Flash is still around here from time to time G.

 

Hi all. Been a while. I guess I will retort to the question of selling the conversion.

First off it was not because it would not start when it was cold, although it was a bitch. That was due to the engine being warn out. Diesel + low compression = no start. Also I live in Canada so -35, working afternoons (leaving work at midnight) and screwing around to get the truck started is not fun. But I knew this going in.

Second is that I haul wood from my property 2.5 hours away to my house. Truck loaded plus a 4x8 trailer loaded and she was working. Thats an understatement actually. It did do it a few times but I was worried about reliability doing this. It is a car engine after all and my EGT's were very high all the time due to the small turbo. Aluminum heads don't like that much.....

I am glad I did it and it was fun to drive. I TDI would have been better though. Rock crawling and playing, this is a very good engine but it is not a truck engine and I should have thought more about what I wanted from the truck. If I could do it again I would get a 3L turbo Toyota diesel. Oh ya and I love the simplicity and reliability of the 22re. I am never worried about not making it.

Oh ya and I can say I did it I'm moving on.....

 

i dont know if this was brought up...

but a corrado G60 or a 12v vr6 Or a 1.8t 20v motor all use a more typical type flywheel/clutch setup and the flywheels should all bolt up to that motor... cant remember if teh vr6 is different but i dont thinkso as its a common upgrade for g60 and 18t owners to upgrade to a Solid flywheel and clutch from a 12v vr6 motor... so that would be a possably better option for teh clutch/flywheel ect

 

Simon, is this you?

LOL

the G60 uses a single mass FW with a six bolt pattern. the 1.8T i believe is a dual mass FW, with same 6 bolt pattern.

the VR6 is a 10 bolt FW. it shares only the clutch disc and pressure plate, not the flywheel.

the trick that folks in the VW world do is use a G60 FW (single mass) and a VR6 clutch disc and pressure plate. a little better clamping force while ditching the dual mass stuff.

and the VW TDI stuff is all based on a 6 bolt FW.....

FWIW.....

 

nope zack/kombi on the tex (camo gti)

joey would of know the bolts on the flywheel

so there ya go its the G60 FW you would want

 

i meant Simon as in Khaos.... not Joey as in simon-says

and yep Joey would know that stuff, but so would Simon is why i asked haha.

but they would not use VW FW stuff. the FW needs to match the starter and trans one would use for this conversion. same for the clutch, the Toyota splines differ from the VW i am sure....

these are VW motors using Toyota trans's.

 

So Flash.


do you think the 1.9L TDI would have been a better choice (say from early 2000's to around 2005 or 2006 i believe.)

me LOVING that diesel power, the smoke, the noise..and me LOVING my 4runner...makes me want to put a diesel in it.

just think, seein a 4Runner rollin coal down the highway

i've heard the 2000's TDI's are able to produce hp into the upper end of 170hp with a simple ECU flash..and be well over I THINK 300lb ft of torque.

although i wouldn't need that much lol

i'd like to be at around 150hp or a lil more...and around 250lb ft of torque....and still get in the 20's in MPG's

very easy to achieve that? without being a wiring NIGHTMARE...or should i look to a different diesel motor (besides Toyota....cuz i've never seen one.)

 

I think if you want to put a VW diesel in that will have good workable power and some longevity then a late model TDI would be good. You are into some major wiring and crap though. Once you start messing with electric pumps and common rail injection you are into wiring for sure. This means stupid problems and fiddling. Get some water and mud somewhere it shouldn't be and.....well......
BUT you can get major power and tunability from a TDI.

150hp and 250lb torque is easy with a TDI (guys are getting that with IDI 1.9's like what I did here) and 30mpg is easy. I was getting 700km+ per tank with this setup (30ish mpg, 31 tires, 4:10 gears)

The thing about diesels is that you can make monster power but still have very good milage if you are not leaning on it. Unlike a gas engine that once you start adjusting stuff your milage goes out the window. (because a gas engine can't run lean, diesels always run lean)

I like Toyota trucks as trucks, not tuner cars. I want dependable and something that can take abuse. VW diesels are good engines but I would say that they were not designed for a work truck. They are light weight (for a car) and high revving (for a car). If you just want a Toy truck with a diesel engine to drive around town in then a TDI would be perfect (rock crawling and slow stuff is also perfect for this engine, just watch the torque or you will break stuff).

For me to do again I would go with a Toy Diesel from over the pond (3L turbo). If you are going to go through the hassle (which I did) this is what I would do. Toyota quality!

 

thanks for your response Flash...and i believe i'm going to agree with you on the reliability part of it being meant for a car and not an offroad vehicle.

my 4runner will be expedition type rig, something i can thrash on occasionally and still drive it to work and school...it will eventually have budget LT suspension and a Supra 8" differential in the front.

a Toyota Diesel swap would be the best route, but finding parts here in the States would not be an easy task...especially if you needed one FAST.

the other option is the 5cyl Mercedes diesel...but i know nothing about that lol

 

I know this thread is old but man this is AWESOME.
Thank you sooo much for those autocad drawings that stuff is GOLD!!!

Cheers X10!

 

I second that Flash... Thanks alot!!

 

i read about a place in texas that will do the full conversion for ya for about 5-6 grand.. i havent really checke into it thou... I would say using a TDI in a 2wd truck that is your daily driver you would just be fine do getting car results..

2 could always find a old detriot diesel 2 cycle 353t or a 453t

you would get yor torque but you could throw your fuel encomy out the window..

i dont understand why some you guys on her just dont get all those old 6.2 liter diesel engines that can be found for cheap... and your looking at or around 21 mpg.. i would say..

but here is a place not far where i live that have a endless supply in those 6.2 diesel and other engines aswell


http://www.whiteowl.com/

 

ok i found the site of that place in Texas...


http://www.dieseltoyz.com/index.html

 

Has anyone figured out what it might cost to import an entire 2002 left-hand-drive, 3.0L turbo Hilux from Brazil?

 

i wouldnt trust any thing from south america.. i would just get it striaght from japan.. car/trucks in japan can only driven for 40k miles and have to be replaced like every 4 years..

 

What does it cost to import a diesel Hilux from S. America? They're all left-hand drive, by the way.

 

i wouldnt know.. just talk to the US customs first... and US treasury...

 

I don't live in the U.S.

Maybe, IF it's cost-effective, it MIGHT be an option to import left-hand-drive diesel Hiluxes from places like Brazil and S. Africa (despite the condition) for good 3.0L diesel frames, wiring harnesses, brackets, parts, etc. for the avreage guy or girl.

 

Hey Flash, sweet build man! I'm another ontarian like yourself, looking at swapping a 1.6 / 1.9 TD into my 97 ford aerostar van, currently going through the motions of finding a donor car and looking for adapters. any chance you'd happen to have the CAD drawings for the vw side of things (flywheel and block) from which I can build on to mate with the ford 5r55e tranny?

My major concern with the swap is getting around the e-test crap. How did you manage to get your vehicle through the driveclean program? Did they just simply test it as a diesel, no questions asked? or what?

Thanks!
Glad to see i'm not the only one obsessed with them rattly ole v-dubs
Bryan

 

I got that one... according to the place where I get my tests done if you use a different than stock engine to re-power your vehicle it gets classed as a "Hot Rod" and the emissions numbers applicable to the installed engine would apply.
However as I understand it you can't go put in a 25yr old engine to run around the whole test procedure you still need to pass some sort of test... lol