Heading off to get the compression tester again, ...just for the heck of it. Haven't done it in 3K, and I suppose it couldn't hurt. Plus, this 'TICK' appeared and has now gotten worse LONG AFTER the last compression test I did.

*** could anyone tell me if a wrist pin causing this(I know, it seems unlikely) would show up in a compression test?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>

At this point, I'm going to have to address;

1) the front main seal leak.
2) leak from the bell housing(Could be both the rear main and trans main seals....but I KNOW the trans is leaking)
3) Oil pan leaks(they're minor, but I'm pulling the front diff anyhow, right? lol
4) Swapping in the new diff's and locker
5) AT LEAST pull the rocker assembly(have it inspected/replace, if any, damaged/faulty'z
6) Probably pull the head/Swap the head with a engnbldr Street RV(or at least have my verified "GOOD TO GO"
7) Figure out why I'm pulling to the left when braking(MIGHT be replacing the Master, anyhow, as it's Orig. and possibly leaking a lil bit)... All rotors, calipers, rears are new and wearing really well...>???? lol

I guess I would go from there, right? That's why I figured I'd test the compression, first, today. If it gives me "OOOOH, that's really low" signs, .... then, well, I might as well pull the freakin motor, eh????

I was going to replace the EGR just to rule it out(as per Ted's thinking), but.... I will re-test it again, today, and verify(hopefully ONCE AGAIN) that it's working, using the vacuum pump test. I might as well yank it and clean it out again..... but as I remember from reading for HUNDREDS OF HOURS on here, hahaha.... "EGR's don't usually fail, and if they pass the tests, CLEAN EM UP and slap em back in!"... right??????????

 

chef on the egr i would just block it off and see how it runs. its pretty easy to do, on the back of the intake where it mounts just unbolt then cut a piece of soda can to fit in there over the hole and bolt it back on clampint the piece between the egr and the intake blocking the hole. mine was making my engine miss. then if it runs better you can go from there.

 

ohh and even if they test good with vacumm they can still leak when closed, I cleaned mine as best i could and it still wasnt closing all the way making it miss at idle. I still havent got a new on yet but will need to get it fixed before next smog.

 

Thanks, Cougar! Yeah, I've done that before, didn't make any real difference. I'll try it again though, as this is 3K miles later, and I've got all kinds of new vermin running about in there! hahaha.....


BTW, guess what I found? A FULL SET OF 8 OEM ROCKERS that a buddy, Andy, gave to me several months ago...... Andy(aka Flecker), whom helped me hands on over 20 hours(helped pull and swap the old cam/w/261 and helped me, earlier on, diagnose EVERYTHING on this truck, many times, over 1.5 days!)>>, and wouldn't even take LUNCH for it.... he also gave me the set of Rockers. Fairly certain they're OEM, Japan, and they have the lil (I-1, I-2, etc. for numbering each rocker in your assembly).. .and they are all in great shape. Not sure if it would pose a problem to put some of them in while I have this other CAM I've broken in with the ones I have now???

I'm loading a couple videos, I'll put them in the next post.

PS> I rented a compression tester, ...... I think it's DOA, ....the thing wont go over 120# on any of the first 3 holes I tried. I CAN NOT get the thing to screw in to the point that it's tight... which I guess would explain why it's not 'reading more than 120#. GOOD GRIEF! Gimme a break~! lol.

 

 

You might check the hoses from the smog pump and egr for leaks .It may be starting when the emission components start working.
If I am repeating what has been said already ,it is because I haven't had chance to read everything.

 

Don't worry about repeating anything, SF, ...would NOT be the first time, and it does no harm, ya know? lol. I appreciate it........ Don't have a smog "PUMP", per say, ....but do have an EGR. Just haven't had much time to do ANYTHINGGGGGG! lol. I'm going to try and block it off, .....again(did it a few months ago), and see if it changes anything, or if any of the NEW symptoms like the "Jake Brake" sounding thing goes away.(Which it does NOT do when cold, AT ALL!).

Posted a couple videos, guys.... last post on the last page. Just a lil update/clarification, etc. Oh, and I can NOT get either of the Compression Testers I've rented to work!!! Ahhhhhhhh! lol. I tried, yesterday... Which meant I wasted 45 Minutes, driving around to return the one to Kragen, ...get one from Pep Boys, ..... and never got a test done. I did notice that, when I look in the holes, ...... they look like my Original Pistons(I BELIEVE they're toyota, can't be sure till I pull the head...if i EVER get freakin time! lol). And, on the #1 Piston, ....I see a bit of white flakes, kind of like calcium build up if you will? lol. The others that I CAN SEE in there on, #2 and #3, ...they look pretty clean.

Anyway, I can't figure out why these rental compression testers aren't working, ....GRRRR! lol. Just to clarify what I'm doing(which I've done MANY TIMES)...

1. Pull all the plugs
2. Ground the Coil Wire, at the Dizzy cap end, to the block
3. Wedge the gas pedal wide open
4. Screw into #1 cylinder, keep gas pedal depressed to the floor and crank over, at least 4 times

I WOULD BET MY LIFE I have at least 168-172 across the board....but I couldn't get the first kit to get over 120#, in any hole! The second one? 90#! ..... Guys, ....i'ma break something, ......hopefully not my hand or fingers, lol... Jk, but I'm really a bit frustrated. Can't get my neighbor pinned down at all(he's really been busy),....he has a Snap On Comp. Tester I've used before.

Ok, well, I just wanted to do that comp. test to find out if I have any REALLY big issues down below on the bottom end, or maybe verify stuff up top that's going on, before I tear this motor apart on the top end alone, ya know? Not sure yet as to which route to go, whole motor or start with the head and rocker assembly inspection(or replacement if need be).....

Take care guys, have a great Sunday(not that most would read this on Sunday, ....but nevertheless! hahaha)

Mark

 

I wasn't sure if Calif. trucks had the smog pump. Most of my the trucks that I mess with have a carb. My 89 would make the jake brake sound if one of the hoses was off .

 

Hey SF, ....

Yeah, ...I'ma double check, as I pulled the top one to check/verify for vacuum pump test(but got called back to work, hahaha..... sighhh, lol).... but it was happening before I messed with it.

I just went out and blocked it(EGR) off at the plenum, but might not have time to test that out until my mid day break, ...around 5pm, before pumping out dinner. Late Spring/early summer is a REALLY bad time for this crap to be happening, haha.... I'm MUCH busier during these months, ...and I mean, "All day, from 6AM to 12PM, then 1PM to 5PM, ...then 6PM to, sometimes, 11PM. Long days, and I LOVE IT, don't get me wrong.... but it doesn't leave time for anything but checking in on Yotatech from my laptop! hahaha. Had time, yesterday, but the dang compression test wouldn't, well, ... WORK! lol. Either I had 2 bad testers in a row or something is SERIOUSLY wrong, lol. I have plenty of power, no backfire/misfire, pinging.... really doubt it's the latter, lol.

PS> I think about 78 they got rid of the smog pump? Not sure, ...my dads 280Z(79 or 80) might have had one,...can't remember. Mine does not,....but GOOD LOOKIN OUT! I'm willing to try anything, lol.

PSS> Guys, ....Cougar specifically... I'm aware of what I'm looking for with this block off test, ...but I'm not sure if the tick, if it is indeed EGR leakage into and out the rear exhaust studs would be effected. Anyway, I am almost positive that TICK-TICK-TICK is in the top end. I hear NOTHING at the top of the block or bottom of the head, when listening there with stethoscope(I know, it's not conclusive, ..but you Kwimean, lol)

 

Some pics I snapped yesterday, when I pulled the plugs, and one of the #1 Cyl. Hole..... I know, not too clear, sorry.....Don't have a mechanics caml....that would be COOL! lol....






In the last one, not sure if you can see, ...it's like white stuff in there and looks like a lean predetination or something? The others that I can see, like I said, look really clean. Also, as I mentioned.... I'm pretty sure these are my original OEM pistons that he re-ringed, which is fine, providing they were good to go, ya know?(Keep in mind, ....#1 cyl seems pretty much SILENT on the top end, unlike the AT LEAST #4, rear. Not sure if the plugs show a much hotter condition in those last 2 plugs.... ???? They are 1-4, btw. Left to right.

 

Dang, I thought you guys liked pictures, lol. Well, ....anywhoot, lol.... See pics above, if you want, .......but.......>>>

Ok, BLOCKED OFF THE EGR with Hansen's Cola Can Piece Mod was tried, .... Fooled me for a bit, as it seemed to run a LIL smoother and didn't wanna do that 'Jake Brake' thingy at 1600RPM and up at first.... tick was quieter for a few.... but it all came back, same as before, miss'n'all, lol. The miss actually seems a lil better and the idle a lil smoother since "RE-INSTALLING MY STOCK AIR INTAKE KIT".... but then, with that K&N thingymadoer on there, ...I COULDN'T HEAR CRAP, ANYWAY! lol.

I have some news, ......

Sooooooooooooooooooo, .....drumroll............ I've decided it's coming out, AT LEAST the head and rocker assembly, and most likely the block, as I do NOT like what I'm seeing in the cylinders/piston tops through the plug holes...(But, THAT will be determined when I pull the head, ya know? I have a couple choices;

1.) 1st thing, PERIOD, this rocker assembly has to be checked out.
2.) However, since I AM pulling the head, ...I have to choose whether to have mine 'REDONE'(AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!..lol) .... or, just replace it with a new one from Putney's or Engnbldr.
3.) Replace the entire motor as per my "POPS" instructions, hahaha......>>>

** I have some questions mixed with statements, ...I could really use some input....

1.) I don't really have the cash flowing out of my pockets,.....it's really been a rough couple years due to family crises, etc.(I know, join the crowd with many, ...i hear ya)....BUT, after all I've been through with this MOTOR, ..I'm not sure I'm comfortable 'HOPING' anymore. W/I mean is, ... 'If I swap out just the head and have the rocker assembly repaired/replaced-if needed...... how can I KNOW that this KNOB didn't screw up something in the bottom end?

2.) HOW can I know, without removing the short block and having it inspected, that the crank/bearings/journals/rings/pistons/bores were all gone through and done right, good to go for another 150K or so?(And, can I do/see most of this w/out pulling the block?)

3.) And, what should I pay to just have my short block checked out, verified(keeping in mind it's COMPLETE, and recently rebuilt?....5K, max, on the block)???



I might have another option, and I'll discuss it, later,...... but I'd love to hear what "You would do", knowing what I've been through, etc., ...were you me. I could sell this motor, .......with disclaimer of course... What could I get for it/would you ask for it? (5K on it, MAX)

 

Hey chef i hate hearing all these probs you keep running into with this motor it seems like one thing after another. If the motor aint causing you in problems with the power and the way it runs while your driving it i would just leave it alone and not sink anymore cash into it. Then you can save money up for a bad*** preformance motor. Oh and you never know that motor may last you longer than any motor not maken noises lol. Thats my plan if my motor ever goes i got alot of goodies done to mine and it makes alot of noise lol. (timing chain being part of the noise)

 

Hey Baddest,....

I hear ya, ...and trust me, it's not the 'NOISES' anywhere near as much as the things I can literally 'FEEL' in my feet, like literally the sound of a valve getting sucked down, lol.

It's been 500 Miles since the new adjusters, guys, ...and most of them were right on, ....except for #2 Intake and #3 exhaust lash.... #2 Intake was at 10, 3 off from where I set it just weeks ago. #3 Exhaust was at 12, also 3 off from where I'd set it just weeks ago.

Yep, I'm at a crossroads, ....as in, do I just go in and set the lash every few weeks?.... or do I get to THE FRIGGEN BOTTOM OF THIS NIGHTMARE? LOL.

BTW, how you liking the Putney's Head, Baddest?

 

I think, if you can swing it, get the other motor. Keep running yours. Totally rebuild the other from bottom up.

New bearings, pistons, rings, head. The whole kit and kaboodle. Then pull yours out and pop this one in.

If you can...

If not then go with swapping out the rockers since you have them and go from there.

.

 

Hey Lumpy, ...did you hear my shout out in my video about the "damm birds again!!" ? hahahaha.

Hey guys, ....

Found my new machinist. I'll probably have him AT LEAST check out my rocker assembly, and most likely the head(I just REALLY WANTTTT to know, at this point, what is going wrong! More importantly, actually, ....as I said, "I can't afford for things to go wrong in the middle of summer, or incur more costs due to this or that getting, well, WORSE! lol...... The Machinist I found runs the in-house machine shop at the place that Did the Propane test(the guy was a SERIOUS Guru!) The machinist said, "Just take me a short time to tell you if the head is fine or not, ...and if it is, and you wanna keep it, I'll resurface the exhaust port-side of the head, intake side, ...etc. I saw your pics, and he DID NOT do that, properly, if at all! Both sides were severely pitted, so he probably just resurfaced the HG surface of the head...Looks like new valves or at least reground. I think he reused the valves and pistons, by the pics you're showing me. NO WAY that piston could be SO PITTED and riddled with hardened carbon ash in just 5K miles. Very interested to see the valves condition, fully mic/spec out the rocker assembly for ya, .... whatever you need, man, ...I'll just do it for a REALLY good deal....., I feel so bad for ya after reading through your Yotatech Thread....you're not just a quitter or mooch,....your issues sound legit( ...dude checked out Yotatech! Lol). Just promise you'll refer to me if you like my work. ONLY done Japanese Motors, primarily Toyota's, for 25 years.... Machined every day but weekends, every one of those years."...

Yeah,....I've stepped back, last night, after checking the lash again, ..... I'm done guessing, and I'm not content in letting something that's obviously getting worse go, until it has exploded, imploded, spontaneously combusted, ...whatever, hahaha.

PS> My "Jake Brake" thingy at 1600-2200 Rpms? It feels SO MUCH like when I was about to suck a couple valves in a 327 that was in my 69 Camaro. At idle, it missed, ....then it got a lil worse and started ticking a bit...then it started making this "SUCTION" or "LOAD ON" sound, .....and shortly after sucked a valve and subsequently blew a rod right through the block. I guess that's partially what has me a lil 'off-put'! lol. That, and, well, I want things to be 'JUST RIGHT', ....or AT LEAST CLOSE! Especially after all the money, time and effort I've expended, .....make sense?

 

mine has that sucking sound when letting off the gas, i think its called air injection or something of that sort. probably smog related.

 

Hey Cougar, thanks alot for stopping in....

Mine is doing it while accelerating, only at certain RPM, and not really at all during deceleration, even at 55mph in 3rd, coming down a steep hill, revving. It might be smog related, might not, ....but what I'm hearing in my rocker/valve train area, especially from the rear/driver side, is not likely smog related, ya know?

 

Hey guys, ...I had a lil time today, couple hours, and I have it pretty much torn down completely, other than the intake..... and I HAVE A LIL PROBLEM! lol......I KNOW, what a shock, eh? haha.

PROBLEM:

I have all 6 plenum to intake bolts, the support bolt, removed. All the relative hoses, sensor, etc., all unplugged. I CAN NOT get the plenum to budge away from the lower intake! I think it's hung up on the 'studs', which are fixed in the lower intake. Just a bit flustered. I'd be ready to pull the motor, right now, were it not for that!(not bad for 2.5 hours )

Any thoughts?

 

there are 7 bolts.....

and 2 studs.....