I am going for a bit of both. I will have to tune it up good because the truck is heavy just so that it drives good. That is all I am after. The engine is not big enough to make a "performance truck" out of this Toyota.

The thing with diesels is that you can tune it for lots of power then just change a few things while driving to get your economy as well. Not like a gas where you are stuck with mandated mixture (14.7:1)

This is what VW did with the "eco-diesel". These engines have a modified (missing some parts)pumps that don't add more fuel based on boost pressure, therefore you don't use as much fuel. So If I wanted to I could close off the boost enrichment circuit (air circuit) and run very lean when cruising. Then turn it on when I want to go, voila, power.
Some guys use boost controllers for this. With a diesel you don't have to keep the mixture so perfect, just lean it out and cruise to the "clatter"

 

Would you happen to have measurements or source info for the countersunk allen head bolts you used to mate the adapter to the block?

Thanks

 

my wife has a 06 jetta tdi, does any one think she would mind if i took her 1.9 for my rig? I just got my first 4runner a week ago it has 193000 miles on it. I figure I will have to rebuild it at some point, so does anyone have an idea about what that cost? or is it cheaper and easier to drop in a different motor. I have the 3.0. oh and how can you find out if the head gasket has been replaced.

 

to find out when your head gasket was done either look through the papers you got from the previous owner or take it down to a toyota dealer and have them check the vin.

 

thank you for your help I'll do that.

 

PLEASE don't hijack this thread. I don't want to have 25 pages of unrelated crap about 3slow head gaskets.

Motorhead, the countersunk bolts are m12X1.75 cap bolts (grade 10.9 = grade 8). Nothing special about them. I got 40mm long but had to cut to length. I got them at a bolt place (Brafasco). If you are in the US I am not sure of the stores there. McMaster-Carr will have them for sure.

 

Sorry for the confusion, I had my terminology messed up...In the second photo of your first post, you show the adapter attached to your mock-up block with bolts whose heads resemble large wood screws with allen sockets, going in flush to the adapter plate. Those are the ones I'm really interested in, although the extra info is great...I'm in Ottawa, so unless they are really odd, I should be able to find a local supplier.

Thanks

 

They are called flat socket cap screws. They are on the shelf at Brafasco. the measurments are in the post.

 

Best wind gen ive seen

http://www.otherpower.com/bartmil.html

Good thread, I want to do the diesel swap as well.

Cant decide if the 1KZ or the VW would be cheaper/easier

 

The vw would probably be cheaper but the 1KZ would probably be easier from a bolt-in/out perspective... vw parts would probably be easier to come by over here as well...

nice homebrew wind generator too

 

Flash

Great job

will be keeping an eye on your progress.

 

Well I got the body on today. Ran into a problem though, the firewall hits the back of the engine. There is a coolent outlet for the heater on the back of the head, I removed it but it still hits. I am hoping I can block that outlet and drop the engine down an inch or so. What a pain this is going to be. I am going to have to cut my mounts off and remwld them lower in the frame. This is what you get when you do it without the body on.

I tryed jacking the body but I got 3 hockey pucks under each mount and it is still not clearing (3inchs of lift). At lease the body is on and I can start woking on everything else as well.

 

Well that's annoying flash...
You can't really cut anything out of the fire wall either because the heater/AC stuff is right behind there tight to the wall as well...
but if you were to try you might be able to steal at least an inch or so there since there is about an inch and half free space between the heater box and the back of the dash/radio though you would probably need to fab a little new duct work [maybe]...

 

okay I rewelded my mounts so that the engine is as low as it will go without hitting the oil pan on the diff. I left just enough room to get the drain plug out. With 2 inches of body lift I have between 1/4 and 1/2 inch clearance between the vavle cover and the firewall. i didn't want to lift the body but i see no other way to get it in there.

If I was to do it again and for anyone else who is going to do this swap, I would move the engine and trans/t-case forward about 2 inches. The engine is so short that you would still have lots of room at the front but would give you some room to play with at the back.

I have to make a little plug for the back of the head so that I can redirect the coolent out of the side as the regular outlet hits the firewall.

Next I have to hook the rad up, do some wiring, and run the fuel filter and lines so that I can fire her up. Soon very soon.......

 

very exciting! its amazing how much room you have between the engine and the core support. you should fill it with something.........[fat turbo/intercooler].

 

well with 2" of bl you can run some oversize tires now...

 

Ahh I never remembered that till now. I've heard that when you swap these motors in you gotta move them forward a bit but it never struck me till now to mention it. Sorry about that. I should have thought about that. There sure is alot more room in there than there is in mine. I'm interested in seeing an intercooler setup on it. And I really would like to hear what it sounds like. The Jetta turbos whistle pretty nicely. Yours should sound right nice with an open exhaust. Really interested in seeing the mileage numbers as well and how they compare to mine. Yous should be better as mines an auto. Mines doing really bad right now. Not getting much more than 22 or so. The air filter is right black and warming it up isn't helping.

 

I am not planning on an intercooler right away. I will be doing it though. When this engine was in the car you could hardly hear the turbo spin up and some guys on the VW groups say the same thing. The 1.6 T3 turbos are really loud when they spool which is nice. We will see.

I figured out last night how I am going to mount the rad. I have to remove the window washer tank though. With that out of the way the Jetta rad will fit in there. I will just have to make a new tank for the window fluid.

I also started to figure out the wiring for the dash. The main harness goes through the firewall and 3 plugs go to the computer and 2 plugs do not. The white plug is the one that feeds the guage cluster. It has the speed sensor and tach wires in it. This is good news because I can just take apart the old wire harness and cut out what I don't need (almost everything).

I will just have to figure out how to trigger the tach with the alternator signal like the jetta. Does anyone know what kind of signal comes out of the alternator tach connection?

 

Well I have not worked on the truck in a while as I have been very sick. I finally got some stuff done though.

Got the auto pedal bracket changed to a manual bracket and have the clutch master mounted, so my pedals are done.

I got the guage cluster out and just have to swap with the one in the other truck that has the full guages then the dash will be done.

Found another interference. The steering shaft that goes from the wheel to the steering bock hits the alternator. I am go to make a plate and shim the box over 3/4 of an inch to clear the alt. I had to cut some of the front part off the body to allow the box to move that far. I will take some pictures of this stuff next time I am out there.

I need to get it running soon for some motivation........

 

Sorry to hear you were under the weather... got a screaming head cold me self...