You'll get there buddy. I remember looking at my engine and feeling so helpless too.

Look on the bright side. At least you only have 1 head to fix. I had 2 heads in my V6 to deal with thus I had to spend x2 on the repairs! All worth it in the end though. Cant wait to see this project of yours get kicked in. Keep up the morale. I currently feel the same way with all the $$$ I still have to spend on my SAS project. Just look through the yotatech pix and that should be motivating enough haha.

 

Thanks for the enthusiasm, i look forward to your sas build.

 

Thats one problem thats easier to wrench on while its still mounted. Hey it could be worse, if you find that in diaper just go ahead and start weeping.

 

The suspension will be here for the frontend monday! Finally my brokea$$ has some parts to put on! Yipee! I checked that rock auto website and was impressed with their selection of brands on parts. I think i will be getting moog or trw balljoints. Once the frontend is back together the engine is ready to go in. Oh yeah i still have to get the diff drop kit unless i can fab one myself.

 

woohoo!!! keep plugging away it will happen!

 

Thats great man. I cant wait to see it all go together.

What diameter/length do the diff drop spacers need to be. I have some stuff here that I might be able to fab something up for you.

I need to come down and see this thing in person!!

 

Im not sure on the diameter and length on the diff drop, but i think we can make something work. Your more than welcome to go south!! Hopefully parts show up tomorrow!!Maybe when i get the engine in ill meet you at harrahs and eat some crab legs!! MMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!

 

Received my spacers , shocks (which look like they suck...pro comp 9000s) and spring spacers for 90-95 rear coils (which i dont need...) Trying to decide how to notch UCA's probalbly my dewalt end grinder with carbide burr bit?? I have a torch but dont want to get them hot and haggard. Sorry no pics, cant find my interface cord for camera and labtop...Never adjusted torsion bars before, or if i need to do some tierod adjustment as well. Ill follow up more and see what i come up with.

 

Not really familiar with that UCA trimming, best low heat method of cutting is the old reliable hack saw. Very cool and accurate.

 

Crab legs ! Yummy.

Those pro comp es9000 shocks are actually a pretty decent shock fr the money. I used to run them on one of my other yotas.

I think the grinder or plasma cutter would work best. I have a plasma if you decide to go that route.

 

I guess the reason i say the pro comps i have arent theat great is because theyre worn out. Ill probalbly ditch them and go with something else thats new or better shape.

Sold some more hedgeposts so i have enough money to order balljoints, diff drop, and sends off my injectors.

As for cutting the UCA's i think using a hacksaw blade would be a great idea in a birthday cake at the penetentiary, but not for this scenario, no room. I do agree with you CO 94 as far as the heat issue.

 

So i started trimming on the UCA's and its really simple. I used a jack to lift the UCA and stuck washers between the arm and frame to hold it up, removed the jack to gain access to trim. And about 20min later i had one side fitting up great with a non haggered trim job that turned out smooth using my metabo and dewalt endgrinder with a carbide burr bit.

 

pictures

 

yea ive seemed to have lost my cord to transfer my pictures from my camera. I installed the passenger side bj lift. Looks much better. Sits level with the rear but im afraid after i install the engine it will sit lower than the rear.So ill have to lower the rear or adjust the torsion bars for the front. The shocks i received off craigslist are procomp e9000s that are for a mild lift and amazingly still kinda work but still suck if that makes sense. On a scale of 1-10 on the mods to the UCA id give it a 4 for the bj install. But im definetly impressed with the height improvement.Ill find that cord and get pics asap!!

 

Whoops i meant on a scale as far as ease of installation.

 

Nice man. Glad everything went together smoothly for you. Cant wait to see All the pictures.

 

Ordered more parts last night...Denso plugs, wix fuel filter, Moog balljoints for the driver side (the side i havent done yet)and a Raybestos stabilizer link kit. First time i ordered from Rockauto, total came to $121 w shipping. If id a ordered from my local store it probalbly would of been close to $200. I plan on getting a new fuel pump, and some new tierod ends as well soon.Im also taking the swaybar off and removing all the rust and repainting it. Also still need to install a diff drop kit from 4crawler.

 

Awesome man. Rock auto has some good stuff and is reasonable. I usually always order parts online anymore. To damn expensive at all the brick and mortar parts stores.

 

Just getting caught up on our thread. Got a little busy on my end but think things are back to normal. I have been finding myself getting alot of parts off of RockAuto and other online stores. Seems like the local part stores stuff is all junk lately and overpriced. With a little searching, I have been able to find factory brand parts online at a much better price as well as the quality.

Even some parts I might get from a salvage yard, I am finding online for what the salvages want for used parts. One guy complained to me that the online stores is killing his business. He wanted $25 for a window regulator and I found it on line for a new one at the same price. They need to realize that not all of their salvage parts isnt made of gold.

 

Totally agree. The local yards here have been raising there prices. Hoods used to be 50$ now they want 75$. And all the local parts stores have so much mark up its not even funny. I used to Manage a Napa over in Bellevue, NE a few years back, and it was absolutley crazy how much mark up there is on parts they sell.