The thing was so freaking fast! Lol.
I'm really glad you were able to get back safe... Welcome home from the third ring of hell! It sure feels like that doesn't it when you're having to work on a car the parking lot at 115 degrees? DIOS MIO!
Even if you do not do air conditioning you should still go through and do a full cooling system flush and actually, if you'd like to know a good place that does very reasonable re-rods, I have that for you too. It's really a good idea to do that as preventive maintenance and to prevent actually having to replace a radiator. Basically take it apart re-rod it, solder it and call it Barney Oatfield! Hehe. I'm guessing your water pump is new when he did the rebuild so it could stand to reason that the radiator is a little bit in need of a good reaming? You will be shocked how much difference that makes, along with maybe a little tweaking of the fan clutch as I mentioned.
Dude, that rodeo is freaking sick! what a BA beast! My daughter had a really nice one that I believe was a 99 and if she hadn't run it into the ground it probably would have lasted a lot longer than it had, 199,000 miles. I think you can swap a lot of Honda parts because it's pretty much the same car as a passport. Only problem with those is they are no longer and you are very limited... But then again we can relate to that right? Hahaha.
I like that Jeep as well. One of my girlfriends back in the day had a 71 with the 406 v8 in it! The thing was so freaking fast! Lol.
I'm really glad you were able to get back safe... Welcome home from the third ring of hell! It sure feels like that doesn't it when you're having to work on a car the parking lot at 115 degrees? DIOS MIO!
I just gotta mention that my truck began to over heat even without any AC, i had windows down and i was only going 40-55mph on those hills.
The water pump is brand new. The one i previously had was all jacked up. So that pump is new. Like i said in the previous reply I did have my radiator flushed and rodded when i bought the truck. Would the radiator really go bad that soon? it has only been about 1&3/4 years since i had that radiator rodded.
As for the Rodeo, yes finding parts for it are really hard according to the owner. and because people dont really fix Izisu's up crazy like they do with more popular makes. there really isnt a SAS kit for that truck un less you take it to a shop to have it custom made. He did mention that he got all kinds parts and they eventually made a frankensein sas/lift for his rig. it does look pretty good though. It's just so damn big though. Chris's truck is big as it is and next to his it looks even bigger haha
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I mentioned gutting out the AC from my truck because that electric fan would need to go in front of the radiator where those AC lines are.
The guys with the Jeep were telling me on how they had done that to their old toyota. an 83 4x4 toyota pickup. Said they had to leave the regular clutch fan in, and the they installed the fan on the front side too.
Last edited by Redeth005; Jul 1, 2013 at 10:01 AM.
#1746
Ppl overheat with what they thought were "decent circulating systems" all the time on all the Big Bear and Arrowhead climbs. .... The Grapevine, Cahon Pass,.... Glacier Pass on the 14.....all of them kill vehicles all the summer long..... BUT, if ur rig is set up just right and running the right gears (which u are), and radiator is flowing (yours should be good to go), and oftrn MOST IMPORTANT yet equally as often overlooked... Two things...
1. Way too often in the summer and California people forget that their trucks have been running at 72 degrees Fahrenheit all year long and sometimes much cooler... And then they climb hills 115 degrees and it can push things quite extensively. The first thing that many people do is change the thermostat out or do the little drilled hole like 4crawler..... Or do a dual stage thermostat all together. I'm sure if you did the radiator the guy probably replaced the thermostat as well.... But I can't tell you how many times I've heard of people going to check the thermostat and finding by the part number that it was indeed a Toyota thermostat but the wrong one altogether. If I remember correctly on the v6 it might be different but on mine I wanted to open between 170 180 degrees. The weird thing is if you go to the parts store most often they will give you one that opens between 190 and 195 or something like that. I know it seems like a stupid thing to go on and on about but believe it or not many people when they go on trips like that just simply remove their thermostat, etc, so it's not unusual what happened to you guys.
2. Coolant to water ratio. Summer is absolutely, positively different then winter, as everyone knows.... And, I promise with saying that I don't mean to sound like a smart ass... But, how often do you hear of people changing the ratio for the summer or winter? Sure, up where dragon or over where Terry and others are it can get absolutely freezing in the winter, unlike here, and they definitely think of things like the coolant and other fluids that they use. In fact in Washington we used to have to change out all the gear oil and transmission fluid. As far as coolant, you definitely want a ratio that is going to keep you from boiling. I have those big containers you know on the side of my house, and if I go to the High Sierras in the winter for several weeks, I will often drain off into a clean container around a gallon and then jump up to a 75 percent coolant to 25 percent water ratio. It's not totally freezing like the Alcan Highway in Alaska , so I don't need to go hundred percent and it's not really efficient to do so. Definitely think about your coolant and maybe consider running more like a 60/40 ratio. The reason it overheats so fast at certain points is because the water begins to vaporize. Its probably right at that line and you never seemed to push you past the red which is good, because doing that in a 3.0 could be catastrophic and often is. They are not strangers to blowing head gaskets with overheating. Talk to your girls family and see what they tell you about your coolant and thermostat... Maybe they have some other ideas for you...
But, ditch the AC all together? True, common for people get rid of their AC, putting in air compressors and such... I just really think about it first. I mean you went to Tierra del Sol with me in my truck with the air on climbing hills in 4 wheel drive... Never even came close and you know how hot it was because your dog was panting like it was on its last breaths! Poor little Sophie!... Hahaha. She did okay though... Anyway, you also know due to a couple of trips we had, I know, where you seemed to be really over heating in your body like that Tierra del Sol on that first hill where Ruben pulled you out? And if I remember correctly in the Angeles Crest on that one day when it was like 100 degrees? Those were some pretty nasty Canyon hills and I don't ever remember you over heating.
Maybe try bypassing the heater core for now just to see if it's totally clogged, which I don't think it is... I think you said your heater blasts like a furnace. But a lot of people develop gurgling and deffective heaters due to a bad heater core and can sometimes cause circulation issues, so many times they just bypass the heater core. It will definitely keep your cab cooler. Even if just a little bit that can't hurt.
Here's a thread. I know it is for Tacomas, and I suppose 3rd gen for runners, but it will still give you an idea of how guys set up their fan clutch to be on more often. From what Eric was telling me you can simply add sealant and certain portions and it will do the same thing. But first you need to know if it's coming on and actually fully engaging...... (I think you have to do the spam puzzle on the bottom before it will let you look at the page)............
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthre...ght=fan+clutch
Again, I am NOT saying that adding and efan is a bad idea, and I know some guys place them on the outside because of their having a condenser for AC in front of the radiator... They just pull more air through to the backside of the radiator to help the stock fan do its job. I think one guy used Chrysler model because it was small... I think Jason in Tennessee just added a transmission cooling fan to help his setup. I know the 3.0 is a little bit different and some ways and a lot different in others.... But I would do lots of research before I started tearing things off. If you are going to move your AC into the trash heap then you should definitely remove the condenser and everything else that is in the way up front.
I think that there are many instances where people assume because they hear the fan that it's working properly... I think its worth looking into. I also think it's worth the extra insurance to take your rig down to a radiator shop and have them pressure test the system and make sure that its operating properly( they may have serviced your radiator perfectly, but then again that could be your problem and you need to rule out everything you're off your cooling system... Because you are going to be really pissed off if you remove your AC in add that fan and it doesn't do enough because there were other factors involved, right?) . I also think it's worth it to check the thermostat and make sure it's the right model. I just don't think that when it comes to high temperatures that they need to overheat like that... Obviously Chris already had problems and maybe the guy with the rodeo did as well? In other words, it could have been, however odd, simply a coincidence. Did the Jeep ever overheat? I will have to read back as I can't remember. Getting that close to the red line is definitely cause for alarm and further investigation, so you are on the right track. Kill it homie!
1. Way too often in the summer and California people forget that their trucks have been running at 72 degrees Fahrenheit all year long and sometimes much cooler... And then they climb hills 115 degrees and it can push things quite extensively. The first thing that many people do is change the thermostat out or do the little drilled hole like 4crawler..... Or do a dual stage thermostat all together. I'm sure if you did the radiator the guy probably replaced the thermostat as well.... But I can't tell you how many times I've heard of people going to check the thermostat and finding by the part number that it was indeed a Toyota thermostat but the wrong one altogether. If I remember correctly on the v6 it might be different but on mine I wanted to open between 170 180 degrees. The weird thing is if you go to the parts store most often they will give you one that opens between 190 and 195 or something like that. I know it seems like a stupid thing to go on and on about but believe it or not many people when they go on trips like that just simply remove their thermostat, etc, so it's not unusual what happened to you guys.
2. Coolant to water ratio. Summer is absolutely, positively different then winter, as everyone knows.... And, I promise with saying that I don't mean to sound like a smart ass... But, how often do you hear of people changing the ratio for the summer or winter? Sure, up where dragon or over where Terry and others are it can get absolutely freezing in the winter, unlike here, and they definitely think of things like the coolant and other fluids that they use. In fact in Washington we used to have to change out all the gear oil and transmission fluid. As far as coolant, you definitely want a ratio that is going to keep you from boiling. I have those big containers you know on the side of my house, and if I go to the High Sierras in the winter for several weeks, I will often drain off into a clean container around a gallon and then jump up to a 75 percent coolant to 25 percent water ratio. It's not totally freezing like the Alcan Highway in Alaska , so I don't need to go hundred percent and it's not really efficient to do so. Definitely think about your coolant and maybe consider running more like a 60/40 ratio. The reason it overheats so fast at certain points is because the water begins to vaporize. Its probably right at that line and you never seemed to push you past the red which is good, because doing that in a 3.0 could be catastrophic and often is. They are not strangers to blowing head gaskets with overheating. Talk to your girls family and see what they tell you about your coolant and thermostat... Maybe they have some other ideas for you...
But, ditch the AC all together? True, common for people get rid of their AC, putting in air compressors and such... I just really think about it first. I mean you went to Tierra del Sol with me in my truck with the air on climbing hills in 4 wheel drive... Never even came close and you know how hot it was because your dog was panting like it was on its last breaths! Poor little Sophie!... Hahaha. She did okay though... Anyway, you also know due to a couple of trips we had, I know, where you seemed to be really over heating in your body like that Tierra del Sol on that first hill where Ruben pulled you out? And if I remember correctly in the Angeles Crest on that one day when it was like 100 degrees? Those were some pretty nasty Canyon hills and I don't ever remember you over heating.
Maybe try bypassing the heater core for now just to see if it's totally clogged, which I don't think it is... I think you said your heater blasts like a furnace. But a lot of people develop gurgling and deffective heaters due to a bad heater core and can sometimes cause circulation issues, so many times they just bypass the heater core. It will definitely keep your cab cooler. Even if just a little bit that can't hurt.
Here's a thread. I know it is for Tacomas, and I suppose 3rd gen for runners, but it will still give you an idea of how guys set up their fan clutch to be on more often. From what Eric was telling me you can simply add sealant and certain portions and it will do the same thing. But first you need to know if it's coming on and actually fully engaging...... (I think you have to do the spam puzzle on the bottom before it will let you look at the page)............
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthre...ght=fan+clutch
Again, I am NOT saying that adding and efan is a bad idea, and I know some guys place them on the outside because of their having a condenser for AC in front of the radiator... They just pull more air through to the backside of the radiator to help the stock fan do its job. I think one guy used Chrysler model because it was small... I think Jason in Tennessee just added a transmission cooling fan to help his setup. I know the 3.0 is a little bit different and some ways and a lot different in others.... But I would do lots of research before I started tearing things off. If you are going to move your AC into the trash heap then you should definitely remove the condenser and everything else that is in the way up front.
I think that there are many instances where people assume because they hear the fan that it's working properly... I think its worth looking into. I also think it's worth the extra insurance to take your rig down to a radiator shop and have them pressure test the system and make sure that its operating properly( they may have serviced your radiator perfectly, but then again that could be your problem and you need to rule out everything you're off your cooling system... Because you are going to be really pissed off if you remove your AC in add that fan and it doesn't do enough because there were other factors involved, right?) . I also think it's worth it to check the thermostat and make sure it's the right model. I just don't think that when it comes to high temperatures that they need to overheat like that... Obviously Chris already had problems and maybe the guy with the rodeo did as well? In other words, it could have been, however odd, simply a coincidence. Did the Jeep ever overheat? I will have to read back as I can't remember. Getting that close to the red line is definitely cause for alarm and further investigation, so you are on the right track. Kill it homie!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 1, 2013 at 01:14 PM.
#1747
Sorry for the long post, Richard,... I don't mean to clog up your thread, just trying to help. It's just that this is one of the most serious things we can run into as an older Toyota owner. I lived in Phoenix with a high output 5MGE in an 84 Cressida.... It was often 124 degrees during the summer and we would cruise all over the place up in the mountains north of Phoenix, visiting the lakes and such... Never once came close to overheating.
#1748
Well to answer your questions. No the radiator shop did not install the Thermostat for me. I advised them not to because i had just changed it myself. i bought it off autozone. So who knows maybe i might have one of those thermostats that allow flow at higher temp then what i should have like you said.
As for the jeep? no he didnt over heat. not even close. Neither did Ruben. The jeep owner was actually the one who told us about the electric fan idea because his jeep doesnty have a fan so he only runs the electric fan and it seemed to work very well for him.
You might be right about this whole idea. I can always look into it some more. I didnt over heat as bad as the others but i did come close to it.
Also I did not know there was supposed to be a water to antifreez ratio. I have one bottle of lucas redline(whatever its called) and the rest antifreeze. I never added water. I would imagine after reading what you just put that that could also cause a cooling problem for me??? right?
I think something i can do is check out those thermostats and just reinstall one for the lower temp engage and then do the correct ratio of antifreeze water. maybe that might fix whatever problem i have.
Thanks for the info Mark. I also wanna look into having my fan on Full time. that sounds like a great idea. but ill do this other stuff first before i go through with that fan thing.
As for the jeep? no he didnt over heat. not even close. Neither did Ruben. The jeep owner was actually the one who told us about the electric fan idea because his jeep doesnty have a fan so he only runs the electric fan and it seemed to work very well for him.
You might be right about this whole idea. I can always look into it some more. I didnt over heat as bad as the others but i did come close to it.
Also I did not know there was supposed to be a water to antifreez ratio. I have one bottle of lucas redline(whatever its called) and the rest antifreeze. I never added water. I would imagine after reading what you just put that that could also cause a cooling problem for me??? right?
I think something i can do is check out those thermostats and just reinstall one for the lower temp engage and then do the correct ratio of antifreeze water. maybe that might fix whatever problem i have.
Thanks for the info Mark. I also wanna look into having my fan on Full time. that sounds like a great idea. but ill do this other stuff first before i go through with that fan thing.
#1749
I only recommend using Toyota thermostats. I'm pretty sure most of the guys that are actually gurus would agree with me. 4 crawler has a lot of info on that, and I know that if you can talk to Eric when he gets back he will most likely be a great help in figuring out just what is the best setup and maybe help you even to figure out specifically what is wrong. I don't want to say yes in regards to getting a specific thermostat before I do some refreshing on the reading that I did regarding that subject. Sometimes they can get stuck or something as simple as a little bit of sealant getting wedged in them and they just won't open up at the right temperature?
No matter what I would definitely have another radiator shop test your radiator. Very often, other shops will do those types of tests for free because you have told them that you had another place restore it and you're having this problem. I know if a very good place in Gardena that supplied my unique radiator for me. They actually built it from scratch.
If you're going to go with the fan all together and ditch the clutch fan just start doing a lot of research now because there are lots of tricks to getting them to fit and come on at the right time, and you can also even add a switch I believe that will allow you to turn them on at any time. One good thing about the fan is that they will stay on after you turn the car off in order to cool the radiator down. Many times people will restart and find that it's actually hotter than it was when they turned it off. I believe that's just a matter of physics and the fact that there is no longer circulating. Anyway, like I said, with a bit of good research you should be fine there are tons of good threads on here and elsewhere regarding the Ford Taurus fan swap and other things. I know it's kind of stupid that I never that the bullet on this but I just have never had a problem with cooling and while a standard fan like we have takes a bit more power from the engine, I've heard of just as many instances where electric fans cause problems and are difficult to get just right.
I think Ian did electric fan and then went back to his clutch type fan. He might have fixed the problem by now but as you know he is very good with electronics and he still had some problems. Again, I just mentioned this so that you and maybe I and others can do more research , not to intimidate, because its not a mission impossible type thing. Lol.
I think LC Engineering even has a kit or at least all of the other stuff to help you set up whenever you get from the junkyard. I am always interested in improving in that area and since I have a little more room with the 22 re: maybe I should look into this more. I guess it's just one of those if it ain't broke don't fix it types things that keeps me a little lazy on the subject! Hahahahaha.
As far as cool with ratio there is tons of information on that as well but I just don't happen to have the links to right now. Just another thing that's on my PC which I remember going over with Thook/ a great guy on here named Matthew. I'm fairly certain that running all coolant or at least that ratio is not the best idea because the changes a lot of things regarding pressure which is extremely important in a cooling system. You also have to consider altitude, and I would be willing to bet that you guys were already climbing when you noticed the needle hitting higher and higher? Most racers use straight distilled water and then flush it out and add some colour to prevent rusting when it's not in use. Sometimes 50/50 is not the perfect ratio either. Most of these guys say things like this...
"-best coolant for you would be a 100% distilled water, but it will corrode your engine.
-in texas, i would run, bottle of redline water wetter, and mix of 80% distilled water, 20% green˟antifreeze.================================= ==================i run 70% water/ 30%˟antifreeze˟and the thermal needle is a bit below middle, unless i drive it hard. after couple WOT pulls it gets to normal operating temp."
&
'will using less antifreeze and more water make your car cooler or am i just guessing??'
"Yeah, the water is better at cooling than antifreeze is, and water wetter works best when used with straight water.You just cant use tap water, and you should put just a little antifreeze in.And dont run straight water in winter, Id still run 60/40 water/freeze in winter at least."
No matter what I would definitely have another radiator shop test your radiator. Very often, other shops will do those types of tests for free because you have told them that you had another place restore it and you're having this problem. I know if a very good place in Gardena that supplied my unique radiator for me. They actually built it from scratch.
If you're going to go with the fan all together and ditch the clutch fan just start doing a lot of research now because there are lots of tricks to getting them to fit and come on at the right time, and you can also even add a switch I believe that will allow you to turn them on at any time. One good thing about the fan is that they will stay on after you turn the car off in order to cool the radiator down. Many times people will restart and find that it's actually hotter than it was when they turned it off. I believe that's just a matter of physics and the fact that there is no longer circulating. Anyway, like I said, with a bit of good research you should be fine there are tons of good threads on here and elsewhere regarding the Ford Taurus fan swap and other things. I know it's kind of stupid that I never that the bullet on this but I just have never had a problem with cooling and while a standard fan like we have takes a bit more power from the engine, I've heard of just as many instances where electric fans cause problems and are difficult to get just right.
I think Ian did electric fan and then went back to his clutch type fan. He might have fixed the problem by now but as you know he is very good with electronics and he still had some problems. Again, I just mentioned this so that you and maybe I and others can do more research , not to intimidate, because its not a mission impossible type thing. Lol.
I think LC Engineering even has a kit or at least all of the other stuff to help you set up whenever you get from the junkyard. I am always interested in improving in that area and since I have a little more room with the 22 re: maybe I should look into this more. I guess it's just one of those if it ain't broke don't fix it types things that keeps me a little lazy on the subject! Hahahahaha.
As far as cool with ratio there is tons of information on that as well but I just don't happen to have the links to right now. Just another thing that's on my PC which I remember going over with Thook/ a great guy on here named Matthew. I'm fairly certain that running all coolant or at least that ratio is not the best idea because the changes a lot of things regarding pressure which is extremely important in a cooling system. You also have to consider altitude, and I would be willing to bet that you guys were already climbing when you noticed the needle hitting higher and higher? Most racers use straight distilled water and then flush it out and add some colour to prevent rusting when it's not in use. Sometimes 50/50 is not the perfect ratio either. Most of these guys say things like this...
"-best coolant for you would be a 100% distilled water, but it will corrode your engine.
-in texas, i would run, bottle of redline water wetter, and mix of 80% distilled water, 20% green˟antifreeze.================================= ==================i run 70% water/ 30%˟antifreeze˟and the thermal needle is a bit below middle, unless i drive it hard. after couple WOT pulls it gets to normal operating temp."
&
'will using less antifreeze and more water make your car cooler or am i just guessing??'
"Yeah, the water is better at cooling than antifreeze is, and water wetter works best when used with straight water.You just cant use tap water, and you should put just a little antifreeze in.And dont run straight water in winter, Id still run 60/40 water/freeze in winter at least."
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 1, 2013 at 02:53 PM.
#1750
2. Coolant to water ratio. Summer is absolutely, positively different then winter, as everyone knows.... And, I promise with saying that I don't mean to sound like a smart ass... But, how often do you hear of people changing the ratio for the summer or winter? Sure, up where dragon or over where Terry and others are it can get absolutely freezing in the winter, unlike here, and they definitely think of things like the coolant and other fluids that they use. In fact in Washington we used to have to change out all the gear oil and transmission fluid.
Yeah we definitely pay attention to that. Water in your diffs from summer mud bogging can be a big problem if you don't swap out fluids.
You might be right about this whole idea. I can always look into it some more. I didnt over heat as bad as the others but i did come close to it.
Also I did not know there was supposed to be a water to antifreez ratio. I have one bottle of lucas redline(whatever its called) and the rest antifreeze. I never added water. I would imagine after reading what you just put that that could also cause a cooling problem for me??? right?
Glad you didn't overheat too bad.
For the coolant mix there is pre mixed stuff out there. I've gotten it a few times in the winter.
Last edited by Red Wagon; Jul 1, 2013 at 04:05 PM.
#1751
ok soo much to read
um 100% pure distilled water once its in an engine wont be 100% pure and the corrosion thing was debunked shouldnt run pure water anyhow boils too low of a temp, 50/50 with concentrated coolant not that premix crud or 1/3rds coolant ,water an redline
thermostat chage is a good idea
locking up the fan clutch is in a sense putting in a flexalight fan without the performance it gives at high speed "scratches head'
the 90 we have has a pusher fan for helping the condenser coil when the truck isnt moving very fast (its not working due to the load resistor being broke) but it mounts behind the grill an the coils maybe 2 of those in there on a manual switch via a relay (so not to cook the switch)
um 100% pure distilled water once its in an engine wont be 100% pure and the corrosion thing was debunked shouldnt run pure water anyhow boils too low of a temp, 50/50 with concentrated coolant not that premix crud or 1/3rds coolant ,water an redline
thermostat chage is a good idea
locking up the fan clutch is in a sense putting in a flexalight fan without the performance it gives at high speed "scratches head'

the 90 we have has a pusher fan for helping the condenser coil when the truck isnt moving very fast (its not working due to the load resistor being broke) but it mounts behind the grill an the coils maybe 2 of those in there on a manual switch via a relay (so not to cook the switch)
#1754
Hey Richard I'm a little late to the party but hey ya know how it is Lol. Sorry to hear to hear about the trip but it will give you a good (hey remember that time we) story.
M2C on the cooling issue, first I agree before doing anything drastic make sure the original system is up to snuff. Where I start to disagree somewhat with others is that the system should work fine wheeling, the system is designed to work under average condition. Wheeling, climbing long grades at hyway speed etc etc are not average and to ask the system to work 100% under those conditions is asking a lot. I don't see why you should have to toss your A/C to acomadate an E fan you should have enough room to add a pusher fan behind the grill. I wouldn't recommend a full on E fan unless your willing to fork out the Dow for the best money can buy (thermo switch, relays etc) don't want to risk full time cooling on the cheep stuff. My opinion of flex lite fans isn't good (cost me a $350 radiator in my dirt track car) and there is a thread on this forum of bad reviews of there Efan. Coolant plays two roles in your case the most important is it dissipates heat better than water so running a heavy mix isn't a bad thing but it does need thinned with water.
I just installed an aux Efan on my 97 for a couple of reasons, one so my A/C will work better a low speeds
And to introduce a little more cool air to the radiator at low rpm. I wired it to kick on with a thermo switch and the A/C compressor, I also added a switch inside to shut it off completely. Seems to be working but I haven't really had a chance to test it out. Just my opinion but let the flaming begin Lol. Have a good one and I hope you come up with a solution that works for you.
M2C on the cooling issue, first I agree before doing anything drastic make sure the original system is up to snuff. Where I start to disagree somewhat with others is that the system should work fine wheeling, the system is designed to work under average condition. Wheeling, climbing long grades at hyway speed etc etc are not average and to ask the system to work 100% under those conditions is asking a lot. I don't see why you should have to toss your A/C to acomadate an E fan you should have enough room to add a pusher fan behind the grill. I wouldn't recommend a full on E fan unless your willing to fork out the Dow for the best money can buy (thermo switch, relays etc) don't want to risk full time cooling on the cheep stuff. My opinion of flex lite fans isn't good (cost me a $350 radiator in my dirt track car) and there is a thread on this forum of bad reviews of there Efan. Coolant plays two roles in your case the most important is it dissipates heat better than water so running a heavy mix isn't a bad thing but it does need thinned with water.
I just installed an aux Efan on my 97 for a couple of reasons, one so my A/C will work better a low speeds
And to introduce a little more cool air to the radiator at low rpm. I wired it to kick on with a thermo switch and the A/C compressor, I also added a switch inside to shut it off completely. Seems to be working but I haven't really had a chance to test it out. Just my opinion but let the flaming begin Lol. Have a good one and I hope you come up with a solution that works for you.
#1757
I agree Jason,....was just sharing that 90%+ coolant with the other 10% being additive is not the general concensus of the ASE world.
Also, Richard had been with me, wheeling, in 100+*f weather, on steep climbs , in 4WLow.... often with the air on .....As well as doing the canyons in the Angeles Crest (from 0ft elevation to 7,000ft in a matter of minutes. ...never crossed the 1/3rd line, ever.
It's funny that while I mention this I remember that one of our first trips to the Angeles Crest, Richard had an idle issue that I managed to get fixed before we moved on... At that time I seem to remember that he was saying he was running a little hot, nothing dramatic but definitely warm.
Far as having the radiator checked... I just think its a good idea to have someone double check any work that was done if the symptoms you are having are telling of something that could very well bring to the line of suspects the very component that was repaired.
I know it's very possible to have things pushed on serious grades, or while wheeling in fairly extreme conditions and so forth... But it seems like just a few degrees and difference of temperature and pretty much the same mountain brought him to the red line? I don't remember him mentioning this after wheeling all day either. And some of those grades up that high elevation of around 9,000 feet are pretty damn steep. I guess that most of my commentary would be due to having eight of these trucks, granted most of them being 2.4 liter motors... But even with other friends that had 3.0 trucks, all through the Sierras and sequoias and so forth... It was very rare that someone had an overheating issue, and when we did it was always due to some thing or another being faulty or just simply inadequate. Maybe I've just had great luck with the last 8 trucks... it is possible. But the only time I have an overheating issue it always seems to be between either the radiator, water pump or thermostat. 1 or 2 times out of 18 years I had head gaskets that were causing overheating... But that's definitely different.
Not meaning to simply just disagree with you wholeheartedly, Jason. I totally get your point and I agree that those conditions do push these things to the limit. But everything, including even the grade of oil to use, can have quite a bit of effect on the cooling system, yeah?
Also, Richard had been with me, wheeling, in 100+*f weather, on steep climbs , in 4WLow.... often with the air on .....As well as doing the canyons in the Angeles Crest (from 0ft elevation to 7,000ft in a matter of minutes. ...never crossed the 1/3rd line, ever.
It's funny that while I mention this I remember that one of our first trips to the Angeles Crest, Richard had an idle issue that I managed to get fixed before we moved on... At that time I seem to remember that he was saying he was running a little hot, nothing dramatic but definitely warm.
Far as having the radiator checked... I just think its a good idea to have someone double check any work that was done if the symptoms you are having are telling of something that could very well bring to the line of suspects the very component that was repaired.
I know it's very possible to have things pushed on serious grades, or while wheeling in fairly extreme conditions and so forth... But it seems like just a few degrees and difference of temperature and pretty much the same mountain brought him to the red line? I don't remember him mentioning this after wheeling all day either. And some of those grades up that high elevation of around 9,000 feet are pretty damn steep. I guess that most of my commentary would be due to having eight of these trucks, granted most of them being 2.4 liter motors... But even with other friends that had 3.0 trucks, all through the Sierras and sequoias and so forth... It was very rare that someone had an overheating issue, and when we did it was always due to some thing or another being faulty or just simply inadequate. Maybe I've just had great luck with the last 8 trucks... it is possible. But the only time I have an overheating issue it always seems to be between either the radiator, water pump or thermostat. 1 or 2 times out of 18 years I had head gaskets that were causing overheating... But that's definitely different.
Not meaning to simply just disagree with you wholeheartedly, Jason. I totally get your point and I agree that those conditions do push these things to the limit. But everything, including even the grade of oil to use, can have quite a bit of effect on the cooling system, yeah?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 1, 2013 at 09:26 PM.
#1758
Oh I agree mark, all I was saying is automotive systems are design for average conditions. I also agree that a system working at its best should keep up, but its not necessarily designed to. As far as coolant I agree its probably a little over mixed. not trying to pick a fight with anybody just putting out my opinion ya know .
#1759
Oh I agree mark, all I was saying is automotive systems are design for average conditions. I also agree that a system working at its best should keep up, but its not necessarily designed to. As far as coolant I agree its probably a little over mixed. not trying to pick a fight with anybody just putting out my opinion ya know .
Hahaha. .... not evennnnn gonna argue with ya on any of what you said. ... You are 100% correct on all of it .. And I'm more so just sharing my experiences. One thing I know for sure is that the grades throughout California are the number one overheating killers of any car! you would know that for sure from first hand experience as you drive those highways and see countless people pulled over on the side of the road on the grapevine and elsewhere.






