thanks Hab, the missus is helping when she can..hard with the grandminion around too
i have done both! the demo hammers have make it easier.
I worked for a local high end pool company in Clackamas off and on for 15 years. Probably worked on 150-200 I am so happy that company didn't build this one. I am hitting rebar but only about a third of the amount we installed.
I worked on a few east of the Cascades, several around Sisters, Bend etc. It is definitely warmer there than the Willamette Valley. Helped to remodel Lehman Hotsprings (east of Ukiah) probably 20 years ago. It has since closed down The fires were so bad over there the forest service had us wait for a few weeks so they could use it as a possible water source to refill helicopter buckets.

 

Finally had an afternoon off and decided to make some junk.
I have been going back and forth about using a set of ditch lights. No one made a kit for 2nd gens that I was aware. Plus I try to make crap for this POS when I can.
Finally caved and decided to see what I could come up with. Didn't really want to swiss cheese the A pillar or pop the windshield vent to run wires etc.
I had some left over aluminum from the 8020 roof rack project. Looked at a spare mirror and saw the 3 screw holes.



Took a few minutes to see what I could come up with.
Not too bad for V1.0. I could use a couple of longer bolts for each side. But overall i am happy with how it came out. And I am into the mounts for about $5
Lights are some Run-D 35w LED's off Amazon

 

i seen you post those pics on facebook of your ditch lights, didn't realize it was you lol

 

At my buddy Phil's suggestion I tried to level the 2nd gen 4runner mirror mounted ditch light bracket out a bit.
I tried bending the bracket in the vice but the 2.5" x .25" thick bracket just didn't want to adjust using the vice and tools I had on hand.
1st version on top
2nd version on the bottom
So the next option was to use some nylon inserts I had in the fastener bin
Drilled them out to work with M5 bolts and sanded them down to a close height.
Not perfect but way better than bolting straight to the mirror

 

been working on the pool on my days off so still haven't touched the 4runner

I did wander down to my neighbor's garage sale to look at a tiller that I would need.

ended up walking home with a gently used cordless 40v Ryobi cordless chainsaw with a couple of batteries. I had priced one at home depot, couldn't really justify the $200 for one. I picked this one up for $35
Plans are to make this my trail chainsaw. in the PNW you get downed trees blocking trails sometimes. I have a 18" gas saw but it is sort of a PITA. If I end up having to cut more stuff out of the way that the batteries won't last for it is probably time to turn around.

 

Nice ditch lights and Ryobi find!

 

Did a little revamp on the roof rack. Using 8020 makes an old fart feel like kid with an erector set again.
Version 1.0 was only about 34" wide and was very low to the roof. That was fine but difficult to get bungee cords/rope around a crossbar. It was also a bit narrow.
Version 2.0 is 38" wide, 72" longand sits about about 1" above the roof line. May not seem like much but will be better in the long run.

Version 1.0 34" wide

Version 2.0 38" wide

 

Last summer I picked up a set of 2008 Forester power leather and heated seated to put in the 4runner. Surprisingly 3 out of the 4 Subaru mounts line up perfectly with 3 of the 2nd gen 4runner mounts.
The seats are in great shape, downside they are tan. For the price I paid a U-Pull It I figured i could experiment with the seats like i have pretty much done my whole driving life. In my Air Cooled V-Dub days I used vinyl dye several times, even on leather. Ordered a can of Charcoal Rustoleum on Amazon and shot one of the headrests with it.

3rd pic shows the tan against the stock door panel and the sprayed headrest again against stock vinyl.

It came out pretty good so decided to take the plunge and see how the passenger seat would come out. Doing several light coats and waiting awhile between each one it's looking pretty good.




ordered 4 more cans off amazon.
That should be enough to finish off the seats.

 

Best part, when the color fades you can just refresh!

 

Had a couple of hours to waste so Did some miscellaneous crap on the 4runner.
Decided to try the @rammounts tough track mounts. These are cool as you can slide the mount around and have as many mounts on the track as you can stuff in there.

I installed a set of 8" LED's but they were blocking my Truck-Lite led signals so swapped them with some 5" 80w lights.

 

So I have gadgetitis pretty bad. I order junk try stuff and change my mind quite a bit as you can probably see from the various redoing of junk on this truck.
One thing I was looking for as far as a tie down solution on the roof rack was something that would be quick and easy and work with the slots of the 8020 strut crossbars on the roof rack.
Ordered a couple of sets of these Ram Mounts that are designed for their tough track system. I think they are more geared towards use in a kayak but figured I would give them a shot.
I don't think you can put a huge amount of pressure on them but they slid right into a piece of 8020 and they will easily slide to where you want them to go so for a light load using a bungee cord they should do the trick.

 

One of my favorite things about your builds is the way you think things up, then put thisses and thatses together in new and interesting ways to make those things happen. I also like how you're always rethinking and coming up with different ideas as you go along. I don't even have a second gen or a trekker but both threads are still chock full of good information and usable ideas. Excellent work!

And nice phone background.

 

Great info! I was looking into some of those pricey seat covers but this sounds even better. Are they comfortable? Electric or manual adjust? 4th mount in a drillable location?

 

Thanks Habanero!
both are heated, d/s is power. The inside rear mount may be a matter of cutting it off, looks like there is enough material to drill a mount into the tunnel. But I would prefer to get it close to the original mount to use the factory bolt hole.

I had been beating my head about trying to get the mirror mounted ditch light wiring to work but no luck so I ordered a set of Apoc Industries mounts. Great service with free shipping. They mount under the hood to a fender bolt. Will run the wiring under the vent cowel



I got a smoking deal on a set of rigid DOT compliant Fog lights off t4r.org. mounted them on the bottom of the bumper

Other than wiring I am done with switching crap out lighting wise on the front

Finished the last touch utouch spraying the Forestor seats. I am pretty happy how they came out. Parked my butt in the seat, the spray didn't crack so that was a good sign



For a little safety measure I added a Gerber Military issue seat belt cutter/glass breaker to the sun visor

 

Seats look awesome. Great job

 

Yea, sweet, might have to follow your lead here. Post up whatever you end up doing for the 4th mount and wiring! Subaru forums say 20 amp fuse, not bad

 

Thanks!
that is good to know about the fuse size. I have a Blue Sea aux fuse box I can tie the seat power into

I will let you know what I end up on the mount

 

I have been thinking about getting a mount like this, does your hood rub on them when opening/closing?

 

no rubbing!
https://apocindustries.com/collectio...t-mounts-89-94

 

Was looking at something to use as some daytime running lights.
Baja Designs S1's would be awesome since they are very small but at almost $200 a pair hard to justify. Found a set of little 2x2 24w pods on Amazon that have some great reviews.
Cut down a set of extra amber covers. Pattern came out pretty good. Not bad for a 30 minute and $30 experiment
Will probably stuff them under the winch plate