Liveoffroad's '84 4runner build
#483
I have a s-ton of extra All-Pro bushings left over from my suspension upgrade (they sent me like 2x more than was necessary). PM me your address brother and how many you need and I'll send them your way. These ones here are the ones I'm talking about: https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489suspension/277
I'm heart broken to hear that your Moab trip wasn't good. I suppose the only way to make up for it is to come out with us in September! Our plans have changed and we are now going to camp at the group campsite at the Big Bend BLM campsite right on the bank of the Colorado river.
I'm heart broken to hear that your Moab trip wasn't good. I suppose the only way to make up for it is to come out with us in September! Our plans have changed and we are now going to camp at the group campsite at the Big Bend BLM campsite right on the bank of the Colorado river.
haven't had time to dive into this yet, hoping to pull the case tonight. already have a spare tranny to throw in but I'm pretty sure a t-case rebuild is in order
#484
Budbuilt issues
Edit: I talked to budbuilt on the phone today and they were very helpful
I've had a budbuilt crossmember on my truck for about a year now. My initial review of the company was that they build great products but they were a little slow (took a month to get my crossmember after ordering.) recently i've run into another issue with them. while trying to remove my skid plate, i found that 2 of the 4 allen-head bolts would not budge. I tried every allen wrench i could find but inevitably, the heads stripped before they would crack loose. Consequently, i spent the better part of an evening drilling out 2 of the bolts. I have dealt with this before, the first time i removed the skid plate the bolts were difficult to break free so i put a little grease on the counter-sink portion of the plate to keep them from binding. this obviously wasn't a long-term fix. I believe this is a design flaw with this product since i've read at least a couple other posts where people have had similar issues. There may be an easy fix, budbuilt reccommended stainless bolts so i'm going to try them out. I think other brands do use the same type of bolts, so I’m not sure if there’s better options out there, but hopefully this helps someone
I've had a budbuilt crossmember on my truck for about a year now. My initial review of the company was that they build great products but they were a little slow (took a month to get my crossmember after ordering.) recently i've run into another issue with them. while trying to remove my skid plate, i found that 2 of the 4 allen-head bolts would not budge. I tried every allen wrench i could find but inevitably, the heads stripped before they would crack loose. Consequently, i spent the better part of an evening drilling out 2 of the bolts. I have dealt with this before, the first time i removed the skid plate the bolts were difficult to break free so i put a little grease on the counter-sink portion of the plate to keep them from binding. this obviously wasn't a long-term fix. I believe this is a design flaw with this product since i've read at least a couple other posts where people have had similar issues. There may be an easy fix, budbuilt reccommended stainless bolts so i'm going to try them out. I think other brands do use the same type of bolts, so I’m not sure if there’s better options out there, but hopefully this helps someone
Last edited by liveoffroad; Apr 17, 2015 at 05:40 AM.
#485
Edit: I talked to budbuilt on the phone today and they were very helpful
I've had a budbuilt crossmember on my truck for about a year now. My initial review of the company was that they build great products but they were a little slow (took a month to get my crossmember after ordering.) recently i've run into another issue with them. while trying to remove my skid plate, i found that 2 of the 4 allen-head bolts would not budge. I tried every allen wrench i could find but inevitably, the heads stripped before they would crack loose. Consequently, i spent the better part of an evening drilling out 2 of the bolts. I have dealt with this before, the first time i removed the skid plate the bolts were difficult to break free so i put a little grease on the counter-sink portion of the plate to keep them from binding. this obviously wasn't a long-term fix. I believe this is a design flaw with this product since i've read at least a couple other posts where people have had similar issues. There may be an easy fix, budbuilt reccommended stainless bolts so i'm going to try them out. I think other brands do use the same type of bolts, so I’m not sure if there’s better options out there, but hopefully this helps someone
I've had a budbuilt crossmember on my truck for about a year now. My initial review of the company was that they build great products but they were a little slow (took a month to get my crossmember after ordering.) recently i've run into another issue with them. while trying to remove my skid plate, i found that 2 of the 4 allen-head bolts would not budge. I tried every allen wrench i could find but inevitably, the heads stripped before they would crack loose. Consequently, i spent the better part of an evening drilling out 2 of the bolts. I have dealt with this before, the first time i removed the skid plate the bolts were difficult to break free so i put a little grease on the counter-sink portion of the plate to keep them from binding. this obviously wasn't a long-term fix. I believe this is a design flaw with this product since i've read at least a couple other posts where people have had similar issues. There may be an easy fix, budbuilt reccommended stainless bolts so i'm going to try them out. I think other brands do use the same type of bolts, so I’m not sure if there’s better options out there, but hopefully this helps someone
#486
I bought a used Budbuilt and I had similar issue, I broke off an Allen wrench in there trying to loosen them. Stupid me used the ball end and it snapped the Allen wrench right at the ball. I could not find a tapered Allen bolt to fit at any of my local HW stores, so I emailed Budbuilt and they sent me a bolt for free. I'm not a Mechanical Engineer, so I'm not sure of all the options for bolt heads, but I guess the Allen head is about all they can reasonably source for a recessed bolt like that, I don't like Allen head bolts and I wish they used something different, but I still like the Budbuilt and their customer service is pretty good. I imagine that if I ever have to remove mine, I'll run into the same issue as you and have to drill them out.
#487
update
since returning from moab, i've been tearing into my truck to resolve several issues:
1. transmission/transfer case noise
2. steering is loose
3. rear shocks aren't dampening enough
1. I've known my transmission was on its last leg for a while now, so i've had a spare waiting to go in. I couldn’t tell if all of the noise was coming from the tranny, or if the t-case was making noise too. Plus the front output had more play than I was comfortable with, so I decided to go ahead and tear it down while I had it out. I was reluctant to do so after seeing pictures of how many small parts are in these things, but I’m glad I did. I followed marlin’s instructions and it was very easy and straight forward. Turns out, everything looked great inside, except for the spedo gear. This thing has been eating speed sensors since I’ve owned it and now I know why:
Old on right, new on left


You can see what its been doing to the speed sensor (old on right, new on left)

After a short call to marlin crawler, they had one lying around so i had a replacement on its way for a grand charge of 5$. Those guys are the best around for customer service! I also had them send me the front output bearing, and their ecoseal kit so I could freshen up the output seals.


Got that all buttoned up last night. While I was in there, I pulled the interlock pin so I can finally run the twin-stick I’ve had sitting around for 2 years now. Here it is all ready to go back in. Hopefully this “new” tranny is in better shape than my old one

2. When it comes to steering, I was really starting to get frustrated. After installing a new high-steer setup and completely rebuilding the axle I still had wandering and bumpsteer that made the truck dangerous to drive. I decided, as a sort of final attempt to fix this issue, to replace the shackle bushings… and I may have had a breakthrough. The shackle bolts were tight, but I found that the shackles had been rotating on the bolt, not on the bushing like they’re supposed to. This caused the holes in the shackles to wear, resulting in a TON of play. With the spring unloaded, I could grab the back of the leaf and move it about 6”!! So that meant I needed new shackles, but my truck budget has been exhausted for this year so I improvised. I added some weld to the bold and ground it down until the bolt fit snug in the shackle hole again. Then, some new bushings and hopefully this issue is resolved. (this is a short-term fix, new shackles are on the wish-list)
3. My rear shocks have always been a little under-damped, but for some reason this problem perpetuated after I did the high-steer. I’m thinking it has to do with the fact that I’m not running the “torque” rod on the front axle anymore, which made the front suspension much softer now. With the front softer, the rear is moving a lot more on the road. It was very bad on my last trip, felt like i didn't even have rear shocks! I looked at relocating the shocks more vertical, which would increase dampening, but I only had a couple inches to work with, I'd have to buy shorter shocks, and it would be a lot of work so I ruled that out.
\
So I looked into getting a heavier valved shock. Bilstein doesn’t have a ton of valving options for the 5125, so I’d have to go with the 7100 series and they come with a nice price tag! So I opted for the rancho 9000. I am a tried-and-true bilstein guy, but 7100 bilsteins are almost twice the price of rancho 9000s so I didn’t have a lot of choice here. I’ve ran rancho 9000’s before and I liked them just fine. In addition, I like the adjustability, especially for a rear shock since my load ranges from empty and topless, to loaded down with several hundred pounds of camping gear.
1. transmission/transfer case noise
2. steering is loose
3. rear shocks aren't dampening enough
1. I've known my transmission was on its last leg for a while now, so i've had a spare waiting to go in. I couldn’t tell if all of the noise was coming from the tranny, or if the t-case was making noise too. Plus the front output had more play than I was comfortable with, so I decided to go ahead and tear it down while I had it out. I was reluctant to do so after seeing pictures of how many small parts are in these things, but I’m glad I did. I followed marlin’s instructions and it was very easy and straight forward. Turns out, everything looked great inside, except for the spedo gear. This thing has been eating speed sensors since I’ve owned it and now I know why:
Old on right, new on left


You can see what its been doing to the speed sensor (old on right, new on left)

After a short call to marlin crawler, they had one lying around so i had a replacement on its way for a grand charge of 5$. Those guys are the best around for customer service! I also had them send me the front output bearing, and their ecoseal kit so I could freshen up the output seals.


Got that all buttoned up last night. While I was in there, I pulled the interlock pin so I can finally run the twin-stick I’ve had sitting around for 2 years now. Here it is all ready to go back in. Hopefully this “new” tranny is in better shape than my old one

2. When it comes to steering, I was really starting to get frustrated. After installing a new high-steer setup and completely rebuilding the axle I still had wandering and bumpsteer that made the truck dangerous to drive. I decided, as a sort of final attempt to fix this issue, to replace the shackle bushings… and I may have had a breakthrough. The shackle bolts were tight, but I found that the shackles had been rotating on the bolt, not on the bushing like they’re supposed to. This caused the holes in the shackles to wear, resulting in a TON of play. With the spring unloaded, I could grab the back of the leaf and move it about 6”!! So that meant I needed new shackles, but my truck budget has been exhausted for this year so I improvised. I added some weld to the bold and ground it down until the bolt fit snug in the shackle hole again. Then, some new bushings and hopefully this issue is resolved. (this is a short-term fix, new shackles are on the wish-list)
3. My rear shocks have always been a little under-damped, but for some reason this problem perpetuated after I did the high-steer. I’m thinking it has to do with the fact that I’m not running the “torque” rod on the front axle anymore, which made the front suspension much softer now. With the front softer, the rear is moving a lot more on the road. It was very bad on my last trip, felt like i didn't even have rear shocks! I looked at relocating the shocks more vertical, which would increase dampening, but I only had a couple inches to work with, I'd have to buy shorter shocks, and it would be a lot of work so I ruled that out.
\So I looked into getting a heavier valved shock. Bilstein doesn’t have a ton of valving options for the 5125, so I’d have to go with the 7100 series and they come with a nice price tag! So I opted for the rancho 9000. I am a tried-and-true bilstein guy, but 7100 bilsteins are almost twice the price of rancho 9000s so I didn’t have a lot of choice here. I’ve ran rancho 9000’s before and I liked them just fine. In addition, I like the adjustability, especially for a rear shock since my load ranges from empty and topless, to loaded down with several hundred pounds of camping gear.
Last edited by liveoffroad; May 1, 2015 at 06:57 AM.
#488
That speedometer drive gear looks nuts. That's such a crazy wear pattern. I wonder how that happened and if that's what wear in that thing always looks like.
That's awesome that Marlin sells transmission internals so reasonably.
I just bought shocks too. The FOX 2.0 IFP is a totally rebuildable, revalvable smooth body non emulsion shock.
That's awesome that Marlin sells transmission internals so reasonably.
I just bought shocks too. The FOX 2.0 IFP is a totally rebuildable, revalvable smooth body non emulsion shock.
#489
That speedometer drive gear looks nuts. That's such a crazy wear pattern. I wonder how that happened and if that's what wear in that thing always looks like.
That's awesome that Marlin sells transmission internals so reasonably.
I just bought shocks too. The FOX 2.0 IFP is a totally rebuildable, revalvable smooth body non emulsion shock.
That's awesome that Marlin sells transmission internals so reasonably.
I just bought shocks too. The FOX 2.0 IFP is a totally rebuildable, revalvable smooth body non emulsion shock.
btw, it was on the t-case, not the transmission
#493
thanks!
thanks man! you've got a good thing going on yours too. my 1st truck was an 86 4runner that i bought from my dad, it was in amazing shape but i didn't know what i had so when i blew up the trans i sold it. still kicking myself about that one
thanks man! you've got a good thing going on yours too. my 1st truck was an 86 4runner that i bought from my dad, it was in amazing shape but i didn't know what i had so when i blew up the trans i sold it. still kicking myself about that one
#496
#497
Short throw twin sticks! Lol. What tranny setup do you have in that? My FROR twins don't exactly work with my setup either. The range stick can't have a knob on it because the trans shifter hits it
#498
Yea sounds about how mine were before i modified them. I'm still running a G54
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