New door panel installed. I didn't realize the back of the arm rest would hang off the insert like that, might have to change that. Overall, pretty happy with the look of it though.

 

I started attempting to get my stock tail gate handle functioning again, as reaching inside and pulling both cables is a pain in the ass.

Initially I was going to copy what coryc85 did in his build thread. A couple brackets to set the direction of the cables and for the cable sleeves to clip onto, and a push rod and piece of flat bar that move with the handle.

After screwing around for awhile, I couldn't get it to work. I decided to make new cables since I had some aircraft cable and clamps.


This is what I came up with. A couple of aluminum brackets similar to corys, that bolt into the same spot he used. They serve as a track for a piece of 3/4" aluminum square tubing, and I riveted some eyelets to the brackets as cable guides. I cut the stock push rod down, cut the head off a 1/4" bolt and welded the bolt to the push rod.

A picture before I attached the cables, with handle pulled and tubing at the end of its track.




It needs a bit of fine tuning, but there's always time for that! I'll try to take some more pictures tomorrow if I get a chance to play with the adjustment.

 

“Never saddle a dead horse”
your cable clamps may be able to slip.

 

Agreed. Like I said, needs some fine tuning. I was rushing to get it together before leaving work today.

 

Your aluminum brackets are very nice. I'm wondering what keeps the cable riding in those eyelets? Seems like they could slip off of there. But overall, nice design, much less of a hack than what I did. That is a single cable that goes between both latches and inside that aluminum tube isn't it? That's smart.

 

Thanks cory. Tension on the cable is the only thing that holds them on the guides, I think you're right, I need to come up with something better. In the middle of the night last night I woke up and thought about possibly using some small diameter round tubing or pipe that I can attach somehow and run the cable through that before running through my square tubing. Will see what I can come up with.

 

Something like that maybe, or a small length of hard brake line possibly..

 

i haven't checked, but it might be possible to swap the driver's with the passenger's to make it fit in the panel. if it worked, not likely anyone would notice they were backwards.

 

That is a great idea, I'll try that out for sure, thanks wallytoo!

 

Noticed some wetness on my rear driver side wheel the other day, looks like my rear axle seal went on that side. Will be doing some research and collecting parts.

Should I do the other side at the same time? I'd like to rebuild my drum brake, rebuild/replace my bell crank and do the wheel bearing while I'm in there, which leads me to think I should do both sides at the same time.

Thoughts?

 

i wouldn't. i replaced one rear seal when it failed in 2017. the other side is still fine after another 30K miles.

 

Good to know, thanks for the quick response wally. Did you do the bearing or anything else while you were in there? Or should I just do the seal and leave everything else? As far as I know I don't have any bearing issues or rear drum brake issues, I just thought it was good practice to do everything while I'm in there.

 

i replaced the bearing along with the seal. not worth it to take it that far down and not replace the bearing. the seal might have failed because the bearing is already bad, but you can't yet feel it.

 

agree with Wally, BUT for many of us without a press axle bearing replacement is where the DIY stops. You have to press the collars on, if i remember from doing the job on my 84 4runner back in the 90’s.

 

Okay so do the bearing while I'm in there, roger that.

The heavy duty machine shop next to my work has a press I should be able to use, so hopefully that won't be an issue.

Thanks guys

 

I bought this durasolid bearing puller several years ago on eBay, it looks exactly like this one..
I'm guessing you might have access to a press at work. If so, then you could buy or make a puller.

 

Thanks cory, link doesn't seem to work, but I'll look into a bearing puller for sure.

Time to read some threads about doing this and start gathering some part numbers, that's half the fun!

 

Pulling and pressing bearing can be fun. I made a puller out of an old axle housing. Welded some round stock across it and beat the bearing out of it, and shook my hands up pretty good. Almost worth it to take the axles to someone to have them do it. Many shops by me won't do it anymore unless they provide the bearings etc for 4x's what you can buy them for.
good luck!

 

Thanks dropzone! I'm hoping my buddy that works in the heavy duty machine shop next to my work will help with the bearing.. although I'm not gonna lie I'm tempted to try the "Caveman method" on a piece of wood in my garage...

I've read multiple threads and printed the pages from the FSM, I think I've got a good handle on what I need to do. Need to order parts now. Should I go with a specific brand? I haven't found any mention of brands in any thread I've read through.

Thanks for any input guys

edit: Of course the next thread I find mentions some brands. SKF and Timken are both decent bearing brands apparently. Will continue researching

 

I've ordered my bearing, bearing retainer, inner seal, and outer seal. From Rockauto, all SKF brand. I still need to track down a new snap ring, as I understand they are not reusable. I've also seen mention of a "bearing spacer" in some threads, that isn't on the '88 FSM rear axle diagram. Is that if people are using wheel spacers or something?

I've got the press lined up to use, and I'll fab up a Special Service Tool to use. Looking forward to tackling this!

Edit: It looks like I need a rear axle O ring as well? That isn't on the FSM diagram. Should have just ordered the kit off Marlin Crawler :/