Wow... What a post I was laughing my arse off the whole time ha ha Thanks I needed that after todays long day of work.
I think my next fix might be the AC. I'm gonna try putting on that band and see if that's all it needed. You know how a lot of people just remove it to save on gas and get more power or w/e I'm guessing the last owner might have done that. Or better yet im hoping thats all it was. cuz i really need AC. this wheather is killing me.
One thing that concerns me is, that what if the AC is frozen. Not literally cold, but like stuck. I've heard putting a band on a frozen AC can really mess up ur motor or something. I honestly dont know where I heard/read that. But when I turn the AC pulley with my hand it seems to turn without any problems.

Can any of u confirm this? Or if I were to put the band on would it still work fine and just not blow any cold air? I'm no mechanic so I'm pretty clueless. I'll still do some research on it anyway.

 

axle rebuild thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...ctures-180536/

 

Was saying on the phone to ya.............;

Turn the AC CLUTCH, ONLY, if it will.(should, and I think you're saying you can turn it by hand). The clutch engages the compressor ONLY when certain things are in play;

1. System has to be charged to a certain level. Anything below acceptable, it will NOT engage in an effort to protect to save the compressor from grenading.

2. When the relay is good(usually is) and Fan and Blue ON button on the AC/Heater face is actuated.

If you find the clutch is turning freely... Just install the belt and turn on your AC. If the clutch keeps turning freely and will not engage the compressor(you'll be able to tell if it's just turning freely like before or actually engaging the compressor).... then you're most likely going to need to AT LEAST give it a charge.

Personally, if it were not to engage, I would;

1. Order a Drier

2. Order all the o-rings you'll need/that you can get to(compressor has 4, condensor and drier have around 6, hoses on both ends have 4,...and they're 3 different sizes/2 sizes for the most part, and the ones on the compressor are the ONLY ones that big, at least on my 87 22RE.).... Then, if you don't want to go R12 like I did(which I don't recommend... it will eventually be ALL GONE, lol).... Then you'll need to retro-fit the compressor with 134A fittings.

3. I got a retrofit-A/C kit from Napa for 30$ on sale... it has all the possible HI/Low valve fittings(you have to remove the shcraders in YOUR AC Compressor in order for many of those retro-fitting connectors to work)... It also comes with EVERY POSSIBLE O-RING and all the Oil for 134A that you'd need. Then all you'd need would be the 134A .................. Just IMHO.... others might disagree.

4. You'll first, before installing the NEW OEM DRIER, want to 'evacuate' and possible clean out the system/lines/condensor.... There are lots of threads and even FSM instructions on this. Once you have all the parts, first put a HIGH POWER vacuum pump with an moisture trap on it, and run it... Then hold it at 40PSI or so. You should be able to leave that vacuum PSI on there and come back hours later and see NO DROP IN VACUUM.... If you do, you'll need to do the o-rings for SURE. IT'S LEAKING in there somewhere, if so. Then, replace all the o-rings if necessary(I would personally do the ones on the compressor FOR SURE, as they ALMOST ALWAYS are the culprits for leaking)... When you've replaced the o-rings, ... load it with vacuum again, verify that it holds vacuum.... and THEN change the drier at the last step. Then charge.

5. MANY will say "Jump the Compressor and make sure it will engage, BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING else....... I would tend to agree with that. Just don't run and run and run it, ya know? It could have VERY lil oil left in the system. But checking just to be sure it WILL engage once it's filled up/making sure it's not seized.... That's good 'pre-requesite' for 'GOING FORWARD'. Cuz if the compressor is toast.... Then you have to start there, obviously.

Best wishes on this, man... I KNOW it's an expensive prospect... but personally? I CAN'T IMAGINE not having my AC right now! VERY glad I spent the 130$ or so on the Drier, o-rings from Denso and GOOD Freon and the RIGHT Oil-Freon Charge cans.

PS> DO NOT, just again MHO..... do not use the 'STOP LEAK' crap in the cans.... IT WILL clog your evaporator TINY PORTS and can damage/clog these older/tired condensors. And, another thing? MANY people just bite the bullet and grab a new condensor while they're in there.. Around 80$ for Aftermarket, I believe? You'll find out, if you need one/if it's leaking or plugged up.

PSS> I HOPE, BY SOME FREAK CHANCE.... that this guy just removed the belt to save gas.... But would you? hahaha... S'all I'm saying. STILL, I hope it is ready to go, that would ROCK!

 

Thanks dude. Im gonna have to do something about his AC soon because this hot weather has been killing me.
BTW I ordered my while led dashboard lights today from superbrightLEdsor where ever it was that blake got his off of. Hope they come in soon. I ordered 6. Odometer ones. I just wanted to have extra on hand in case one goes out. Because $2-3 for shipping just for one is ridiculous.

Hey mark. When you say to power the clutch on the AC, where exactly am I supposed put that power to? Is there a plug or something?

 

My pleasure, homie...

I'm full of INFO, just ask! hahaha...(some useful... some TOTALLY pointless, hehe).

What I'm speaking of is ON the compressor.... You basically get the belt on, get it turning, then kick on the air...... IF and when it does NOT come on/ice cold, like you'd hoped.... Then you jumper the contact on top of the compressor to force it to engage(On some it might be different... I would check your FSM to be sure).. .but the long and short of it is you want to check to see if the clutch is turning, then when you put 12V to it, that the Compressor kicks on so that both the clutch and piece behind it are GOING ROUND... DON'T do it long... just want to see if it's all workin/if the compressor is frozen. The CRV? Just had to slap a new AC compressor in.... The clutch turned fine.... but the compressor froze up solid. That's what the clutch is also for.... so that if the motor goes out, it shuts down that contact between the two and just the clutch will turn on it's own(so the belt doesn't run on the thing all frozen up, like you'd worried I think?)......

 

By any chance do any of you guys know or have heard anything of the quality of Trail Gear's Trail Creeper gears? I know trail gear is a great brand and makes great products. i was originally going for yukon gears off marlin crawler. but i just came accross these gears in the trail gear website and they are almost $80 cheaper then yukons. Just wondering why they are so much cheaper then the others. Just a name thing or is it really the quality is cheaper then yukon?

http://www.trail-gear.com/toyota-ring-and-pinion-gears
vs.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/differe.../toyota-8-4cyl

 

Cheaper than the 'walk in price' at Yorba Linda, CA store, ... RSK? or whatever it was? Keep shipping in mind, Richard, ... ya know?

BTW, you have signed up for all the newsletters, right? They send out discounts coupons all the time.... But it wont pop up on their site if you don't subscribe

I sub to Marlin, Rock Auto, several

 

Seems I read somewhere just who manufactures TRAIL GEAR'S gears but I cant recall who it was. I sure there good quality.

 

I just subscribed to MarlinCrawler and also to that CBI website. Never know, CBI might have a sale on that front bumper kit i want.


BTW i just got my info for the gears off the pirate website. Scotty C from addicted offroad had replied to the post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfxspaid
TG's ring and pinion are Yukons, great gears.

jeep-to-toy: Check out Performance Offroad Centers, they have package deals on their quality motive gears and install kits for toyotas.

Not the ones I got from them a couple weeks ago. They were 4cyl 4.88s and were Precision Gears. VERY good gears.

From what I can tell, the 4.88s are Precision and the 5.29s are Yukon.
__________________
Scotty
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'll take his word for it since he is a vendor that sells these gears.
Not bad. So 5.29 trail-creaper gears = Yukon Which is what i originally wanted to buy.

 

Hey, isn't MOTIVE the gear set that's on special on that RHK site????

 

RHK site? Motive? Sort I'm clueless. 'Splain to me what you mean.

 

All the links I sent you in that PM? The one link you DEFINITELY saw... actually a couple, from that Seller of Yukon and more in Yorba Linda, CA... RSK or RHK or something like that. One of the links was featuring a 'package deal' they had on "Motive Gears"......... Make sure you make lists of that stuff...... 100$ here and a 100$ there... WOOT! haha..You know what I mean.

BTW, IDLE UP SOLVED! Almost, lol. Have to solder and wire it in, the donor. AT LEAST SOMETHING is fixed, right? haha.

 

Oh ok I just checked the pm out lol I had forgotten u sent that.
So the trailcreeper hears are $167 and the motive gears cost $180.
I'll keep an eye out on both of these and see if they have a sale going on anytime within the next few months.

 

Ahaha... Cool.

Yeah, so I think the Motive Gear Link was a package deal in there somewhere, already, right? If you go to that main site, then click on 'Package deals', ... or maybe they have a 'sales' one too... Might find out how much. BTW, what is the TOTAL, WITH SHIPPING, from those 2 sellers you had mentioned, Marlin and Addicted?

PS> Have you asked Zuk if he has anything on the shelf??? HIT EVERYONE up you can, then keep a list of "Zuk; Forget it, not doing that anymore" or "He says to call back when I'm ready", whatever. Ya know? I don't think there's ANYTHING wrong with going with used 3rd's, man... Or even a whole set up with Birf's and such, etc., ... as long as you read up on all the 'THINGS TO LOOK FOR' lists/threads/blogs, ya know? I think www.4x4wire.com has a good one on that... Marlin I'm pretty sure as well...(most of the sellers have Thread boards, like Marlin, ...... have you looked into that, for info and maybe even a classifieds?(not sure if they have one, but worth a look) ) .......

I think it's actually a GOOD THING that you're having to wait, in a sense... I mean, look at the deals and such that have come up/look how much you've learned to watch out for, etc., AFTER you'd backed off some, well, probably you would now call them 'impulse buys', ya know? I've been there, know exactly how that can work against us, later on, when we then have spent the cabbage and later on see what we could have/should have done, ya know? EXCITED for ya, man! Some real blessings have rolled in over this time that you've held off for logic's sake.... ESPECIALLY THAT COOL DUDE THAT WANT'S TO HELP YA ON THE SAS! WOOT! Still stoked on that one, for you!

Anyway, HOW ARE YA, MAN?

 

I sent Zuk a PM earlier and he replied he doesnt have any used 5.29's or 4.88's so looks like i gotta buy them new from one of the vendors i had planned to get them from.

 

sweet my LED Dashboard lights came in today. So happy. i am now satisfied with my white odometer and heater/ac face. I'm amazed that they came from Missouri to Los Angeles CA in only 2 days Wow! Anyway these are the dash lights off of the "superbrightleds.com" website.
I got this idea off of Blakefogt's build(pg10) I used the "Cool White" color; same as Blake's. The installation only took about 7 minutes and was SUPER easy. It's an extremely simple yet drastic mod that changes the interior look of your truck.
I ordered 6 WLED-x5 194 lights but you only really need 3. I just wanted extras.
And for the AC/Heater face I used one 74-xHp3.
Here are the pix... Enjoy
Part #'s in case anyone is interested in this mod.

You pull out the bulbs from the original sockets and swap the LED ones in its place.

I don't have any before pix of when the bulbs were green. But it pretty much looks like everyone else's stock Toyota dash lights. I went ahead and took the green covers off those bulbs because I thought it'd leave them white how I wanted them. But soon came to regret that decision. And unfortunately could not put them back on because they were melted onto the bulb over 23 years so needed to be peeled off. This is the outcome of how they look without the green covers.

Ugly I know....

And here are the new led lights installed.
Speedometer:

Climate Control:

Front seat view:

Some more



I really love the way they came out. It looks great. Unfortunately my camera phone picks up a lot of brightness. But don't let the pix fool you it really isn't bright enough to bother someone.

 

Link for the dash lights:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ini-wedge.html

Link for the climate control is on the same page

I didn't get the dome and cargo light leds but if you are interested here is the link for those.
3022-xHP4 is the part # for that bulb
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Ffestoon.html

 

Looks great, man! Very happy you like it. I was thinking red, as I saw that in one and it looks great too... And yet I do also like the white. Then I thought... Hmmm, I should match my stereo(BLUE).... meh, I'll wait til one burns out and then I'll HIT EM UP! haha... But I WILL be using the Festoons for the rear Deck and Dome I'm adding to the rear window wiper motor cover mod

Good of you to post up the links for the goodies, bud! Hope you're all good over there

 

I was Thinking about making one of those installation instructional videos for this for all those people who know know how to get to the dashboard and climate control thing off. It's really really easy. I'm sure i can do it. I'd just need somebody to hold the camera for me. If it only took me about 7-10 min to install and put back together im sure i could do it again while recording and explaining everything i did. Then again there are already a few threads out there for this sort of thing.

BTW CHEF You are able to dim these lights just a tad bit. Not a lot but just enough to make it easier on the eyes. i know that was something that you were concerned about with these LED lights. Next time i go over to your place i'll let ya check'em out.

 

YEAH, ... I'd like to see em, do a side by side maybe, ya know? If you turn the dimmer all the way, they go off, like the Stock???(Think blake answered it... but I forget, hahaha).

Does really look good... And like I told Terry... I can show you how to get creative with tripods to hold your camera, Richard... You can use the passenger seat headrest even, and zoom in just a lil bit while you effortlessly point at the mounting screws, etc... I've even done pics and video of this, I believe... Just not installing lights... It was for a swapping of the Thermometer Gauge and Oil Pressure Gauge of mine that like to bounce around when cold, hahaha....

If you wanna do one, do one, ya know? BUT, if you don't have time right now... WE ALL get that too. I'm not doing a frame up resto, nothing that dramatic... but looking back through my videos, I've done quite a few that I remember people saying, "OMGOSH, THANK YOU, I just couldn't get it!" ....Just like I WAS having trouble before 'getting it' myself, hahaha... Then did the video, voila!

Sadly, another aspect is that MANY people just DO NOT EVER open the book! haha... it has GREAT pics and such.... But alas, a video is DIFFERENT, it just is... especially for people like me, ya know? That's why I LOVE ericthecarguy on Youtube... Look him up and watch his videos, a couple short ones.... He's very good with stabilizing the cam, having good angles... and just a pleasant dude! lol.. Very helpful also... answered me EVERY TIME I asked questions on his thread. He's got the VIDEO TECH STUFF DOWN! ya know?