When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good point! House renos never seem to stop.. then I need to gut our little attached garage to build my wife her hair salon so she can start bringing in more money to fund my toyota projects!
Hoping to get back to my rear window/tail gate storage project this weekend, if she stays running steady this week that is. Something mechanical always seems to creep up, the joys of driving a 32 year old truck with mostly stock components in it!
Slow day at work today, so jumped into one of my many, many half done projects.
Made the last piece for my center console, the piece around the shifters. Need to drill the rest of the mounting holes and then remove all three pieces, wipe them down with laquer thinnner, then paint. I've decided to stop using the Red Oxide colour I used on the door panels, and try to match the tan interior colour better.
I may remove my power antenna switch and put my ECT switch there, but I was also thinking about making a block off plate above the stereo with multiple spots to mount switches.
Once the rest of the mounting screws are in, it should suck the metal seam down tight on the right side there. Will likely run a small bead of silicone or something between where that laps, just incase my drink sweats or spills and tries to run under there. I'll figure that out in my final mounting phase.
Will also put a bottom of some sort into my cup holder, it just sits down on the trans tunnel for now, which is fine for hot drinks!
I might make a little collar or shroud to tuck up under the radio and sit on top of my newest piece, to hide all the wiring, haven't decided yet. Will tidy up and tuck all the wiring at the bottom of the pic under the lip of my console piece during final install.
One of these days I need to decide if I'm going to put new carpet in or not.
Good call Warrpath, I actually use butyl tape at work to seal certain duct systems we install. Don't know why I never thought of it for this type of application, thanks.
It would appear my pinion seal at the front drive shaft/differential is leaking some gear oil, will keep and eye on it and add it to the ever growing list of to-dos.
Not much of an update, been low on funds and time as usual. I will be getting some money on Friday though, and it's a long weekend for us northerners! Going to stop and pickup a new Steering Stabilizer, as mine has been leaking for awhile and my steering is feeling.. well less stable! Have heard good things about Moog.
Went to leave work last week one day, turn the key and..nothing! Not even dash lights. Left my key in the ignition and my door open, then started wiggling wires around the battery, sure enough I moved the Fusible Link going from the + terminal to the fuse box and heard my key buzzer go off. Luckily I had a small box of connectors and my wire strippers and crimpers in the truck, which I've been tending to leave in there. Crimped a new end on that wire and put it back together, haven't had an issue since that. I did notice some corrosion on my 80A PAL fuse though, so will stop and pickup one of those up as well. I have been reading many threads about guys doing the "Big 3" upgrade, including replacing the Fusible Link wire with a 4ga or 6ga wire, there seem to be a large group of people that have done it and have never had any issues, but I know RAD for example recommends against replacing it.. Anyone have thoughts on this? I've read that the Fusible Link is redundant since it runs right to the 80A PAL fuse.. it's all a little beyond my electrical comprehension though, so still trying to research/learn.
I also removed my coolant over flow tank last week with the intention of cleaning it out. It's been full of sludge and not connected to the rad since I got the truck, so it's high time to get it cleaned and hooked back up.
I've always had a slight pull to the left when braking, it's gotten much worse over the past two days. Will be taking my wheels off for some diagnosis this weekend, hopefully just a sticky caliper pin on the right side that I can get to start actuating, but will assess everything. Might be time for new pads/calipers and possibly even rotors.
Steering stabilizer will have to wait! I need my brakes!
Thanks, still haven't painted that console.. no time lately. I'm going to make some time this weekend to work on the 4runner, but that will be trying to track down an oil leak that's bothering me.
Finally had a chance to jack the front end up and take both tires off to try and diagnose my brakes pulling to the left issue. No obvious issue, spinning both tires by hand before removing them, the drivers (left) only spun about 3/4 of a full rotation before the drag stopped it, and the passenger (right) spun a little over a full rotation. So I have more drag on the side it's pulling to for sure, but how much drag is ideal? There should always be a slight drag on disc brakes, right?
Spinning the wheels by hand and applying the brake pedal stops both no problem, so they both seem to be engaging fine. I thought the passenger (right) was possibly not actuating at all, thus pulling to the other side, but perhaps the drivers (left) is sticking on slightly? I haven't noticed any loss of power or apparent drag while driving the truck. Any thoughts on this guys? I know a lot of you have had similar brake issues.
As rusty as everything looks, I will most likely pickup some new pads and calipers this week. I would love to throw new rotors on at the same time, and I know I should, but limited funds and only having the weekend to get it done, plus never having disassembled manual locking hubs or repacking bearings leaves me a little wary of attempting it all in two days.
Will pickup calipers and pads this week for my brake job.
In the mean time, since I'm stuck at work, decided to start on some 4runner logos with our CNC plasma bed. The smaller one did not turn out, plasma is far from the most accurate for cutting things, so going too small just doesn't work out usually. The larger one is about 10" X 6". Had to alter the lettering slightly to make it work, and the scale is a little off, the letters are taller then they should be.
Just wanted to point out for slightly more than the expense of pads and calipers you could get rotors pads and new caliper seals, you likely already have or are going to buy anyway the materials to rebuild the calipers.
Just wanted to point out for slightly more than the expense of pads and calipers you could get rotors pads and new caliper seals, you likely already have or are going to buy anyway the materials to rebuild the calipers.
Thanks CO_94_PU, was hoping someone that knows more about this would chime in.
I was wondering about that. So you suggest rebuilding the calipers with a rebuild kit instead of buying new? That would most likely allow me to buy new rotors, like you say. There is some expense in replacing/repacking seals in manual hubs as well isn't there? I'm still pretty foggy on that, but it has to be done if the rotors are being replaced, correct? I'm still researching this, but any info anybody has would be great.
Thanks CO_94_PU, was hoping someone that knows more about this would chime in.
I was wondering about that. So you suggest rebuilding the calipers with a rebuild kit instead of buying new? That would most likely allow me to buy new rotors, like you say. There is some expense in replacing/repacking seals in manual hubs as well isn't there? I'm still pretty foggy on that, but it has to be done if the rotors are being replaced, correct? I'm still researching this, but any info anybody has would be great.
The hub gaskets are marked as "non reusable" on the diagram (YMMV), and a rubber seal on the dial.. Definitely don't loose the detention ball on the selector, it has a spring behind it. Quite a few threads covering that rebuild, it basically consists of cleaning and regreasing, I don't think that I detailed it in my thread when i did the 4runner ones but there should be others who did.
Yeah new caliper seals work wonders, if you don't mind spending the time, a brief check says less than $10?
The hub gaskets are marked as "non reusable" on the diagram (YMMV), and a rubber seal on the dial.. Definitely don't loose the detention ball on the selector, it has a spring behind it. Quite a few threads covering that rebuild, it basically consists of cleaning and regreasing, I don't think that I detailed it in my thread when i did the 4runner ones but there should be others who did.
Yeah new caliper seals work wonders, if you don't mind spending the time, a brief check says less than $10?
I've read a few threads, will continue to do research.
Sep 17, 2019 | 09:35 AM
