kornhuskerwizard

i guess i have 4.30s!! Thanks KelvinB!

kornhuskerwizard

well i read the fsm procedure on adjusting the valves and when i set the motor at TDC #1 i do not have any movement out of the rockers that are suppost to be adjusted and have some play in them. The fsm says if no play in the rockers to rotate the crank one revolution and recheck the rockers for freeplay which i did and still no movement. I took this rocker assembly off another engine that is in good shape so is it possible that they were previously adjusted in enough that its not giving me any free play??

Does this make sense?? Anyway i didnt do any adjustment yet i wanted some input.

Also the shim behind my cam gear in the fsm is called a thrust washer?? Anyways i installed my distributor and it wouldnt mesh with the cam gear. So i took the thrust washer out of the picture and the distributor slid in nicely. Do i need this thrust washer? and how did it work before? It is possible i got this mixed up with other parts from other engines but im 99% positive i took it off this engine.

kelvinb

if theyre tight, then then you need to adjust them. when i did mine, some were right, tight and to loose. after adjusting them correctly the valvetrain was slightly louder but it was right.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf

3/4 of the way down is the page you want.

kornhuskerwizard

ok i adjusted them tonight, also remembered after looking on my bench that id forgotten to put in the gear that is keyed that runs the oil pump. I went ahead and installed that. received some more gaskets, installed the distributor and rotor. I will install the exhaust manifold and some brackets tomorrow. Ive seemed to misplace the metal plate that sits on the back of the head?? Hopefully i find it, garage is kind of a mess.

Going to order some ball joint spacers from sodori or 4crawler and figure out how much longer shocks i need. Also need a diff drop i beleive this will help the angle of the cvs?

Going to be cold and windy this weekend, burn more wood.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to check about the thrust washer. I am almost positive that you dont need it.

Dont think you will be installing that motor just yet, but I would do my best to get that plate on before putting the motor in. It can be a bear getting that plate on when it is in the truck. It is do able, but something I like to avoid when possible.

kornhuskerwizard

ok are you talking about the water pipe terry??

kornhuskerwizard

Noticed that my larger pickup tube off the 4runner engine is a larger diameter than another one of one of my other engines?? Never ran into this before and beins the one that came off the 4runner whas extremely full of sludge and dirty i was going to use the other one until i realized the 4runner one was larger, more oil flow?? makes sense so i cleaned it up and ran endless cups of diesel and compressed air through it. I also installed my rear main housing, pickup tube, and oil pan. I did some research on sealing the oil pan and found the early 22r used a gasket later 22re uses toyota fipg. It sucks cause i always hear people saying " ya i just ran down to the local toyota dealer and got what i needed" however the closest toyota dealer from my house is over an hour away. Anyways i ended up using a fel pro cork gasket and was easy on the tourqe of it. Ive also been cleaning up brackets and painting some of them too, takes forever!! Wire wheel on the bench grinder helps too. Have the day off paid today so im gonna throw some more logs in the stove beins the thermometer says its 9 degrees out now with a high of 12. Bring it on!

kornhuskerwizard

Took the front axle out. You can tell none of this hardware (bolts n what not) have been untouched which is probalbly why my impact wouldnt even break the cv flange bolts loose. Also popped the drivers cv cap off when i had a prybar in there seperating it from the axle. Hopefully i can reuse it. Gonna take it to the powerwasher along with some engine accesories to be cleaned up. Hopefully this locker wont be to tough to install. Also tryin to find some identification as to what gears is in it. Im assuming as long as im correct on the rear whick KelvinB says is 4.30s due to the blue paint on the 3rd member. The pinion on the front axle nut has no paint color indication but there is a purple paint mark on the drivers side axle flange??Hmmmmm?

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

ChefYota put a tad bit of locktite on the cap and put it right back on. Not sure if he had any issues with it.

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

kornhuskerwizard

Thanks for the input StewsRunner. Sounds like a plan.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I meant the water pipe. Not sure what I was thinking when I said plate. Not sure on identifying the gears.

The way I get the cv bolts broke loose is to take a long wrench and get it on the bolts and nuts to where the wrenchs get against the body in just a particular way and I roll the the truck in the right direction to break them loose. I do have some chalk blocks to keep it from rolling to far. They can be a bear to break loose. Little late now but that might help out on the next time you have to do it if the impact wont break them loose.

Never seen different sized pick up tubes. Dont think it will cause you any problems though.

kornhuskerwizard

Thanks for the input Terry, snowin here now. good day to have fun in the garage!! Anyways yea i had my jackstands rockin when i brokem loose with a breaker bar ratchet and a wrench against the frame, i was like i can see it now.. man gets crushed by toyota on his day off!! that would suck. So i took the front axle out and tore it down starting by taking the drivers axle tobe off, 3 bolts... then i took the front diff cover off and used a small chisel to lightly bump the axles out. I then removed the bearing caps and identifed there positions with a paint marker ( keep all parts in same order and direction!!) I then pulled the bearing caps marked the races and put zip tes around my shims on the housing to keep them in place. After that I realized one end of my pinion shaft was dinged up and I HAVE NO PINION SHAFT RETAINING PIN!! what the heck??!! So i looked in the case and found nothing. I see no damage other than one end of the pinion shaft in the picture you can see, but i should be able to reuse it. Then i removed my ring gear, and took the pinion shaft out to allow me to take spiders and side gears out. Dont lose the thrust washers, you will need to reuse the side gear washers with the locker, the spiders and washers will not be used again. After this i inspected my carrier and bearings, ok... So then i installed the new locker internals which is pretty easy, i didnt even really use the directions which is pretty sad for a guy that would only accomplish a rubiks cube by peeling off and repplying the stickers, after you get the new internals in i checked for clearance between the pinion shaft and locker and had .008 of a inch, specs say .006 - .020. I then installed the four dowel pins and then the springs and caps, be careful... they dont send extras in the kit. All together so far its taken me about a 1hr to get the axle out of the 4runner, and a little over 1hr to put the locker in the carrier. Just need to tourque the ring gear and caps, put the diff cover on and axles in, put it back in the 4runner

kornhuskerwizard

Anyone know where to get a decent price on OME front shocks for 1.5 ball joint spacer lift?? I believe there a nitro charged N98 model, but dunno the part number. Went to OME website and it only let me search through vehicle info search engine and that lead me astray as well. Just need a pair of N98 front shocks... checked ebay too, no luck.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Slee Offroad talk to Amory at amory@sleeoffroad.com

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I dont have any info for you on shocks for OME. You are doing our gears, which is one area I have no experience in and will admit that does intimidate me some. Is it really hard to get everything set up right in those and where do you get your information on setting up the rear end. Gearing is something I am wanting to learn and not just the rear end but want to learn trannys as well.

kornhuskerwizard

As far as "setting up" i would call that doing your preload and setting backlash and checking ring gear to pinion gear mesh. However i didnt mess with any of that. There is a knack to doing that and usually only do that when installing a ring and pinion. What i did didnt require touching any of that so this type of locker you could easily do Terry. If i did do a ring and pinion or a locker that requires what i explained i would need some special tools to check measurements. My girlfreind made me come inside last night or otherwise i would have the frontend assembled back together, Only thing left is the drivers axle housing drivers axle which pops in with a c clip (easy) and the diff cover. This (lunchbox) locker on a scale of 1-10 to INSTALL was about a 3, NOW the PERFORMANCE and DURABILITY ?? he he dunno yet!! Ive heard people knocking the detroit ez locker but i got a good deal on it and i dont plan on abusing this rig just a camping vehicle with a envision of a old town canoe strapped to the top and a six pack in the cooler.

Thanks StewsRunner for the website, ill check that out after work.

Does sdori make bj spacers still??

kornhuskerwizard

DUH! found sdori website i was spelling it wrong!! Either going with 4crawler or sdori 1.5s and a diff drop w OME N98s.Does this sound like a good setup?

kelvinb

yes it does.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

What are you doing for the rear? Sorry if you've already posted that…

kornhuskerwizard

in the rear i made some blocks on my stock leaf springs for now, havent gotten any rear shocks, went to a parts store today and all the had to offer was rough country hydro 8000s, $150 for all four, are these junk?? I held off on getting them to get some opinions, i plan on keeping this vehicle so i want something thats good qaulity that i dont have to replace in 6 months.