Cool Idea hope it works out!!
I am a big VW fan and I love the tdi,great motor ecu upgrade makes TONS of power

 

i dont get this drawing, im trying to make a cnc tool path but dont know how big everything is??
(The width of the plate, where the holes are located etc..)

 

The drawing only shows the hole locations. They are just two plates I drew so that I could rotate them around center. If you look I use the big hole in the middle as a reference for center. Then I reference one of the holes in the top right as 0,0. Then all holes go off that hole. That is how I drilled it on my mill.

I drew up a contour picture that I can post but it is not perfect but would work. It actually shows the shape that I can dimension. I will post it up tomorrow. The only thing is that the cut out for the starter I just guessed on.

 

Here are some better drawings. The one that shows the contour is not the actual one I used but I took rough measurements and made it. I did not dimension the cutout for the starter because I had to modify what I had so I don't know what that will be until you put it on the engine.

 

hopefully by the end of the day ill have a 3d model and toolpath ready to be cut in mastercam.

 

Heres what i got, ready to be cnc'd

 

The holes with the counter sink, the outer diameter of the bore is about 1". I could have sent you a file of the drawing in a solid. I am using Autodesk Inventor. Save having to draw it over again. I still can if you want. Oh ya the plate is 3/8's thick.

That large radius at the top may need to be made into a straight or at lease cut back.

 

yah if you want to send a file to my email i could look at it. Yah the countersink's are half inch for a rough guess, and yes the plate is 3/8
hackyour360.com@gmail.com

 

what has this cost thus far?

 

Well I had the Jetta that I paided $5000 for 5 years ago, so I won't count that becuase it had been a good car for the 5 years until the trans went out. $1000 bucks a year is good in my books.
I bought the truck off ebay for $1800 and the body was junk. Bought the current cab for $400.
Other then that I have only spent maybe $200 on hoses and odds and ends. Everything else I built myself like the adapter and stuff. Most of the stuff I have left to buy is for the truck not the engine swap. The exhaust will be a few hundread and that will be it.

 

my hat's off to you....it's a pretty ambitious endeavor.

 

Looking good, been following in the shadows for a while. Good Job!

Few Questions though:
1. Is the motor mounted so that the pistons are vertical, or is it still leaning like in the jetta application? I ask this because of the oilpan sump sits to one side. Possible oil starvation in a turn? Just a thought.

2. How thick is your adapter plate? Were there complications with getting the pilot shaft/bushing seated properly due to the plate thickness?

3. Starter mounts to the trans bellhousing, correct? So no fitment issues there yet?

4. Clearance issues found so far:
a. coolant out from head conflicts with firewall
b. alternator vs. steering
c. oil pan vs. IFS crossmember.
Does that pretty much cover them all? Still thinking of solid front axle for mine, but they are harder to find than IFS, thus why I am paying alot of attention to your progress.

I've also been watching along with Zooky's progress in the 2wd, for the auto tranny info. You guys are really laying down the groundwork!

 

The engine is tipped a bit but not very much. I think 5 degrees. It was not much in the jetta anyway. I have not heard of this being a problem but I will be watching my guage close for a while.

Adapter plate was 3/8 think. This was perfect for the trans shaft. Also the hole in the crank is deep so the bushing can be pushed in a bit if it hits the taper on the shaft.

No Problems with starter yet. Yes it does mount to the trans which is stock location. I think it will be very tight for the exhaust though. I will have to put a shield on it. The clutch slave is also down that side causing a very tight spot for exhaust as well. I have not got there yet but will take pics.

Your clearance list is right but the oil pan clearance is for the top of the Diff not the cross member. Not really a problem but it means that you can't drop the engine much to help with the firewall issue. I can't stress this enough, if you push the trans foward 2 or 3 inches before you start you will have a much easier time. You may not have the steering problems and your mounts will be easier. Also more room for exhaust and that coolent port may not need to be modified.
You will have to do something with the drive shafts though, so up to you which is easier to deal with.

My progress has slowed a bit. I got the new guage cluster in and dash back together, Oil cooler/filter connected, rad in, glow plug relay (ford starter relay) mounted, most of the coolent hoses run, started wiring glow plugs.

It is getting nice outside so I should be getting it started soon.

 

Okay here are the latest pics. I am not sure that the oil cooler is going to stay down there but I have no where else to put it. I think it will be okay. I is very thick and robust not like a rad.

Here is the spacers for the power steering


Here you can see where I had to cut the body a bit.


The rad, needs some paint..........


The remote oil filter and lines


The cooler on the skid plate


The VW fuel filter and the ford solinoid for the glow plugs. I am just putting them on a button in the cab.

 

hello, your build is coming along nicely Flash319. I followed your link in my thread on Zuwharrie, my build is coming along s l o w. I like how you addressed the steering box-alternator clearance, I ended up modifying my steering shaft with a smaller U-joint and converted to manual steering because the input is shorter. I had the firewall clearence issue also but I moved the engine and transmission forward an inch or two, I also had to modify the oil pan so the engine would sit lower since I dont have a body lift. The engine does fit in there nice, there is room for a huge intercooler, I used a volvo one (see pic). I want to get mine back on the road and am seriously considering swapping a 5-speed. Was the manual pedal assembly a direct bolt in for the auto one?

 

Glad to see you made it to Yotatech Zooky .

The pedal assy is a direct bolt in. The only thing you have to do is cut a hole for the master cylinder. So if you can find a doner truck grab the pedal assy, master and slave cylinder and you are good. You have to pull the steering shaft out to get the bracket out though. 6 bolts I think.

Thanks for the lower hose pic. You have way more room in there then I do because you don't have the front drive stuff. I picked up a copper 90 and will see how it fits tomorrow. I am finding it hard to find straight rad hose though.

I like your rad/intercooler setup. It fits like it should be there.

Your engine sits nice and low too. This would be a easier swap in a solid axel truck like Rockclods. Nothing under the engine.

 

man that rad looks pretty ruggid !!!

 

His engine bay looks factory! He's kept it so clean with the install.

I have used brass sink drain pipe to plumb strait runs of coolant hoses in the past with good success in both boats and auto projects. Here's a pic of one used for my merce-jeep project. That's a bung soldered in for the temp sender in the center.

 

DieselJunkie, Whats that intake from that is turned up with the filter on it? I will have to do something similar as I am running out of fender space for a proper airbox.

Is that a 5 cylinder? I bet that works good in there. Seams to fit nice.

 

If I told you, I'd be lying to you. I did this conversion at a buddies body/mechanic shop who's been in business for over 25 years, and that was one of probably a dozen different pieces I tried that came from the "spare parts" pile. Many pieces on that job were from MULTIPLE donors.

It's the 3.0L I-5 mercedes turbodiesel from a 78 300SD. I was VERY happy with the swap as a whole and would still be driving it if not for hurricane Katrina. I still have it, and have salvaged the motor/tranny, still waiting for something else to put it in.

If you (or anybody) want's more info on that old project, email at vwdieseljunkie at yahoo. I don't want to hijack a really good vw/toy thread with mercedes stuff.