I finished the compilation of pix and videos of last weekend's Big Bear Ca Off-Road trip.

Enjoy

 

Those CRV motors are awesome. K24 has a good torque for those vehicles

 

Awesome job, Richard! A lot of fun to watch... Thanks for doing a shorter version! Hahaha. Although I watched money again last night on my big screen... That was fun. As long as you have YouTube on your DVD player or have your TV touch to your computer, I just linked to my phone to my TV and BAM, it was really fun to watch and pause!

FRM, it's an amazing little motor. Around 100000 miles & not a single hiccup except for some oil sending unit drama. The seals can blow up on those. BUT, they put in the upgraded one and I haven't had a problem since. Tons of power and plenty of cargo space... Even the looks have grown on me a little bit... I do like the new ones better though. Supposedly they even have a better motor... Not a walk backwards like many companies do as those cars go through the generations .

Terry, thank you so much man! I looked up those threads and I do see a point where that could help me with the headlight portion... As far as the blinkers I still need to understand exactly how that works. I can see the arm is like a T, lower case "t".... But, I really still have no idea if I can get in there and clean something up. I've seen those three wires that connect into the connector already come with the pins attached... That part is good, but I still don't know if it's short in the wiring for the actual mechanism is causing the problem. If its the mechanism/ Electronics portion within the arm socket, then replacing the arm isn't going to cut it. I've been running around like a chicken with. my head cut off, so I need to just get out there and pull the wheel or at least the covers to get a good look and see if I see any birth con tax. I'm still not sure the wiring isn't a problem at the light some cells. They all feedback to that portion. Since I left turn and right turn seem to be on different contacts... I'm still suspicious of that. I'm not sure I'm talking lights with stopping short it's a short in the wiring which is shorted to something... Holy crap that sounds confusing but I think you understand what I mean ...

RAD, this above is all for you as well... And thanks to you, also, for always being such a big help!

If I missed something that I was supposed to respond to, I apologize... I'm glad some people have enjoyed that video.... It was so much fun, it really helps to look back through and see different lines I could have taken as well. Next time 100 percent for sure I am taking the line to the drivers left on the top of John Bull / first incline. I should've tried it this time, but considering Richard was behind me, I really didn't want to hold things up again. I'm positive I can get up that... I think I could have done it the first time, but I definitely should have gotten up and taking a look for myself. That's not a dig on Ruben at all. If he wasn't there I probably would've wound up flipping or something! Lol... But there's just certain things you know what your truck can do and you have to take a look for yourself. You have to be very patient on that one because if you try to just got it and for low standard transfer case, you're probably come down and smash something hard on the second set of rocks..... Anyway, I might be up there in the next couple weeks anyway for a friends wedding. If so I will definitely be hitting the trails! but, that time I would probably just take Van Deusen directly to John Bull Trail.

Rad, is it possible that the problem is still in the relay, however intermittent it might be? There was a point if you remember during the trip that when I put both signals on they were both bright as hell. Red wagon can testify to that. Then, by the next morning, drama again. It was really cold and a lot of ice and moisture overnight... I'm just wondering if I like something that I've read I have a problem with corrosion in the kick panel fuse block related to the flasher relay. The only thing that tells me otherwise is that my same lever has a problem with the high beams constant portion of the switch. So I will probably pull the relay just to clean everything up in there to make sure... But I think first I need to get into the lever itself, and all of its apparatus therein.

 

Update!......soon, lol. Have to get home... Really spotty connection. I think I found the problem to my turn signals drama... Feel free to go ahead and guess until I get back! Lol...

 

Today, I dug in to my turn signal drama... I pulled the horn top and the column cover, and I've never seen so much of a dust bunny convention in my life! Here you can see the back of the left lever / turn signal/headlight combination stalk and encapsulated portion behind it.... This was completely covered to where you couldn't see anything, even the soldering points and especially not that covered portion which I'm assuming is for the signals/ positive portion of the circuit...



When you lift the lever to turn the signals a little spring loaded button on the opposite side of the steering wheel goes in and out of these valleys ( looks pretty much like a Trail Gear logo)... That is the clicking you here as you turn the signal from left to center to right.... In the center, its a larger Valley which doesnt allow that button to be depressed all. As you go to the right or the left with the lever, the little spring loaded button makes contact by actually pressing in, pretty much the opposite of the door ajar button... From what I know that is how to switch ground works within the signal.

Here is the horn connector, and the threaded hole when you remove the screw and then slide the horn cover over the top and off...







I used a toothbrush and quite a bit of this to get everything cleaned up with in the stone column Electrical...



At some point, I realized that I needed to get the steering wheel puller, but just by happenstance, I did not have a parts runner... While I waited for the Honda to come back, something had been gnawing on me all day in regards to, "What have you most recently dug into, Mark? What did you actually mess with last before heading up to Big Bear?"... I realized that in spite of all the electrical I've been doing, I never really messed with any of the circuits related to the turn signals... In fact, the problems I'm having are all tied together with the engine fuse circuit within the driver side kick panel fuse block... Nothing I've added is tied to that stuff. I jumped off the dome circuit and the defog circuit... That's it. Suddenly, that knocking on my noggin literally forced me to get out of the truck and start investigating the trailer wiring connector and everything related... Before I left on the trip I tied the trailer connector to the bumper in a way that it wouldn't be dragging on the ground or fall loose or hang up on something and rip out from the driver side tail lights...

As I started digging into that trailer wiring connector, which I would have sworn it was disconnected, I got 10.5 volts at the turn signal pin in that connector... As I was inspecting it, I bent the wiring a little bit away from the back of the connector housing, which is like a metal lighter socket, and I saw this...( keep in mind, this is after I've cut it away, which all cleaned up now ... But look at how to of the positive wires are completely bare )....





Trimmed back, and every single wire hereafter was heat shrink covered and capped.....



The problem appears to be gone...


I had plenty of other video showing how I was testing the trailer circuit at the trailer wiring connector... Along with other video showing how to turn signal worked and so forth... I accidentally deleted them.... ... sorry... I'm going to check the recycle bin or whatever of my phone... But I think they're gone. I was hoping to share that as it made a lot more sense of address again, just how everything works in there.

************************

PS: I completely forgot about 10 times now to post pictures but answer the question about my tires...

 

so it was an old trailer wiring connector out back?
well boss i can say those wires look JUST like the oil sender wire ive had issues with corroded black an green in the insulation

glad ya found it!

ooh nice rubber SHINY!

 

Problem solved! It makes sense because trailer wiring often gets abused, and that was one of the last things you messed with - LOL!

 

Only time will tell if I have to tear into the combination switch section in the steering column... But I really really doubt that has anything to do with it. I ran the signals for about 20 minutes all together this evening... While turning hard and pressing the brakes, etc. Not a single hiccup!

I also cleaned up everything really well like you can see in that one picture, and I tested the high beam constant on switch and could not get it to act up. I'm not sure, so I sent time will definitely tell that as well. If that persists, the text about 10 minutes max to get the steering wheel off and all the covers. As soon as stuffers its head I'm going right at it from now on when it comes to that crap. I mean that kind of stuff to lead to a fire... For now all the wiring is cleanly capped and when I am ready for a trailer I will simply wire up a new connector...

Thanks again, so much, Ray! I can't begin to explain how critical your help was and is.

 

Anytime I have an electrical issue to deal with, the first things I check is the stereo harness and see if it is done with an adapter plug or someone hardwired it in. The other area is the trailer wiring. There are kits for both. I suggest wiring it back to orginal and get this kit below for $20. It works great and solves all the other issues for me. When you first hook up a trailer the lights wont light up immediatley. It is like it is charging some capacitor or something. It takes a few seconds to activate, but you will see what I mean when a trailer is hooked up.


PN# 43315.

 

Hmmm,.... mine has 6 wires... how comeses uncle Terry? Haha. .. No, but seriously though... Why!?!? Hahaha...

As far as my stereo, it is hardwired and with an adapter plug... I soldered the Toyota OE connector to the stereo I got just last year. As a matter of fact I believe I got it for myself for my birthday? By the way, those Polk 690DXi's? LOVE them!

One of my future Electrical involved steps is too change my 1- 2 Channel amp that is going to my sub, alone, to a 5 channel for all 5 speakers. I have high end Blaupunkt 4 inch in the dash, hi end Polk Audio in the rear and the 10 inch JL Audio competition sub in the rear as well....

I have a 4 Channel right now sitting in my garage, but I don't want to run 2 amps....I just want to remain with one 5 channel under the passenger seat. I even thought about moving that into the panel, but I think it breathes better under the seat!

My birthday is Thanksgiving Day this year, so I'm trying to think up A good story to get my dad in the truck with me just to go on a little mild putt putt run around body beach in Lake Havasu. But if he doesn't want to I'm not going to give him any hassle about it. I just think that would be so great to get him out of the house and doing something he used to really love....

My dad was the biggest auto buff out of all of my families or friends families lives.... He said everything from hypo 240Z's, to a 1960's XJ-12, Goldwing Mercedes, a 40's MG Conv., A early 60's Mercedes hardtop convertible that one many shows, A built V8 equipped 60's bright orange VW squareback, and then he started getting into four wheel drives... And he had one of the sickest 92 Broncos, Eddie Bauer version, with everything... Man was that thing clean. .... The cars are countless but he had tons of Toyotas, including 3 Toyota Cressidas of three different generations.... Of course, what I miss more is just seeing him out and active... I understand that he's older and he's feeling it... Its just sad when you know that they would feel so much better if they just did a little bit more to get the heart going and so forth. Kind of defeating himself, in other words... It's tough. But I gotta give him props, he did go to the Bahamas with mama Sue... I couldn't believe my stepmother got him out there... And it's awesome. Of course before they even got back he said he had a good time but he's never going to do it again. I told her, "You get his ass to Graceland next year!" They are both big Elvis fans hahaha.

 

So we see you got the km2's, which I thought were totally BA on my Runner and my '83(sometimes wish I'd kept them instead of the at's), but why? Were your km1's starting to crack and dry rot?

 

I am not 100% sure, but on my 3rd Gen and other trucks that have the big barrel connector like that in our part of the country, usually means electric power for trailer brakes. I only see that on heavy trailers or trailers that pull heavy loads.

My camper has trailer brakes. I never see that style plug on light duty trailers. I am guessing it is for trailer brakes.

Does your have a box on the dash area, that is used for setting how hard the brakes apply on the trailer.

Would look similar to this.


Here is my connector on the 3rd Gen Runner. Seems I have seen round pins as well. My 3rd Gen is set to pull heavy trailers with electric brakes on them. I also have the 4 prong plug like pictured above tapped into the barrel plug.

 

No, the tires are in actually excellent shape... The rears are about 70 percent still in the front we're getting pretty low. I just wanted to start fresh and have good spares. To be honest, I want to save the KM 1's

Ahhhhhh! Great mind ya gotz! Never got of that. ... No, no trailer box on the desk... However, he may very well have removed it. There is a switch, a tiny toggle, and I've never figured out what it is. I'm going to trace it down soon.

New round are stainless....

Btw, pictures when I get home of the completely rusted bolt on the roof rack... Going to stop today and quickly swap those out for Stainless! I think Big Bear is what really did it because of the ice build up... The problem with allen bolt is they are the cavity on top... If you're going to use them you have to use stainless, I can't imagine what they would look like back east!

 

The 6 wire plug is usually used on larger trailers with electric brakes or on trailers with separate brake lights or on trailers where there is a need to charge a "house" battery in a camper or a trolling motor/live well Battery in a fishing boat.

European trailers are usually a 6 wire plug because they require separate turn signal/brake lights under their MOT rules.

Glad you found your problem Mark... it's nearly always something small and stupid like that when it comes to intermitant faults... hope you get your dad out for a boot to the beach...

 

cool video. Nice to see the 4runner out Mark.

 

Thanks Aaron! .... Yeah, been wheelin hard last couple years, as much as I could get away. That's increasing quite a bit as time goes on! Haha... Got a couple trips I'm hoping to hit coming up, soon. I'm definitely planning on going to Keough and Benton Hot springs this winter, asap.

Loving my rig big time! .... gave her a bath today after filthy'n her up in Big Bear....





Earlier, I had 'frost king'd' & 'Thermoshield'ed' my floor and firewall...



And I took a shot of the trailer connector I cut off.....



I'm hoping that cleaning up McCollum electronics and removing this and tying it up cleanly will be the solution to my problem for good...

I hope everyone is well I wish you all a very Happy Thanksgiving! Looks like I'm taking my break so hopefully I'll get some good pictures and video.

 

ooooo so shiny. How much was that thermoshielding? noticed any difference yet?

 

Looks similar to Terry's ^^
Just need to research pin-outs, test that each of those 6 wires are getting what they should be getting, clean contacts and reconnect wires to connector.

bbrideau,
After I saw that Mark got his from Pep Boys, I also thermoshielded mine on firewall and, floors above the exhaust and over the tranny hump.
I can feel significant difference between temp of bare floor and above the thermoshield.
Thermoshield also helps sound-proof, on top of sound deadener like Dynamat, fatmat or Peel & seal.

 

Thermoshield is available at Pep Boys for I believe $40 for a 4 by 6 slab. Maybe its 8 feet... I can't remember. Either way, compared to other products after reading the specs, I was very impressed with the price and the fact that I could pick it up down the street in the store rather than wait for it to be delivered. My entire cargo area is covered on the floor with frost King foil backed closed cell foam self-adhesive padding: and thermoshield... It's absolutely incredible on keeping the noise down and equally or more important at some times, keeping the cold off my back when I camp back there. I also have the panels insulated with sound deadening and frost King... That was equally as helpful with sound and climate control... At Pismo, recently, it got pretty cold at night and I was so warm I couldn't even keep my sleeping bag on... The only thing left to do is the doors up front and the back door. I have to ground the rear window switch and roll up the window so I can get some sound deadening and frost King in there as well. I love it, to answer your question in three words!

 

She looks nice and clean Mark... enjoy your trip...