I know a couple of body shops that charge double for doing a color change. I would see what they would charge before doing a color change. probably depends on how far you want to go with it as far as door jams and under the hood. If you are doing it yourself it isnt so bad. When you get to that stage, let me know and I can post several pictures and tips that will help you out. Stripping the bumper, trim and other things will save you a ton if you are going to send one to a body shop as well and you will get better results as some will just tape around areas and that is a poor way of doing it in my opinion and you will get better results with out all the trim and such on.

 

Lots of stories of the low cost paint jobs failing due to just being sprayed without scuffing, not degreased, poor masking, overspray that doesn't come from your color.

Very good examples of why I would rather do it myself. I'd like to do the spraying also even if it would be a first time, I know others would have better results using less paint ect, but I know they come out tougher when done in a good booth with temperature and humidity controlled. Plus you don't have to sand out bugs!

At least of I do the work I'm not surprised by finding any shortfalls questioning what was or wasn't done.

I have mismatched sheet metal and lots of it. Right front fender is off a blueberry one and was rattle canned in black, the rear quarter hasn't been repaired yet, the tailgate is red, the left rear quarter was patched with a silver panel, front fender looks like it might be an e-coat it's black, my roof is grey and I'm hoping that it's sealer not bare primer. So it's sort of a recolor no matter what I go with. What I have seen of the inside doesn't look horrible but it's going to need attention for the quarter panels and the front corner you can see daylight thru. (from being clearenced for oversized tires and maybe some trail damage, I like to pretend it was trail damage, but bet they used a sledge to beat the pinch weld and it's separated)

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So I have a mystery plug lurking in the left kick panel. Anyone know what this is?

And my peep hole..

 

Oh believe me it's all interesting and very helpful!

As far as I know it's all stock Toyota parts and pieces. I have the driver's kick panel removed now to check some fuses. I can pull the passenger kick panel and look. It's drivable now except for the seats. The driver's side frame is cracked about an inch and a half due to a screw missing on the back release (wouldn't recline or sit up, I think the PO. Broke the frame pushing on it). Also the passenger seat is missing all of the cables and wires that allow it to tumble and slide. So now I'm looking for someone near me that can weld up the frame for the time being. I'll get seats later. I just need these so I can get back out on the trails!

 

its likely stock if they didn't use it as a selling point.
do you have that dangling wire also? Maybe power mirrors I'm not really sure, I haven't even touched it, like at all it's right where it was hanging when the cover was opened

 

I forgot my newest find!! An old school, torches and lead radiator shop! God bless farmers and old school tractors..

 

Edit later for individual pics its being difficult..

Windshield album link

 

Well it was in the add when I found it on CL but, it was buried in the text of the description. Mine has the power mirror directional adjust pad on the dash but the mirrors look to be the hand adjustable units. Also it looks like someone has changed the doors out to truck doors, since I'm missing the rear door handle on the passenger side. Anyway, here's a pic of the kick panel contents.

 

The pic turned out a little blurry. I don't normally use my tablet for pics.

 

Awhile back I asked what the OEM inspection light looked like and was wanting an photo. (I'm not sure where, maybe in this thread?)

Turned up a thread and an image.. a part number and bulb spec
12v 10watt..

LAMP ASSY, INSPECTION.

81370-89101

discontinued for my model but..



Image from this thread.. list price ~40$. Here

 

I can see that getting plugged into a house plug and getting very bright for a split second!!! Lol

 

i once replaced a 120v oven lamp with a 12v halogen on accident. No bright light just an explosion.

 

Today's quest was relocating the data stream format of the early model obd. I had the basics way back when, 8 bit data(1 start bit, 2 stop bits I wasn't sure if it was LSB or MSB first and how many data words) output at incredible slow transfer speeds, updates in excess of 1second.

I read through a nine page thread over at toymods.org.au, taking notes and grumbling at every dead image link. Finally at the end the last link not only was still good, it was gold pure gold! Source code for a pic16 to read the data and display it on an LCD!

Wilbo, BK and the others are today's heroes,

​​​​​​The code is designed for the Supra iirc but it's just a few small changes for not having a map sensor and such. It will need some modifications..
..
Now I'm not certain the first generation has the DLC, or if the required te2 is exposed from the CPU.

So the next step is to locate the plug, if there is one it's a medium sized plug and likely under the steering wheel area.

Anybody seen this plug? I don't think we have it and it would require mod to the ECU board to break it out..

Images here and links to another version of the required code

.. forgot one
There is also a rather in-depth look at the Toyota ECU internal code from a Supra.
Here

 

If you was to go and paint it yourself, that is where sealer makes different colored panels all one color. Some people dont like to use sealer and say it is a waste of money others like it. I prefer sealer so that the truck is one solid color. Also sealer gives you one final chance at working any dents that you will see before applying paint.

I know you have seen my 20 gallon air compressor in my threads. I got it for $50 at a flea market. I used the old fashioned siphon paint gun from harbor freight I think you can get a for about $20. I know before I started painting, I was afraid the truck would just melt away or be headed for the scrap heap if I painted it. The work is in the body work and getting it ready for paint. Even painting is not as scary as it may seem. I have never had a run in the paint. It is the clear coat that gives me trouble and it is not anything to be worried about as any runs can be wet sanded out. It does take a lot of elbow grease to get clear coat nice and smooth but I just do a panel at a time and sometimes it can take me months to get a whole truck done as I will do a panel and not get to another panel for a while.

I have painted outside on a real nice calm day with temps above 70 degree. Mine look great in the pictures but I would not consider them show room perfect by any means, but I will say with all of the flaws that usually only you would probably notice, it is a real rewarding experience when it is looking new and going down the road. Base coat/clear coat really isnt as difficult as it may seem and other then the paint, the equipment used can be cheap. Dont let painting scare you off from doing it.

I have a radiator leak that I am going to try and fix with with a torch and solder tomorrow if all goes well. I cant see lead being much more difficult, maybe something that if the solder does not work, I will give lead a try.

 

Help, cruise control computer not entering type A code retrieval.

Finally got new filter materials for the actuator ports. Oh yeah guess i never posted about all that cause i couldnt upload photos here...

I was unable to activate the type A code retrieval, so figured i would clean and inspect all the components.

So i removed the cruise control assembly, cleaned all the connections and bench tested every thing on the sub assembly. Vacuum switch, vacuum pump, actuator coils, diaphragm. There were minor cracks in the diaphragm but no leaks, the filter material however was baked dry and crumbling when i pulled it no signs it had injested any. I got some fresh foam put in last night finally. Now its all back together and mounted up.

Today I unmounted the computer to verify the switch from the wheel was functioning, and it is operating as it should.

I am still unable to trigger the code retrieval for the first chart in the 88 manual.

​​​​​​Ignition to run/on
Switch to set, and held on
Cruise control main switch to on
Release set
Meet condition x y z...
Read cruise indicator light dor code..

I get nothing, no change in indicator light steady on..

However if i trigger B codes by toggling rhe set switch three times it begins to flash.

Its crazy hard to count how many it does untill it stops, it doesnt use the two flash style of second generation, have to count them all. I am getting I think 37, not really sure between the 34 and 41 listed in the 2nd gen book.

Is there a different procedure listed in the 86 book?
Is there a longer code list in the 86 book?

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I don't think I'll ever use the cruise on my Runner... If I did He it didn't work, well I'd just keep on keepin' on. After reading all of your tech, my head hurts, lol.

 

I have never worked on Cruise Control on one of these trucks. Only had Cruise Control on one and it was so butchered up that I could not get all of the parts. I have heard the Cruise Control was not very good even when new. I have never got to try one out. Eventually I want to install an aftermarket on my trucks.

 

My second gen cruise control rocked. I loved it. Especially on long trips. Didn't work on hills, but it's a toyota. Need to drop a gear or 3 anyways.

if I swap columns, I'm going for a second gen wheel with cruise. Or a removable wheel with a hub lock for when the doors are off. We'll see.

 

Convince the local parts counter person to find and print wire assembly diagrams applicable to the early 86 model. (Note: when you see two part numbers listed for your model year it is due to the actual build date, so have the month/year off your door tag handy)

90980 prefix is for wire housings!

Example

 

Think the aftermarket radio keeps killing my battery.. will need to pull the dash apart and find out where they ran the constant power from so I can disconnect it then check for other parasites. Should only be the dash clock and that's not draining a car battery in less than a week!

OK on with the show!
Cruise control, still not able to trigger the first diagnostic mode. No one's confirmed it's listed the same in the 86 books.

Printed out the computer circuit inspections to use as a check list and headed out into the snow( yes in snow, just to prove I'm serious about making it work, miner frostbite be damned )

Battery's sagging bad I get about 10volts, I did try to turn it over twice before I started to get the heater going so my bad sort of. Also not on the greatest of ground points, uses the stop arm inside the door to clip to because the harness ground in the kick panel is in a bad spot and my clip tends to pop off I'd I bump it.

Stop fuse, voltage, 16-gnd, 10v~ (all numbers will be ~, about X)
Stoplight switch, 15-gnd, 8v on 0v off
Main switch, 10-gnd, switch glitches at the low voltage have to fiddle with it, got 10v/0v
INDICATOR, 3-gnd, same as above
Park switch, To-do not tested

Release valve, 2-14, 69ohm
Control valve, 4-14, 33ohm

Set/coast, 5-gnd, on tone, off no tone
Resume/accel, 17-gnd, on tone, off no tone
Start switch (NSS), 11-gnd, tone, no tone (questionable, only pulled back out of park, actually used the slop it needs adjust and tighten)
Vacuum pump, 1-gnd, tone
Ground, 13-gnd, tone
Vacuum switch, 9-gnd, no vac tone, not tested with vacuum. ( Was bench tested but not with gauge)
Parking switch, 12-gnd, not tested visually verified button not stuck.

To-do/retest
Vacuum to vac switch. 9-g, No tone w/ 8.66in.Hg
Parking switch. 12-g, remove charge fuse, ignition on, brake applied no voltage, brake released B+
Speed sensor. One pulse per 40cm(15.75")
Nss, full test moving gears vs neutral and park.

.. and my thumb is still numb woohoo fun to type with


Could build my own cc ECU but not really interested rather it just worked as intended with all the safety stuff!

I'm thinking maybe the speed sensor which relates to the dash glitches, which relates to the low battery as far as I can tell. So I'm not sure and kind of stumped.

The gauges didn't have any loose screws or dirty contacts and still glitched when I put it back in. It finally resolved itself with a good tight alternator belt and good long drive.

However it did glitch the last time I took it out for a drive, pulls over cycled the key and didn't have any more problems before it got parked that I recall.
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