1986 Turbo 4-Runner (#36522)
#125
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Got distracted this morning and neglected to get a picture of it.
#127
#128
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I'm pretty certain you would know if you had the stuff I am looking for. they aren't in the FSM, the EWD is a whole seperate book
Here are a couple pages from Jeff..
http://www.well.com/~mosk/Images/22RTE_EFI.pdf
the EWD (electrical wiring diagram) books look like this. I think that is page 24, 25 and 26(?) Then page 27 or later would show the various plugs of the system section.
There would be whole sections devoted to component and connector locations. Loom routing and thier names. Each system diagramed with operating theory, flow and every imaginable test spec.
Did you see the thread I've been trying to help the retired fellow that keeps blowing AC fuses? The files posted there come from an EWD book.
EWD it's the cats meow, end all be all of electric information. I have the 88 EWD archived at home somewhere on a compact disk or an old hard drive. Key words being somewhere, and at home.
The problem is I have every hard drive, compact disk and floppy disk I've owned since ooh 1990 or so. It fills a 2'×4' cabinet with lots of overflow piles.
Here are a couple pages from Jeff..
http://www.well.com/~mosk/Images/22RTE_EFI.pdf
the EWD (electrical wiring diagram) books look like this. I think that is page 24, 25 and 26(?) Then page 27 or later would show the various plugs of the system section.
There would be whole sections devoted to component and connector locations. Loom routing and thier names. Each system diagramed with operating theory, flow and every imaginable test spec.
Did you see the thread I've been trying to help the retired fellow that keeps blowing AC fuses? The files posted there come from an EWD book.
EWD it's the cats meow, end all be all of electric information. I have the 88 EWD archived at home somewhere on a compact disk or an old hard drive. Key words being somewhere, and at home.
The problem is I have every hard drive, compact disk and floppy disk I've owned since ooh 1990 or so. It fills a 2'×4' cabinet with lots of overflow piles.
#129
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Toyota's tool kit
Waiting for feedback on my "site feedback". I came across this image of a very nicely kept tool kit.
I have none of these except the "claw" and expect someone thought it was a part of a bracket or it just made its way to the bottom of the fender wells which is where I found it.
#130
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1 of 2, torque convert
FSM PDF page 626, AT-132 & AT-133
Stall test.
The object of this test is to check the overall performance of the transmission and engine by measuring the stall speeds in the drive and reverse ranges.
Measure stall speed.
A, chock the front and rear wheels.
B, connect a tachometer to the engine.
C, fully apply parking brake.
D, step down strongly on the brake pedal with one foot.
E, shift transfer lever to the H2 position.
F, start engine.
G, Shift into drive range. Step all the way down on the accelerator pedal with other foot. Quickly read the stall speed at this time
H, repeat test in R range.
Stall speed: 2200 variance 150 rpm.
.....
Evaluation.
A, if the speed is the same for both ranges but lower than specified:
Engine output may be insufficient.
Stator one way clutch is not operating properly.
NOTE: if more than 600 rpm below spec, the torque converter could be faulty.
B, if the stall speed in D range is higher than specified.
Low line pressure, forward clutch slip, #2 one-way clutch not operating properly, O/D one-way clutch not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
C, if the stall speed in R range is higher than specified.
Low line pressure, direct clutch slipping, first and reverse clutch slipping, O/D one-way not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
D, if the stall speed in both range are higher than spec.
Line pressure low, improper fluid level, O/D one-way clutch not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
Stall test.
The object of this test is to check the overall performance of the transmission and engine by measuring the stall speeds in the drive and reverse ranges.
Measure stall speed.
A, chock the front and rear wheels.
B, connect a tachometer to the engine.
C, fully apply parking brake.
D, step down strongly on the brake pedal with one foot.
E, shift transfer lever to the H2 position.
F, start engine.
G, Shift into drive range. Step all the way down on the accelerator pedal with other foot. Quickly read the stall speed at this time
H, repeat test in R range.
Stall speed: 2200 variance 150 rpm.
.....
Evaluation.
A, if the speed is the same for both ranges but lower than specified:
Engine output may be insufficient.
Stator one way clutch is not operating properly.
NOTE: if more than 600 rpm below spec, the torque converter could be faulty.
B, if the stall speed in D range is higher than specified.
Low line pressure, forward clutch slip, #2 one-way clutch not operating properly, O/D one-way clutch not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
C, if the stall speed in R range is higher than specified.
Low line pressure, direct clutch slipping, first and reverse clutch slipping, O/D one-way not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
D, if the stall speed in both range are higher than spec.
Line pressure low, improper fluid level, O/D one-way clutch not operating properly, transfer direct clutch slipping.
#131
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2 of 2, torque convert
.
Forward gear,
flash RPM, 1700-1750. (Transitions from vacuum to boost, here)
2 psi at just below 2000rpm
4 psi at or just above 2000rpm,( the brake let's loose here ,7 bars on digital boost meter, 2 mph indicated)
release throttle, rpm 2150, mph 3, vacuum just below neutral
Reverse gear,
flash 1650
(Exiting zero box) 1700 rpm, 1 bars
2psi just below 2000 rpm, 5 bars
5psi, 2100, 8 bars, mph (but I hear the tires spin)
Forward gear,
flash RPM, 1700-1750. (Transitions from vacuum to boost, here)
2 psi at just below 2000rpm
4 psi at or just above 2000rpm,( the brake let's loose here ,7 bars on digital boost meter, 2 mph indicated)
release throttle, rpm 2150, mph 3, vacuum just below neutral
Reverse gear,
flash 1650
(Exiting zero box) 1700 rpm, 1 bars
2psi just below 2000 rpm, 5 bars
5psi, 2100, 8 bars, mph (but I hear the tires spin)
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Jan 22, 2017 at 10:23 AM.
#132
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..
So that leads me to running the torque converter stall test. I had equal RPM for drive and reverse, around 1600rpm indicated on the dash gauge. The book spec in the 88 FSM is 1900 ±150 22-RE, doesn't list the RTE seperate. Google pops up an "I get ~2200 at 4psi" post, I didn't watch the boost gauges so not sure what I have for boost when stalled at that low of an RPM maybe 2psi if I had one bar showing on the digital dash gauge.
..
So that leads me to running the torque converter stall test. I had equal RPM for drive and reverse, around 1600rpm indicated on the dash gauge. The book spec in the 88 FSM is 1900 ±150 22-RE, doesn't list the RTE seperate. Google pops up an "I get ~2200 at 4psi" post, I didn't watch the boost gauges so not sure what I have for boost when stalled at that low of an RPM maybe 2psi if I had one bar showing on the digital dash gauge.
..
Results and procedures above.
Questions, comments, or concerns?
#133
#134
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Cold weather due back soon, yuck.
Time to check valve lash and head bolts.
Cylinder #3 was a mess. Intake valve loose enough to make noise when tapped with the feeler inserted, exhaust so tight I couldn't get the gauge inserted, and head bolt #5 moved at 60 foot pounds on the second click.
for torque checks. I use a three click test method for checking torque with a click style gauge. I use a hold & three count method when using the armature style.
For the valves, I will cinch the the feeler untill it's locked in place (overly tight) then back off approximately an 1/8 rotation, tightening the lock nut while focusing on the angle of the adjustment screw.
This gives me the most consistent results assuring the drag on the feeler is equal across the valves.
Similar the torqued item might decide it was prematurely bound.
Time to check valve lash and head bolts.
Cylinder #3 was a mess. Intake valve loose enough to make noise when tapped with the feeler inserted, exhaust so tight I couldn't get the gauge inserted, and head bolt #5 moved at 60 foot pounds on the second click.
for torque checks. I use a three click test method for checking torque with a click style gauge. I use a hold & three count method when using the armature style.
For the valves, I will cinch the the feeler untill it's locked in place (overly tight) then back off approximately an 1/8 rotation, tightening the lock nut while focusing on the angle of the adjustment screw.
This gives me the most consistent results assuring the drag on the feeler is equal across the valves.
Similar the torqued item might decide it was prematurely bound.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Feb 1, 2017 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Typo
#135
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Automatic transmission diagnosing
Need this to stick in the old brain, so type it out, if it doesn't stick I can refer back here..
Much like the engine the transmission has an electronic diagnostic system. This system will flash a warning indicator, and store codes, aswell it outputs various data on a diagnostic port. The warning lamp used is the "O/D off lamp". Various faults will pulse the indicator on and off when the ignition is switched to the run position, similar to the CEL.
The first step is the same as an engine fault, verify the battery voltage is above the threshold (11 volts or greater). Next verify the indicator lamp is functional, with the key in the run position toggle the OD from on to off the indicator should light indicating the bulb is functional. Return the OD switch to the on position, which turns off the indicator or the will not flash codes and stay lit.
Enter diagnostics by turning the key to the run position, ensure the OD switch is in the on position, locate and ground the DG terminal. The DG is located on the diagnostic sub assembly on the left hand inner fender, a single wire female spade terminal.
Once the DG is grounded the indicator (OD off lamp) will flash sequences similar to the CEL where a steady flashing indicates no errors(0.25second duration). These flash patterns are located in the manual, page 606 AT-112 in an 88 pdf. Codes are cancelled by removing the "STOP fuse" for a minimum of 10 seconds (temperature dependant).
Next perform preliminary checks.
If not as indicated, there is a mechanical fault.
... Consult manual for electrical control circuit flow charts page 614+ AT-120 ...
Inspect ECT sensor signals, page 622 AT-128
...Consult manual, Page 623 AT-129. Perform ECT ECU and component inspections. ...
Stall test and Shift lag. (Stall test above in seperate post)
Shift lag limits.
Neutral to Drive, 1.5 seconds.
Neutral to Reverse, 1.2 seconds.
.......
And we will stop here because it gets to pressure and road testing, and my memory bank is full I think.
Much like the engine the transmission has an electronic diagnostic system. This system will flash a warning indicator, and store codes, aswell it outputs various data on a diagnostic port. The warning lamp used is the "O/D off lamp". Various faults will pulse the indicator on and off when the ignition is switched to the run position, similar to the CEL.
The first step is the same as an engine fault, verify the battery voltage is above the threshold (11 volts or greater). Next verify the indicator lamp is functional, with the key in the run position toggle the OD from on to off the indicator should light indicating the bulb is functional. Return the OD switch to the on position, which turns off the indicator or the will not flash codes and stay lit.
Enter diagnostics by turning the key to the run position, ensure the OD switch is in the on position, locate and ground the DG terminal. The DG is located on the diagnostic sub assembly on the left hand inner fender, a single wire female spade terminal.
Once the DG is grounded the indicator (OD off lamp) will flash sequences similar to the CEL where a steady flashing indicates no errors(0.25second duration). These flash patterns are located in the manual, page 606 AT-112 in an 88 pdf. Codes are cancelled by removing the "STOP fuse" for a minimum of 10 seconds (temperature dependant).
- 42, Defective speed sensor #1 (in the dash cluster). Severed wire or short circuit.
- 51, Defective speed sensor #2 (in transmission). Severed wire short circuit.
- 62, solenoid #1
- 63, solenoid #2
- 64, lockup solenoid
- 65, solenoid #4
Next perform preliminary checks.
- Fluid level, vehicle level engine running cycle into each gear from Park to Low then return to park. Verify fluid level with stick.
- Chain driven transfer, remove fill plug inspect fluid is within 10mm of plug.
- Line pressure cable, throttle plate fully open, cable stop 0-1mm to rubber boot (to-do, need length of boot protrusion)
- Shift lever (transmission), operating freely, indicator accurateness.
- Neutral start switch, starter disable unless in Park or Neutral.
- Shift lever (transfer), operates freely, indicator accurateness.
- Transfer indicator switch, accurateness.
- Engine idle speed.
- Disconnect ECT computer (located at the front of the lever housing, may need to remove trim)
- If indistinct perform road test.
- Park, locked.
- R, reverse gear.
- L, 1st gear.
- 2, 3rd gear.
- D, Overdrive.
If not as indicated, there is a mechanical fault.
... Consult manual for electrical control circuit flow charts page 614+ AT-120 ...
Inspect ECT sensor signals, page 622 AT-128
- TPS signal, ignition to run, measure voltage at DG, throttle closed less than 1volt, voltage steps with throttle angle, throttle open greater than 8volt
- Brake signal, with throttle fully open voltage drops from 8 volts to 0 volts when brake pedal is depressed.
- Inspect upshift.
- warm up engine, coolant temp 176°
- OD switch to on
- Pattern select to Norm
- Road test, verify voltage corisponding with gear position and lockup activations.
- 1st gear, 0v
- 2nd gear, 2v
- 2nd gear lockup, 3v
- 3rd gear, 4v
- 3rd gear lockup, 5v
- O/D, 6v
- O/D lockup, 7v
...Consult manual, Page 623 AT-129. Perform ECT ECU and component inspections. ...
Stall test and Shift lag. (Stall test above in seperate post)
Shift lag limits.
Neutral to Drive, 1.5 seconds.
Neutral to Reverse, 1.2 seconds.
.......
And we will stop here because it gets to pressure and road testing, and my memory bank is full I think.
#136
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Recap/memory test transmission
Prelim: Voltage good(11v), no codes stored(OD on, ignition on, DG grounded) steady flashing.
Signals: TPS(0-8v with throttle angle), brake(0v brakes applied) and neutral safety signals(no start except N and P).
Manual shift: ECT ECU disco, shift L 1st, shift 2 3rd, shift D Overdrive.
Drive: gear match's voltage on DG
And I might have forgotten the rest.
.. Edit: I can live with that. Just missed the stall and lag test. No way I am memorizing the shift speeds that's why we have charts!
Signals: TPS(0-8v with throttle angle), brake(0v brakes applied) and neutral safety signals(no start except N and P).
Manual shift: ECT ECU disco, shift L 1st, shift 2 3rd, shift D Overdrive.
Drive: gear match's voltage on DG
And I might have forgotten the rest.
.. Edit: I can live with that. Just missed the stall and lag test. No way I am memorizing the shift speeds that's why we have charts!
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Jan 22, 2017 at 08:39 PM.
#137
I have never seen an EWD. I read about it all of the time, it would be nice to have one. We have sent in a request about the upload size limit to IB and seeing if they can change that.
#138
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Terry, I am reluctant to provide any direct links to any manuals for fear of making the "goons" aware and having someone issues a takedown notice. If you'd like I have re located the digital/e-copy 90-95 package of FSM and EWD I can point you towards in private. (PS, I do not believe this violates any rules here as technical data is mandated by various laws to be available to ALL Mechanics, owners, and interested parties for a reasonable price. The books have already been produced, are out of print in most cases, and the OEM has recovered any monitory investment)
FYI "takedown goon" is a legit career, they employ entire companies that do nothing but track down links and issue legal threats to websites that only link to and do not host to copyright material. I feel this is against the spirit of the network in lots of ways. While not condoning mass pirating of copyright material, I feel this is akin to me being responsible for harm to others by telling people bleach and ammonia are hazardous to mix. Litigation is out of hand when science chanels/media are censoring chemical names for fear of being sued for discussion of said materials.
FYI "takedown goon" is a legit career, they employ entire companies that do nothing but track down links and issue legal threats to websites that only link to and do not host to copyright material. I feel this is against the spirit of the network in lots of ways. While not condoning mass pirating of copyright material, I feel this is akin to me being responsible for harm to others by telling people bleach and ammonia are hazardous to mix. Litigation is out of hand when science chanels/media are censoring chemical names for fear of being sued for discussion of said materials.
#139
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Mechanic stethoscope worth every penny for locating engine noises..
In mine somewhere was the horrible tapping sounds, at first I was sure it was the valve train, I found cylinder #3 to have improper lash on both sides intake was loose and exhaust was tight. When I restart it was no difference from beforehand. Maybe the valve cover was impacted From over tighten acorn nuts, so I backed them off to finger tight and got no change at all. Thinking the grommets were squished and pinched, so a little looser on the acorn and pried the grommets up and tighten the acorn to just barely seal, not a bit of difference. Back them off again and inspecting the gasket it looks to be protruding maybe to much like it rolled so lever it in flush and pretty hand tighten the acorns. At this point I'm about ready to Dremel down the oil baffle so lifted the rear of the cover enough to leak, it's still not a bit of change. Now I am thinking valve impact, wrist pins, or I am crazy..
Probe along both sides of the head, up and down the block along the oil pan, as im laying under the bellhousing just staring at it is obviously coming from the intake side, now that the fan isn't droning and obscuring the sound origin. I crawl atop the engine and it's for sure the intake side at the rear, something along and under the plenum...
It's the injectors clattering specifically #4's clatter rebounding off the firewall. which I just didn't think would be that much louder than I remember the 94 being.. but those are different style/type and speced..
Today that's a funny story, yesterday not one bit
In mine somewhere was the horrible tapping sounds, at first I was sure it was the valve train, I found cylinder #3 to have improper lash on both sides intake was loose and exhaust was tight. When I restart it was no difference from beforehand. Maybe the valve cover was impacted From over tighten acorn nuts, so I backed them off to finger tight and got no change at all. Thinking the grommets were squished and pinched, so a little looser on the acorn and pried the grommets up and tighten the acorn to just barely seal, not a bit of difference. Back them off again and inspecting the gasket it looks to be protruding maybe to much like it rolled so lever it in flush and pretty hand tighten the acorns. At this point I'm about ready to Dremel down the oil baffle so lifted the rear of the cover enough to leak, it's still not a bit of change. Now I am thinking valve impact, wrist pins, or I am crazy..
Probe along both sides of the head, up and down the block along the oil pan, as im laying under the bellhousing just staring at it is obviously coming from the intake side, now that the fan isn't droning and obscuring the sound origin. I crawl atop the engine and it's for sure the intake side at the rear, something along and under the plenum...
It's the injectors clattering specifically #4's clatter rebounding off the firewall. which I just didn't think would be that much louder than I remember the 94 being.. but those are different style/type and speced..
Today that's a funny story, yesterday not one bit
Don't guess, investigate!!
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Jan 23, 2017 at 06:41 PM.
#140
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My Toyota addiction has turned up a new document set I would like to locate..
the Toyota training manuals, TEAM "Toyota education for automotive mastery".
Found #1.
2, 4, 9 and 10, are relevant to 36522
the Toyota training manuals, TEAM "Toyota education for automotive mastery".
This Training Manual has been prepared for the use of technicians employed by Toyota's overseas distributors and dealers. This manual, "TCCS (Toyota Computer-Controlled System)", is Volume 1 of the thirteen Training Manuals which constitute Step 3 of the program of skills which all Toyota New TEAM* technicians should master. It should also be used by the instructor in conjunction with the accompanying Instruction Guide.
The titles of the New TEAM Step 3 Training Manuals are as follows :
VOL. TRAINING MANUALS
1 TCCS (Toyota Computer-Controlled System)
2 Turbocharger & Supercharger
3 Diesel Injection Pump
4 ECT (Electronically-Controlled Transmission)
5 Full-Time 4WD
6 TEMS & Air Suspension
7 ABS & Traction Control System
8 NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness )
9 Fundamentals of Electronics
10 CCS (Cruise Control System )
11 Car Audio System
12 Automatic Air Conditioning System
13 SRS Airbag & Seat Belt Pretensioner
...
*TEAM: TEAM stands for 'Technical Education for Automotive Mastery', which is a training program divided into three steps according to the technician's technical level. This program makes it possible for technicians to receive the appropriate training for their level in a systematic manner so as to help them achieve the skills and efficiency of skilled technicians in the shortest possible time .
The titles of the New TEAM Step 3 Training Manuals are as follows :
VOL. TRAINING MANUALS
2 Turbocharger & Supercharger
3 Diesel Injection Pump
4 ECT (Electronically-Controlled Transmission)
5 Full-Time 4WD
6 TEMS & Air Suspension
7 ABS & Traction Control System
8 NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness )
9 Fundamentals of Electronics
10 CCS (Cruise Control System )
11 Car Audio System
12 Automatic Air Conditioning System
13 SRS Airbag & Seat Belt Pretensioner
...
*TEAM: TEAM stands for 'Technical Education for Automotive Mastery', which is a training program divided into three steps according to the technician's technical level. This program makes it possible for technicians to receive the appropriate training for their level in a systematic manner so as to help them achieve the skills and efficiency of skilled technicians in the shortest possible time .
2, 4, 9 and 10, are relevant to 36522
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Jan 24, 2017 at 07:34 AM.






