Originally Posted by dbd6604 (Post 52286847)

Nice! I just bought a '95 4Runner about 3 weeks ago, it had those exact same floor mats in it when I got it. :D

Originally Posted by habanero (Post 52286858)

More an overlander, eh? Love the color, looking forward to the occasional update. :)

Originally Posted by rattlewagon (Post 52286859)

Love a good 2nd gen build! The body on that truck look great for 195K

Originally Posted by rustED (Post 52286994)

Nice score, looks like a clean rig to start with, look forward to seeing some updates!

Originally Posted by muddpigg (Post 52286998)

Cool deal, should be a fun build. Might need to chuck that auto. Will be fun to watch.

Originally Posted by Terrys87 (Post 52287255)

Great looking runner you have. I am always amazed at how well the 2nd gens interiors and exteriors hold up for their age. That is one of the lower mileage 2nd gens I have seen. Every one I see has more mileage then that around here. It is a tank on wheels. Never had a truck with automatic locking hubs but cant see it being much different.

Everyone calls them the 3 slow but it is the transmission that slows down the truck. Before I found Yotatech I had a 3.0 with a 5 speed transmission and felt it had plenty of power. A year or two ago I got a recall on the Steering Relay Rod (I think that is the correct name) and Toyota was still honoring it after all this time. Toyota will be able to tell you if if needs done by the VIN.

Wish we had Pic and Pull with 50% off sales in my area.

Originally Posted by kawazx636 (Post 52287277)

I guess I have to watch this one too! Don't let me down Robb!

Originally Posted by muddpigg (Post 52287355)

Buddy of mine had the 3.0 and raved how nice it felt with 5 spd pushing 37 boggers with 5:29 gears.

You know how it goes if it ain't broke don't fix it

Originally Posted by Scalded_Dawg (Post 2008570)

Current project: 140A alternator swap
Stock alt is only 60A, so in my research I found that this alt from a '95th Cadillac Eldorado is a really close fit and puts out 140 amps.
Cadillac 's Toyota alt
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...2d027186c8.jpg

You can see the mount config is really close with the 12 and 6 o'clock bolt pattern. The separation of the holes is about 3/8" bigger on the Cady alt. And the overall girth of the Cady alt requires mod of the lower adjustment bracket to be longer and with a slight angle in the middle. I extended the lower adjustment bracket about 4.75"

Also the top mount is about 1/4" smaller on the Cady alt so a shim was built out of washers.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...9deb9075cd.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...366e5ab766.jpg

Initial belt alignment looks good.

Still have to get a longer belt and final assembly to complete. Will update this post with those details.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...c9b917cfcb.jpg

Originally Posted by Scalded_Dawg (Post 2010443)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...fe1e632e78.jpg

This is what my lower bracket ended up being... 4.75" longer with an angle at the joint.
Hard to tell in the pic but I set the stock arm to the engine forward side of the extension. Effectively spacing the arm forward 1/4". This was needed to lay flat against the alternator face.

Originally Posted by Scalded_Dawg (Post 2010581)

All finished up:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...291c61fe29.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...1291a51593.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...e9d9b8d4ac.jpg

The belt part number I ended up with...it was actually hard to find a 4 rib belt at this length. Belt tracks real nice with only a tiny bit of vibe when revving it up.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d683d1ea27.jpg

Fired it up and ran all the lights and all the power windows at once... Didn't even flicker. Huge improvement. Now I have no fear of wheeling and winching at night with all the lights on.

Originally Posted by Peevedkitten (Post 2076868)

Here ya go! Part # W1232 Alternator Wiring Harness Adapter. converts CS130 or CS144 4 pin Plug to Toyotal Oval Style Alternator Plug

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...l/D11873.2.JPG

Originally Posted by Psilosin (Post 51487660)

OK I think I am at the end of the journey for the BJ spacer/Landcruiser Coil lift. Learned some good lesons along the way...the least of which is to take internet advice with caution since I ended up wasting time and money on incorrect part numbers.

To sum up my lift:
Front:
4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers
Procomp +2" shocks for Toyota pickup (part# 917514)

Rear:
2x LEFT rear Landcruiser Coil (so they were the same size since LC coils are different length right and left since there were complaints that lift was also unequal if the unequal coils used) (*see note under issues below)
4Crawler 4" Panhard Drop bracket
4Crawler 4" Brake Valve Proportioner bracket (but later redrilled to 3")
Rancho 9000 series Landcruiser rear shocks (part# RS999208) (I chose these because they have a stud top like stock...some of the other recommended shocks (ie procomp 922506) were eyelet and would require an adapter to fit...and the adapter required moding the mount so you could never go back to stock)

Issues:
After all is said and done the left rear of the vehicle is higher than the right rear by 3/4". Only reason I can think of is that the LC coils are soft enough that the extra weight of the gas tank on teh right side is the culprit. Any ideas on other possible causes??? If my hunch is correct then I would recommend going with the left and right LC coils and using the longer on the right rear...

Getting my new tires and alignment tomorrow...will post pics after...right now I still have the 235/75/R15 winter tires on and it looks goofy...

Originally Posted by 9164RUNNER (Post 51715581)

Well here's my rig with LC coils and 35" Pro comps

http://a2.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/i...772285f9/l.jpg

Originally Posted by DetroitStyle (Post 51859238)

Quick ? about the Panhard drop bracket from 4Crawler. I'm doing LC80 coils. Did you guys just go with the 4" bracket? Or the custom one?

Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR (Post 51914728)

Figured I could add my .02 to this thread now.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/IMG_1744.jpg

This is EVERYTHING you need to lift a 2nd gen 4Runner.

1.5" BJ spacers
FJ80 Coils
Trailgear Brake Line
Skyjacker front shocks -SKYH7054
Skyjacker Rear Shocks - SKYH7024
4Crawler 4" Panhard
4Crawler 4" LSPV

Total cost:
~$250 including the 35 dollar rebate on the shocks and the 20% on sale.

Hope this helps... pictures will be posted when the lift is done.

Originally Posted by 4Crawler (Post 51955224)

A front diff. drop kit can help as will keeping the front ride height as low as you can. The diff drop is really important if you find the CV joints you have are binding at full droop and you can check that doing installation:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ffDropSymptoms

Not all CVs are created equal. Some can handle more angle than others. With the front/outer CVs, they have to handle not only up/down suspension travel but also side-side steering angle. So if you have a set of CVs that can't handle the combination of angles and bind up, things go boom. If the CVs can handle the angles, then they are usually happy. It all depends on how far the grooves that the ball bearings fit into are ground. If you think of the stock height condition, Toyota probably spec'd some many degrees of angularity so that is likely what many CVs are made to operate. But some may have a few extra degrees of grooves machined in. And probably no way to tell which CV joint will work better than another other than finding a pair that last a long time.

But the bigger CV killer is what else you do with the lift. If you do the lift to fit taller tires, that is one factor, bigger tires = more load on the CVs. Then if you are doing the lift and tires for off-roading and you throw in a front locker, that is also more load on the CVs.