what info are you looking for? i removed my a/c stuff and will probably be removing the cruise stuff if it doesnt work (tore the engine down shortly after purchase and never tested the cruise)

 

I admit I need to research it more, but can I just disconnect the throttle cable and the actuator and remove it all?

AC seems pretty straight forward, though at quick glance when I was under there doing brake lines over the weekend it looks like there are some AC lines going to my A/T? Maybe not, I didn't investigate too much.

If these are stupid questions, don't answer! I need to research more, and will find them when I do I'm sure!

 

Fixed my blown brake line on Saturday morning. Ended up bypassing LSPV for now, will add a manual valve soon. I was hesitant to mess around with the stock routing of the supply line, and the line returning from the LSPV to the front, as they share the same brackets as the hard fuel line.

I ran my line from the MC that ties into the top of the 'T' straight into the line for the Front Pass caliper, as shown below, eliminating the 'T' for now. That short looped section of line is the one that came off the right side of the 'T' to the FP caliper, I just adjusted the bends and put a union between it and the line from the MC. Then all I had to do was run a new supply line from the left of the 'L' fitting to my rear soft line that runs to both rear calipers. My LSPV is still bolted on, and the 'T' still in place, so it may even get hooked back up to stock configuration once I feel like dealing with the stock mounts and the fuel line.

Bled the system extensively after everything was hooked up, took it for a drive. The pedal is a little softer than I'd like, so triple checked for leaks, then attempted the "roll slowly in reverse and pump e brake a few times" to adjust my rear brakes.. which confirmed that one of my bell cranks is seized lol. hammered the bell crank back off the wheel, and will not be using my ebrake until I fix it properly.

I can stop fine, and lock things up if needed, the pedal just doesn't feel like it engages as soon as I'd like, which from my research so far could be:
-Rear brakes out of adjustment
-Pedal adjustment?
-Still air in the system
-Soft lines ballooning under pressure
-MC failing
-Booster failing

Will report back once I know more.

 

Hmm. I keep reading about "not pushing the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding", which I did not know about.. so I definitely had it pushed all the way down when bleeding, but didn't let the MC run dry. Did I destroy the seals in my MC doing this?

I was hoping I just needed to bleed everything a little more thoroughly, but I keep reading about blocking under the pedal while bleeding... Thoughts?

 

It really depends on the condition of the master cylinder as to if you did any damage.

If regular brake fluid changes were not performed and the master cylinder is quite old, there is a pretty good chance that corrosion and pitting started to form in the master cylinder beyond your normal brake pedal travel, and pushing the pedal down the full travel causes the seals to move into this pitted and corroded area. The corrosion and pitting can then tear up the seals.

On the other hand, if the master cylinder is pretty new and/or was well taken care of, or maybe if you are just lucky, your seals are probably fine.

Basically the rule of not pushing the pedal all the way down is just a way to keep you from buying a new master cylinder.

 

That is a great breakdown of it, thanks!

I don't think it is the original MC, there is evidence of brake fluid leaking out and running down the booster, but it is all very old looking. I think the PO put a new MC in. I have kept a very close eye on it over the three years I've had this 4runner, and never seen a new drop of brake fluid leak out of it, or had to top up the brake fluid. Though I have heard the MC can leak into the booster behind it?

Going to hold out hope that the MC is still good, and I just need to re-bleed.

Re-bleeding is free, and I hate just throwing parts at it!

 

Going to replace my 3 flex brake lines this weekend, then attempt to bleed again.

I'm thinking about picking up a set of Speed Bleeders for each wheel, couldn't find much solid info on them. Anyone have experience with them? Like them? Hate them? Know exactly what size I need? Seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there.

Thinking about just doing the ol' gravity bleed instead. Get four days off this weekend, so could dedicate a day to drinking beer and watching gravity do its thing. Any thoughts/opinions?

Thanks guys!

EDIT: Alright, fronts are M10X1X34.44mm long, rears are M7X1X35.15mm long. Just ordered a set of each. Will report back after trying them this weekend.

 

I run speed bleeders on my 4 runner, and can't figure out how I lived so long without them!

 

Thanks for the input jakey!

Do those sizes sound right? The Speed Bleeder website listed those as the sizes, so I ordered them, but I just found a post by Wyoming saying all four are M10x1..

 

I use a pneumatic brake bleeder, hook it up to air, hook the hose up to the bleeder, and crack the bleeder. easy and fast way to replace all the old brake fluid in the lines especially when buying a used rig and not knowing how long the fluid has been in there.

 

I had a problem finding the right size as well, I had to send a set back. I believe they all were the same size, I'll try and remember to check when I get home tonight

 

That sounds like a great way to flush the whole system, I will have to look into that. Thanks warrpath.

 

They are probably all M10X1 then, like wyoming said. Oh well! I'll wait till they come and see what's what. Thanks man

 

Well, confirmed that the sizing chart on the Speed Bleeder website is wrong. All four bleeder valves are M10X1, rears ARE NOT M7X1. That being said, I didn't work on my brakes over the weekend, once I get all four Speed Bleeders the right size I will replace my flex lines and bleed again. I did get some other random things done to the Brown Bomber though. Pics incoming.

 

Removed rear window motor and regulators to convert space to storage.

Glad to see it out of there!

Finalized my hinge placement and how much I needed to shim it out to achieve the seal I want. Will update the rear window replacement thread with more info soon.

Did my EGR delete, will need to find shorter bolts for the two going into the side of the block, had to shim with washers.

I am convinced my EGR was non functioning, with the increased throttle response and smoother running at cruise I am getting now.

Removed A/C idle up VSV and capped vac ports, as I will be removing all factory A/C components soon.

Also did my Valve cover gasket and half moon grommets, as I had a slight leak from doing my valve clearances awhile ago. Gotta say, taking the valve cover off without the mess of vac lines is stupid easy now.. not that was all that hard before, but wow.. could do it with my eyes closed now! Gave the cover a quick clean too, doesn't look as terrible now!

And late last night got one new battery terminal on!

Was a great weekend, even had time to take the kids out to the lake for a 3 hour swim!

 

Excellent, all those metal skills time to do a battery hold down!!!! Super cool your trade can help so much in older vehicles, I’m a cable guy so the only thing I could use is zip ties

 

What, you don't like my Dynamic, Self-Adjusting, Non-conductive Battery Hold Down?! LOL! That is definitely on the list to do, just haven't made it there yet. Metal working skills are handy for these old trucks for sure, just don't ever ask me to do anything with wood...

 

What are you thinking for covering tailgate to access your storage? I've gutted mine but I just put the factory cover back on until I figure out what to do. I need a cap on my window channel too like yours.

 

Not entirely sure yet cory, something along the lines of what rusted posted in your build thread and this quick drawing I did. Thinking about doing a frame and then an overlapping door that closes over top of it, some foam gasket between the frame and door to eliminate rattle, a couple small latches to hold it shut. Thoughts?

 

Looks pretty good. In my opinion, the latches should be somehow flush because I sit on the tailgate sometimes and of course I slide things in and out and don't want whatever my cargo is to get hung up on the latches. There was a company called WagonGear that made some very similar tailgate storage panels for FJ60 LandCruisers, might be worth checking them out just to get some ideas.