I drove the runner around the hood the other day. In 2hi I heard a bad sound coming from the transfer case region. Put it in 4hi and it stopped. So idk what thats about. Will have to test again. Hope its not all effed up in there. Also still getting a clunking sound from the front drivers area. Back when I cranked my torsion bars the drivers side "popped" even tho I turned it the same as the other side. So could my Tbar be broken? Wouldnt it be visibly sagging if it were broken? I wanted to wheel again in october and november, but if the tbars broken I might just start the sas. Which basically means it'd be down for a very long time cuz I'd have to do my chevy rear springs too. Ugh.

P.s. the internet is right. You cant steer worth a damn with a welded front! Haha, even hubs free you cant turn if you're in 4wd. Which was a surprise to me. It will be interestimg to wheel it.

 

Hey guys. I'm getting ready for another trip to the offroad park in November so I clearanced the skid plate.



It amazed me that I had to trim so much to clear the double cardan because supposedly this was specifically designed for this exact application. How the company screwed that up I dont know, and they never replied to my email about its failings. I also put washers on the bolts because it didn't even come with those. So hey front range offroad, you failed here.

I also discovered that my drivers front hub does not actually unlock when set in "free". So thats neat.

 

A few of the passenger side holes don't line up on my winch plate.



The yellow circled holes line up and I just gotta buy the bolts. The green one I'm going to drill it out and run a bolt with a nut on the back. That should do it!

 

The frame tab behind the green circle is pretty easily bent. A couple bumps with a hammer should be able to move it to right behind the hole in the bumper.

 

I already have a frame brace welded onto it thats 1/4"

 

That changes things. You could also slot out the hole in the bumper. Saves you from having to reach around and hold then nut every time you install or remove the bumper. Just ideas.

 

I like that idea. Just use a big washer. Thanks for your input.

 

Pics arent working for some reason.

 

I know!! Photobucket crashed or something none of my pics work in this and my truck thread! They better fix it or im gonna be pissed!!!

 

Putting two marlin crawler HD eco seals into the transfer case. Its definitely beefier. Also putting rtv behind the washer and nut.







FYI, If doing rear seal dont drain the tcase. If doing front seal just drain it first.

 

Nice work buddy. Sorry I did not get back to you right away. I have been swamped this week.

 

All I got to say

 

Never used a bolt extractor before. Didnt work. Probably needed a bigger one.



So I ended up cutting out more sheet metal around the shifter to access the bolts without lowering the transfer case. I just used tin snips and a drill bit. So i put oil in from the top and will worry about the fill bolt later. On to the next item which is drivers hub rebuild.

 

I can help you get that off easy.

 

How? I tried welding a nut to it. Couldn't get it to stick. The bolt may be alloy??

 

I believe it is an alloy drain plug.

I have some other extracting methods. I can see if I can slip away over a weekend or one night during the week, when the wifes back in town, to come give you a hand.

 

Ya or I can trailer it up to iowa and we can also burn on the front spring hanger and put in the frame tubes.

 

I'm down with that

 

Rebuilding the hub.



So I took it out for a test drive. No weird noises or anything. I think that bad sound I heard last time was the front square driveshaft clanking because it has some play in it.



So I was definitely happy with everything! I'm going to fix the passenger front fender next.

 

Very nice!