It's not all work. Here's some shots of play (and work lol)

 

Tranny is in.





You can see my Dakota Digital flywheel sensor for my tachometer in the 2nd pic. I have another bellhousing the I used as a test piece before I cut up my Marlin bellhousing, and the test one turned out better. I'll sell it to anyone that wants it; just PM me.

The tranny went in smoothly. One BS fact that I discovered is that the older T-cases have LONGER SHIFT FORKS!!! Wasted 2 brand new seals and an hour of time sprucing up my G54 t-case. Had to then go back and spruce up the crappy W56 t-case... I still hear some weird rattling noises, but now I'm not so sure that they aren't engine noises instead of tranny noises. Tranny works good and shifts tight, though.

 

I'm finally motivated to start tearing into the motor again. I'm sick of constantly scorching hot EGT's. Even when it's 10 degrees out, I still see 1200 degrees easily.

I'm designing an intercooler setup and a meth injection setup. I was going to just go with the meth injection first to see how it would do, but then decided I'd rather go with the intercooler first so I don't have to drill a hole in my intake manifold. Everyone I see injecting meth seems to be doing it wrong. They try using existing holes on the intake manifold which I don't think are in good locations. The holes at the back are too far back and would only cool the last 2 cylinders, and the EGR hole I feel is also a bad location. I was going to drill a hold right on top of the manifold in line with the turbo in let, but now I will inject the meth into the line right before the intercooler.

Here's where I need to decide what to do:

Do I just clock the turbo and leave the manifold in stock form?

Move the inlet to the yellow spot like many others have done?

Or take the Cummins approach and but it directly in the middle where the blue spot is?

In stock form, it looks more like the Banks intake manifold. I would really like to make a nice smooth flowing intake manifold if I'm going to move the inlet.

As far as intercoolers and meth kits, I'm looking at the Devil's Own kit

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...-stage-2a.html

and this intercooler

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...e21196df606149

I want to mount the A/A IC on top of the engine back by the firewall and run either a 2004 Subarau WRX hood scoop or the "toyotafiberglass.com" hood scoop. So far, I've found one person who ran an intercooler (Air to Water) and saw a 150 degree EGT drop and never ran above 600 degrees. According to Roy at PeachParts, my IP is a rich running unit (a good thing), so I have plenty of power to gain. Right now I'm just rolling excessive coal and excessive EGT's.

 

Look up an intake from a none turbo om617 I believe this is an easy swap? May not be but I seem to remember people doing this to intercool.

For me I would take the stock turbo off and cut and weld to need.

 

Im not sure how many times I need to write this....ADVANCE YOUR PUMP TIMING and your egts will go down!!!!!!!!!! Ask me how I know

 

I'm not sure anyone's going to listen to you Transplanter until you post up pictures, a dynograph, and video's to back up all your text. You're starting to remind me a lot of a guy that goes by ForcedInduction that always knows what he's talking about and yet could never back any of it up with pictures or videos.

@MikeM, I've been searching for a W115 manifold but haven't found one for under $200.

 

Mount your intercooler in the bed if you want to be cool.

 

Good luck man!

 

@Logan- Lol... I can't. I use my bed too much.

@Transplanter- That's what I thought.

 

Im not to sure what pics, vids and dynographs will do for exhaust temps? Its just 4 bolts, prove me wrong. Remember, I do this for a living, own a business that manufacturers the swap kits and installs and tunes them.I have even offered you free parts for your swap. Its not my first time around a diesel, let alone a Mercedes. Like I said, prove me wrong and advance your ip timing and see what it does. Oh and dont forget your video camera; )
Btw, search YouTube for tdswaps for vids, been there all along.

 

I'm talking about your 300 claimed horsepower. You said over 2 months ago that you were gonna tell all, but we haven't heard a word from you.

 

OK I'm pretty sure when I googled the OM617 power potential at one point I read that it's impossible to get a reliable 300 horsepower out of these engines. And that there's a lack of aftermarket internals so you pretty much got what you got.

As far as retarding or advancing your timing I don't really know much about diesels in that regard.

 

Just google diesel timing advance ang egts, you might be surprised. I know it lowers egts because I do it ALL the time. The 300hp engine is getting a pump built by Temu in the Netherlands who builds the pumps for blacksmokeracing, not me. I could have him make it flow enough fuel for 500hp if I wanted to grenade it, but 350 is where the 617 will definitely blow apart. When it comes to the info for building these, I talk to the swedes and the germans as they have been modding these much longer than us by far, plus, unlike anyone else here in the us, they've actually done the mods and theirs plenty of vids of thier cars out there. The 300hp engine will not be stock and will have extensive porting, custom grind cam, shotpeened and polished rods ect, ect. Just because it isnt the best flowing engine doesn't mean that with enough air and fuel crammed into it, it cant make power, just not as efficiently as others out there.

 

It takes more than a google search to find out good info on building a 617 and knowing the right people (especially when they can translate)helps a ton. I was in the same boat a few years ago trying to find anyone who has done anything with a 617. Checkbout Rudolphdiesels super/turbocharged 617 on superturbodiesel.

 

First I want to say I do not have any experience with mercedes diesels but from my research the OM617 seams to be a great engine for my use. No it does not have the torque of the 4BT but thats OK as I would not want the extreme weight and narrow power band and the 300 HP that they can get out of tOM617 engine is of no concern to me because that is not what I am looking for. I really believe that a good sound OM617 with reasonable blow by (not excessive) new glow pugs, rebuild injectors with new nozzles, tuned injection pump (from super turbo diesels .com) new timing chain,open 3" - 4" exaust, block EGR valve that when installed in the lighter (than the 300D car it was removed from) with the stock 4.10 gears and 31" tires that this will be a great running truck for normal everyday use and very useful and wide power band.
I want to thank pyrojoe and powerstokejoe for all that I have learned from you sharing your experiences with your swap and after watching the youtube video of Transplanters truck at the drag strip it is obvious he really know's how to tune these engines although that is not the performance I am looking for in my truck I feel he could help me with what I am looking for in a much milder tune with extreme ease from his experience of doing it.

 

I attempted to contact the guys on the other side of the pond once, but to no avail since I'm not that fluent in German or Finnish or anything besides English really. What you should do, Brian, is set up a deal with them and add a link to your website, so that people can order built IP's from them through you, and you could make a little profit off of it.

@scruffy - Can you post the link to that drag video on here? That's the kind of thing everyone wants to see. And everything you said sounds good; I would leave your injectors alone, though, unless they need to be rebuilt. I only got negative results from rebuilding with Monark nozzles (excessive fuel, less mpg, higher egt's).

 

 

Got a few more things done to the truck this past week. Destroyed a U-Joint in the front drive shaft. Finally got around to adjusting the idle (but now the motor takes a while to return to idle after revving it). We'll see how it starts in the cold on Thursday morning (77 degrees here today and they're calling for snow Thursday). Parking brake is going in as soon as the weather permits.

Will be installing an exhaust cut out so I can quit covering stuff with soot when I haul it in the bed. Also going to attempt to advance the timing 2 more degrees and see what it does. If it's worse, I'll retard it. If the IP timing adjustment doesn't give me what I need, I'm going to attempt to install a WRX intercooler and custom hood scoop.

Took my injectors to Injection and Turbo in Topeka, Kansas. Words can't describe how good of people they are. Their customer service is outstanding. (Marlin Crawler could take a lesson from them. I still haven't gotten my core return refund from them yet). Injection and Turbo went through my 2 troublesome injectors for free. Upon disassembly, they found scratches in the internals caused by dirty fuel. I'm guessing that's from the diesel purge cleaning out the system and knocking crud loose. They said that they were sticking at some point. I reinstalled them, and they're running great now.

 

Sweet joe good to hear about first rate shops like that...

 

Waiting for replacements parts at the moment. Shredded the oil cooler fitting off in the filter housing. I can say that the injection pump has a lot more than 4 degrees of timing play when on the block. I will be using the drip tube timer and setting it to 27 degrees!!! For real this time! Lol. This is a good thing, though, because as the timing chain stretches, we can advance the timing more and more to keep our timing where we want it.

I got the exhaust cut out installed. It sounds cool; it's a lot different sound. I need to find a way to plug the stack to keep soot from coming out of it at all. Right now it's about half and half coming thru the cut out and stack.

Parking brake is almost installed, too. Hopefully ordering hydro-assist tomorrow.