kornhuskerwizard

id like to totally eliminate all the emissions crap and get a header too. this thing sat way too long with water setting in it. jackholes werent thinkn but to my advantage its mine for $100. ha ha!!

kornhuskerwizard

this is ridiculous. one of the head bolts broke off so when i tried taking the head off it was a very stubborn process due to the sludge buildup between the broken bolt and the head. after multiple swings of the deadblow i gave up. the next day i decided to hook a chain acrost the head and lifted the engine about 3 inches off the ground with a comealong, never would beleive with the weight of the block it wouldnt pop loose after more beatings with the deadblow. so i did what i really didnt want to do but used a peice of wood and chiseled it between the head and block. ended up destroying that honkytonk tool and went with a long metal chisel and finally had it break loose. sucks. ended up scarring the head surface which i was planning on saving but highly doubtful now. id also like to thank the joker who used the long allenhead intake bolt which i ended up rounding out and using straightjaw visegrips to remove after separating the upper and lower intake which i was trying to avoid.looks like im gonna have to save up$$ to get a new cylinder head. probalbly go with a engnbldr head like i did with my last build. anyone have any suggestions on head and cam comba[IMG][/IMG]nation with a auto trans??

kornhuskerwizard

heres a pic of the block. this thing must have sat along time cause its locked up like a texas prison.

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kornhuskerwizard

took a head in decent condition off a 22r i had lyin around, ill have the machine shop check it out. timing cover looks good too so i can reuse it too.alls i had for engine paint was blue, yuck. but i didnt have to pay for it so for someone as broke as me, lt. dan said.. thats good.. swapped over some sensors, ill swap over brackets and motor mounts tonight. maybe clean up and paint the oil pan.[IMG][/IMG]

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kornhuskerwizard

Took the cylinder head to the shop saturday, bad news...crack on number 3 cylinder. that wasnt what i wanted to here but better than risking it and just putting it on. DANG!!

kornhuskerwizard

saving up for new head. prob go with engnbldr with bigger valves and different cam. any suggestions??

kornhuskerwizard

engnbldr offers there stock replacement head for $348 without cam, or the street rv for $100 more with bigger ports, says 6-10% drop in gain.

yeh...looked at lc eng website, no way in hell i can afford this stuff...street head $500 to $600 almost $1000 for a pro head. thats more $$ than i have in the entire build including the price of the 4runner!!

Ridiculousness. ok might as well get something done. back to the garage

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

You're making good progress, I like the paint scheme on your rig.

Nice win by the Huskers yesterday, hope they win the B1G championship this year (huge Buckeye fan here).

kyleb57

To bad it still smells like mice were makin babies and not g.a.f....but it'll roll someday

kornhuskerwizard

what do you expect? it sat in a feild for years and was abandoned like davey jones pirate ship. nothin 10000 tree air fresheners cant fix.

should have enough $$ for new cylinder head this month. ill get headbolts and a gasket kit and engine will be ready to go. hope the trannys good.

kornhuskerwizard

ive been bored waiting for $$ to get my cylinder head so i built these (i know.. dont even say it) BLOCKS for the rear out of 2x3 steel. they are drilled and have a plug on bottom to keep them in place. tightened the u bolts and they seem like theyll work for what i want with what i have to work with. raised the rear three inches, driveshaft on rear has slid back about 1 3/8 of an inch. drained the rear fluid cause i expected it to be like everything else OLD AND RUSTY, and amazingly the fluid looked great as well as the front diff.the tranny fluid looks clean and smells NOT burnt.maybe theyres hope yet! im gonna go ahead and extend the diff breathers too, seems easy. i hope i dont have to buy the toyota fitting, hopefully the local parts store can get me a barbed male fitting with the correct thread.

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kornhuskerwizard

scored one chrome bezel front marker, one black bezel front marker, drivers tailight and both turn signals all from the attic. score! before and after...[IMG][/IMG]
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dont make fun of the rose decal on the back glass. need a razor and scrape that off.

kornhuskerwizard

heres the rear , still need a left one and the bulb dividers too.

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also have the oe rear mudflaps to match the fronts.

kornhuskerwizard

heres some pics of the rear qaurters, have a pretty hard time in nebraska finden them without it.

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kornhuskerwizard

the rust i mean...duh!!! does anyone know if they make replacement rear qaurters?? or do i just get flares?? id rather have the factory look.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I just found your build when I looked under your statistics. Will be checking it out when I get home later today.

jason in tn

When I replaced mine I got stuck cutting quarters off another runner, nobody makes a full metal quarter there is a place that makes patches. Slacker is a member on here he makes fiberglass quarter not sure on the price but they are pretty sweet.

kornhuskerwizard

Been awhile since ive posted sorry, couldnt even find my build thread til Terry helped me out, thanks Terry!!

Well I found a used head in my garage actually two that seem like theyre ok. I degreased and cleaned up the one i decided to use.I found no cracks, and it shows no signs of warpage, cam also moved freely before i decided to remove it and check the cam caps, nice n smooth. I took the walves out and cleaned them up as well as replace the valve seals w some Viton seals i found in some gaskets. I decided to go with a Fel Pro headgasket, Fel Pro head bolts, found a good timing cover in garage, ordered teds timing chain kit w steel drvrs rail, and i think i have most all other gaskets from previous builds. Im using a Aisin oil pump and water pump that i found in garage too. Im real happy how its comin along as for most of my parts i havent had to go out and buy. As soon as the timing kit comes it should all come together smoothly. I got bored and painted the oil pan.

Im trying to decide on how to assemble this as far as putting head on before the timing cover or putting the timing cover and timing kit in first. Just dont wanna screw up the front of the new headgasket with the timing cover. Ted suggested as putting the head on first.Also made sure i am using all correct bolts on the oil pump, and timing cover and correct tourqe specifications.Im also assuming to install the headgasket clean and dry on surfaces correct??Maybe a little rtv where timing cover mates to head at corners.

I traded two offroad lights for a set of aluminum directionals 15x10 with some used 32inch bfg tires. not bad. Im also getting a new fuel pump suggested by Terry off ebay for around $30. Napa quoted me $120 for a Bosch, so i guess im gonna go with my budget and get the one Terry suggested.

I still need some 1.5 balljoint spacers for the front and was wondering if i need the diff drop kit??

Also does anyone have a suggestion as where to get a new or used tps sensor?? Ive been seeing them for around $60 or $70 bones?? Id rather go with a scrap yard special sensor for $5!!

kornhuskerwizard

ok, gonna go ahead and install the cylinder head tonight, timing kit will hopefully be here tomorrow.

So im setting the crank gear dimple straight down with #1 piston at TDC.Cam gear alignment dowel straight up then i can snug the head down without damaging any valves.Only problem i see is getting the timing cover on without damaging the head gasket.

Kinda skeptical on tourqing it down until i know i can get the cover on without messing the headgasket

kornhuskerwizard

so i decided to install the head, torqued the cam caps to 15ft lbs, installed rocker assembly, and put a thin coat of oil when installing head bolts but only started them aways in case i need to lift the head slightly to get the timing cover on without interfering with the head or headgasket.i also noticed on the cam gear a shim on it?? is this the same thickness as the peice that runs the fuel pump on a carbed engine?? thats what i assume. i took apart the engine that came out of the runner to get the rear main housing off to reuse.My lord!!! never seen a more horrible scene when i removed the oil pan. I also inspected the balancer shaft, ill clean it up with some emery cloth. Enough for this evening time to hit the hay.