Ahh, I didn't even think about that! Latches should definitely be flush, thanks cory. I will look into WagonGear for ideas.

 

I'm not sure if my idle is right. I know it's 850rpm for an auto, and idles fine in park or neutral, but what should it be in gear while not moving? It drops to 500 or 600, idling a little rough at 500. Is that right?

I've searched and searched, but can't seem to come up with anything about the actual idle speed in gear for an auto.

 

I have been wondering about this myself actually.

 

I'm glad I'm not the only one! Was starting to doubt my sanity, not being able to find any info on it.

Any other A/T drivers have any input?

 

Not much of an update, raised my Park/neutral idle to about 950, she idles about 650 in gear while stopped now, much nicer than a shaky 500 while at a stop light. I'll keep researching this though, something doesn't seem right.

Other than that spent some time cleaning and organizing my shop.



Started bagging and tagging all the parts I've removed so far, just for organization purposes. I hate having things scattered all over, and if someone I know can ever use something it'll that much easier to find.

 

Is it similar the surging idle while foot is on the break issue many (myself included) have?
I'm wondering if the automatic trucks ignore the break input while in park or neutral and only attempt to idle down when in gear

My manual, it turns out, was idle surging at stoplights because of a slightly mis-adjusted tps and a weak throttle return spring

Checking your TPS adjustment couldn't hurt is what I'm trying to say

https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...PS/index.shtml

 

Not surging idle, it stays steady, just drops what seems like excessively low only while in gear.

I did adjust my TPS back into spec a few months ago, before that this issue was worse, had to have the park/neutral idle at about 1100rpm so that my in gear idle was around 600. Jumping the diagnostic ports also wouldn't drop idle and return to base timing, adjusting TPS fixed that and helped the idle problem.

That's why I'm curious if it's functioning properly, because it very well could be, or I have a different issue the still needs to be addressed.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

Started removing my chrome fender trim to assess rust damage and come up with a game plan. Originally planned to cut rust out from passenger fender and then cut the drivers to match it, but there is no way in hell I'm cutting up that perfect looking driver side fender! Will be looking at replacing the passenger fender instead, then colour matching.

Rockauto has fenders for around $70.00, anyone have experience using them?

I've been trying to track down where this driver side fender was ordered from, but it was done by a shop as an insurance claim, and the PO doesn't remember which shop it was.



Driver side



Passenger

 

Are there any marks on the top of the fender on the lip where the hood bumpers attach too?

There is a company name on the replacement fender on my brother's 1990 Toyota Corolla in that spot. Just a guess...

 

Good call, thanks old87! I'll see what I can track down with this.

 

The last time I checked the shipping on the Rockauto body parts is insanely expensive

 

That will be a main deciding factor for sure, especially with the US to Canadian exchange rate on top of it. Shipping plus exchange has almost doubled the price of certain Rock Auto things in the past. :/

On an unrelated note, the next thing I will be looking into is my heater controls. The fan speed control is the only one functioning properly, the others are hard to move and binding, so will be taking a part my dash this weekend and investigating. I do get heat, but it takes a little longer than it should and is not quite as warm as it should be. Hoping I don't need to back flush my heater core, as I've heard that can create leaks in the old system afterwards.Would like it working better before the cold comes though.. I hope!

While I'm in the dash, will also look at installing an old CD player I have. I dug out my awesome collection of cassette tapes the other day to get my tape deck going, but it doesn't seem to function properly, just keeps switching sides of the tape back and forth after about 1 second. I would have been more than happy with the cassette deck working, but will be upgrading to CD I suppose! I've never done a stereo install, so should be interesting.

 

You might want to check with toyota fiberglass, he's back up and running, in Canada, and you won't need to worry about rust.

 

Disassembling/reassembling the dash on these is nice and easy, I definitely recommend printing the relevant fsm pages for reference of what order to do things, and where the hidden bolts are and how to get to them

Sounds like you probably just need to replace or lube the control cables

Careful with the heater core, I looked high and low and couldn't find a proper replacement a couple years ago. Don't be fooled, neither of the models rockauto sells nor whatever they pull up at a parts store actually fits. At least here in the US for my 86 anyway.

Guy at the radiator shop insisted he could sell me a replacement instead of cleaning and checking my old one. He tried to disagree with me about it and I had to physically show him my heater core and how it was differently sized than the one his computer said I needed. Quite the look on his face

 

Looking at his site now, very cool, and definitely a good option. Thanks jakey!

 

Excellent information, thanks magnet! The hot/cold control, that runs by the passenger seat definitely just needs some lube, I just got under there and moved it back and forth with a bit of effort, and it moves the control knob no problem. My heater control valve in the engine bay right on the fire wall is completely seized though, will see what I can do with that. I have read about a couple people eliminating that valve for a simple ball valve they can adjust according to time of year, thoughts on something like that? Or no valve? Would having coolant constantly running past the core be a problem, other than not functioning as intended?

I have been searching for quite awhile for an '87 FSM with no success, all links have been removed years ago it seems. Even one of the ones you pay a fee in order to download was no longer working.

 

Only downside is in the summer it will be heating up your cabin, and if you have AC it might work against it. I'd try to get it sorted properly, but a ball valve would definitely be the quick and dirty

I haven't found an 86 fsm either, but 85 and 88 are floating around out there. 85 obviously has the solid front axle, other than that differences are negligible

 

I've got A/C, but it hasn't run in years and I plan to remove all the components at some point, so no issues there. Doesn't get hot enough here that I need more than the vent windows and rear window open. Would definitely like to fix it properly, and I like the idea of using a ball valve instead of always having coolant going through the core. A ball valve may be the initial fix until I can order an 89+ plastic control valve.

Good to know, I will try to track down an 85 FSM. Thanks again magnet!

 

Well shipping a fender from Rockauto will be $70.00 for the fender, plus $384.00 shipping! Lol! That option is out the window! Will most likely go with Toyota Fibreglass once I can get the money together.

 

https://www.carid.com/1987-toyota-4r...]=SUBMODEL|SR5

less than $100 shipped