ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, update;

I put my STOCK Air Intake Box back on, today. Why? Because I WANNA! ....hahaha, ...jk. NO, the reason why is simple, .....I CAN'T HEAR A DANG THING with that K&N on there! lol. I did a video of the tick and something NEW, ...yes, something new has started up internally, ..OY! lol. However, even with the Stock Air Box on, I realize that the problem with "noise interference" is MUCH MORE to do with the Camera, as I can't hear it in the video much better.....but could EASILY hear it better from where I was sitting. I'll post the video, later, but I don't want it to mislead anyone, so I'll just explain for now;

1.) The "NEW THING" I'm speaking of..... Well, when I get to 1500 RPM or so, it sounds ok, until I go just another 100rpm, ..... and it suddenly feels like a SERIOUS load is occurring in the top end/bottom end(have no idea which).

2.) The feeling I get, I can feel through the gas pedal as I'm depressing it. It's CLEARLY like something "VERY UNHAPPY" is occurring at around 1600rpm to about 2200rpm's. Anything under 1600 and anything over 2200(for the most part), and I DO NOT feel this vibration(Yes, it's in 'N' and clutch is NOT pushed in.)

3.) I can also HEAR this "NEW THING".... It almost sounds like a "Jake Brake" type thing, like I mentioned before.(For those who don't know what that is, it's an 'assist' to the brakes on a Semi... When you flip the jake brake it literally feels/sounds like if you were in 2nd doing 40mph, coming down a hill with the clutch in, and you suddenly let the clutch out... Well, sounds a lil different... and that's what I mean..... IF you KNOW what a Jake Brake sounds like.... that's literally what it sounds like a mild version of as this 'NEW THING' is occurring in my motor).

4.) IF, INDEED, this is something like a 'Bad Rod Bearing or Main Bearing Spec' that the machinist did, ...I WANNA KNOW before I throw on a head and new rocker assembly(or mine, rebuild/replaced what's needed), button it up and then start it again! Is there a way(BRANDON OR TRUCKMAN OR ANYONE? LOL) I can rule the bottom end out as having problems without removing it? I suppose at this point, I might as well have a look in there as well, considering HOW STUPID this machinist was(Ok, "NEGLEGENT", better? haha).

Any thoughts on what might be causing that 'vibration-like and thumpy/hollow sounding occurrence' that's going on ONLY FROM 1500-2200RPM!!!!??????!!!!!

PS> I WAS PARKED when noticing all of this the last few days, ...but I feel some 'ISSUES' while driving and under load as well.... I think that's the 'vibration' I was noticing when on the freeway the other day I asked about. ALSO; The TICK is still there, loud as ever, .....this is just something new, that I'm hoping to get some new input as to what could be going on, therein.

THANKS, SO MUCH, for ANYTHINGGGG you got!

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BUMP- ANYONE? I know I've probably worn some of you out.... but I PROMISE, it's not been my intention, especially to have spent 300-PLUS HOURS chasing my tail! hahaha.

TED? lol......

jason in tn

Still out of my knowledge level man. Sorry about the like button thing didn't mean to start a ruckus it was a joke. Anyway again sorry I'm no help.

Lumpy

I know what the jake brake thingy is and the sound it makes...Could be the resonator in the par valve system not working proper, maybe. On my 3.0 it sounds really loud till fully warm because I removed a damper and you can really hear it gurgle for a while till warm. Could be the sound that your hearing, maybe not.

The issue between 1600 and 2200 could be a timing thing. I know when I was fighting with my knock sensor (ended up being wiring) it would act and you'd feel sort of like a weird spot in the throttle.

86TonkaToy4X4

Hey Chef, Very new to the forum and love your ride!! I didn't get to read all 81 pages of this thread (try as I might) so I don't know if you have changed any of the fuel delivery parts but I have a thought on the "new thing" that you mention. Perhaps it could be the fuel filter or the pump?
I know that I have had filters get clogged before and they would cause the truck to feel bogged down when I was accelerating through rpm ranges and in some cases would starve the engine enough it would "shutter" or "stutter" while driving. A certain noise would happen when it was starved as well, maybe similar to what you have going on?
Dunno if that helps, just a thought.
Keep at it, surely someone can help shed light on it.
Thanks for sharing all your info, and I do plan to read more of this thread, just not enough time in the day.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Guys, ....

Jason, NO SORRY'S, seriously..... plenty of room for levity here! TRUST ME! lol.

Lumpy, ...not sure, as I don't believe I have a PAR valve on my 87 22RE. I do however have an EGR, ....and Ted(engnbldr) suggested it COULD be it(when referring to my comment of "when I get JUST OVER 1500RPM, it sounds like a LOAD is on, a jake brake type of thing").... but he also said, "I must concede that I've NOT HEARD of this on this motor????" .....OH BOY, lol. I sent them both a decent email and they're pretty much left guessing, like anyone, without having it on their porch, lol. Ted still thinks it could be a valve, from what he was saying, as, "A valve would let you know at lower RPM, idle, as they lose compression at lower RPM, but then become indiscernible at higher rpm as they free up and are never really seated for long enough to notice". He also mentioned, TO MY DISMAY, lol... the "Wrist pin could be causing this ticking, ..... but it's just strange that it's carrying on MORE so when it's warm then when it's cold. Try hitting 4000rpm or so, and if it gets REALLY CLEARLY louder on the way down in rpm, ...that's likely the TICK". He mentioned that "EGR systems leaks/backups account for 90% of the MYSTERY 'TICKS', and 'CLICKS'.... and are very hard to discern. The EGR system has a port that runs right through the exhaust port and literally goes partially through the rear/top-bottom(?) exhaust stud(sorry, can't remember WHICH he said)."

Personally, I'm just really tired of chasing these gremlins, and I'm close to making a decision as to whether I'm going to just start over, COMPLETELY! Couldn't take me more than a week of spare time to tear it down and slap it back together.....but the COST, MAN! I found a "RUNNING IN TRUCK 22RE, come listen and take the entire thing for 800$', including all accessories. NO LEAKS, original motor with 120K on it". Thinking about it, as it comes with EVERYTHING, including a motor without ANY misses, etc. I might grab the harness as well, AFM, etc. See, I figure, ....even with 120K, I'm better off then with this POS that I'm dealing with now,....and I can slowly rebuild the one I have now to a beast over a period of a year, YA KNOW?

I'll report back, but IF I DO just dig through this one that I have, ....I will AT LEAST need to have my rocker assembly checked out(if it's the shafts, great, 50$ from Putney's..... if it's a couple rockers, FINE, 80$. If it's the whole thing? Well, then I might just start with a new one, ya know?) If I have to do the head, Tod said "sure, you can re-use that cam you've just broken in, the 261! Shouldn't be a problem at all, especially if you MAKE SURE the rockers are all good to go, no play, etc....maybe have them surfaced again by whomever(Putney's)." But the head would be 450$? So there's that, too. You see, .....this is why I'm freaked out, ...what if the guy messed up the bearing clearances on the new-to-me crank, etc.? I just don't think it's worth it to start digging into this one a piece at a time, ..I JUST DON'T HAVE TIME LIKE THAT ANYMORE! haha.

Thanks, guys, ..... I'm sorry, I have to head to a funeral today of a long time good friend ,.....so I'm just a lil off to begin with. But I WILL conquer this MACHINE! lol.

mark

PS> Thanks, Tonka, ...and Welcome to Yotatech!!! Just to clarify, .... I have; New OEM Fuel Pump and New Fuel Filter(4K on filter 2K on pump).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I FOUND A 22RE, .... it's in a 95 PIck up, running, NO LEAKS, 75K on a factory Toyota Built Motor. He will sell it to me for 900$ with the harness and ECU, complete with every accessory, etc.! All pumps, ...EVERYTHING. My question is, ....if I slap that in, .... do I need to modify the ECU from that 95 to work with my 4WD? (I repeat, it's in a 95 2WD Pick up).

Please guys, I want to pick it up tonight if possible, ...it wont last in Los Angeles, TRUST ME! but I have to get through the funeral first, of course.... so what else can I do but ask my homies if it'll work??????? lol.

PS> What emissions stuff's would I have to mess with? Charcoal canister, etc?????

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i don't know that it will. my harness has extra plugs, not only for the cali emissions crap, but also the 4wd. it plugs into the transfer case near the rear output. if the truck doesn't care if it's in 4wd or not, then it should work just fine. also, you could rig up your own harness just for the 4wd, if you wanted. not too hard, just 3 or 4 wires

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm, thanks Ian, ... but I wonder, ... He wants 800$ for the long block with every accessory. I COULD, I suppose, slap the long block in here, .......assuming it's the same block and head of course, lol. Only thing on the ECU, ..... I'd have to add a couple pins to it for the 4WD and Reverse Lights stuff. Hmmmmmmm. Actually, it's the emissions CRAP that has me most concerned, lol.

Lumpy

You "should" be ok...I think it'll work out as long as they are both 5spd's which I believe you said the 2wd one was. I'm going to be swapping an 87 5spd into a 95 auto Runner. I think that'll be more of an issue with the ECU.

You can always use that head and block and use all your other stuff...intake exhaust and all the other. block and head is block and head.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yeah, if both of your engines are 22r-e or r-ec, there's no need to worry. the r-ec harness has an egr gas sensor plug and an extra o2 sensor plug

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Chef, the long block, intake, some of the exhaust stuff, will work. I'd bet the ecu and harness will not work as they have subtle differences between years. Plugs are shaped differently, emmisions stuff is different so on and so forth. It would be one heck of a head ache to try and swap a 2wd ecu and harness from 95 to an 87 runner. Not saying it's impossible but seriously doubt that it will be plug and play. The motor, after install and swapping every thing over, is it worth 900?? nope i'd get a new remanufactured long block for a bit more change and throw that in there. I would say bno for sure but untill some one proves me wrong i'm sticking to my guns on this one as i've had the pleasure of discussing it before and this was 4x4 truck from 1990 and using a donor from 1991 2wd truck. The 4x4 lights, sensors from 87 are going to be differnt from a 2wd truck from 95. My source? Well lets just say he's a better toyota mechanic than me and i trust him on his word that it'll not work. Good luck on the problems buddy and obviously take my advice with a grain of salt but i'm pretty confident in what i said.

baddest94

Hey chef hate to hear all these problems that keep coming up. I had a ticking nosie start up on me a couple weeks ago but i think its the timing chain tensoner. Ill be replacing the timing chain and all soon as i find time. You can only hear mine when the motor gets to idle or while its idleing. Hope you get everything figured out. Ill ask around to some of my yota buddys see if they have heard of anything like this

Lumpy

MightyMouse, I'm not disagreeing that swapping all the parts over would be a headache. What I'm suggesting is just use the block and head off the 95 and that's it. Use all the 87 bolt on goodies, manifolds, injectors, emissions. He "should" be able to use his intake and stuff as well as the alt, ps, ac and all the other goodies off the 87.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Lumpy, you and i are on the same page and couldn't agree more. I wanted to let chef know the ecu and wiring harness would be a no go unless he feels like playing electrician.

xxxtreme22r

I was gonna suggest the same thing, use the entire engine but swap all the 87 electronics over. Swap the intake manifold over if you like as well. I think the alternator connector is different as well. Just a reminder the P.S. pump is a little different as well, but should work fine if not better because of a higher line pressure.

Lumpy

Ok, ok. I see!

Ya, I wouldn't try to use the EFI off the 95 in the 87, nightmare in the making. Can be done just not what I'd do.

.

Lumpy

Yes the Alt is different the 87 should be round the 95 is ovalish. Easy fix on that though. just a quick mod you can swap the plugs on the alt quite easily. AS for the PS not sure.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

you mean like this:



if you need the adapter, lemme know, it's yours for cheap

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, ...... THANKS, SO MUCH, for chiming in on a moments notice! I was at the funeral all this time, since my last post.... and that was rough enough, ....and then I started thinking, "Wait, doesn't the 95 have 2- 02 sensors, different lighting, have to wire up the 4wd stuff, .... any different vacuum/emissions related stuff... Hmmm, yeah, doesn't seem worth it to me!" lol.....

Of course,......... the complete long block, plus everything I could get parting out the rest, ...might just be worth it on that end, ya know? Problem is, ...I have NO IDEA what's REALLY going on inside there. It's something I have to weigh out, and I'm pretty sure he said, "NO problem on whatever you wanna do... Just letting you know that Tues., if someone doesn't want the motor, I'm selling the whole truck to a buddy. Don't wanna, as the body and suspension, etc., are all pretty toast, ...but he doesn't care as it's for hauling junk, etc., just for a 'few weeks project', then he'll turn around and sell it too, haha." Very nice guy, not pushy, and I take him at his word, ....so I just have to weigh out the pro's and con's.... And, well, it seems I'd probably be better off just going through my own and fixing anything wrong with it(I.e.; If it's a Wrist pin, bad valve, etc.).... Because OTHERWISE, it runs REALLY strong, ya know?

What I do know, regarding my motor..... SOMETHING is wrong, ..... especially with that vibration/resistance, even when parked, that I can feel in my gas pedal foot at 1600-2200rpm. The tick, ...just seems that in the HOURS that I've read into that, ...most every example on "wrist pin" issues were MUCH more pronounced when the motors were COLD, ...not the opposite, like in my case, ya know? Plus, ....they seemed to be fairly loud ALL THE TIME, not just at certain RPM...... am I off on that?

Ted mentioned the EGR system is really opened and working at around 1500-2500 rpm, ....is that right? (he wasn't sure on that, from what I gathered). My EGR is original, 262K, ...... and I'm not sure I got it REALLY clean on the lil pipe portion. Seemed to pass the vacuum pump tests I did..... but I can't be sure it's not bad, .....uhg! lol.