Take it from me and don't waste the time/effort/money on stock gauges. Just get quality AutoMeter gauges. I used the very affordable Sport Comp series. The alternator is a night and day difference. Definitely something you'll need to keep your battery full of juice for starting that stubborn engine. 105 amp is enough to run my air compressor, KC's, radio, and headlights without drawing the electrical system down.

 

ok ill trust ya.i know what its like wasteing some time. and ya what rigs can i pull that alternator from at the junk yard? got my pump adjusted to 27 degrees last night About to fire the beast up! just stripped all that junk off the back of the turbo and made a stainless bracket that has a 2.5 stainless pipe to 3 in pipe all tig welded ig looks nice and clean. it sucks that i cant post any more pics i gave use my quota i guess.

 

use photobucket, much better. The alternator I used is auto zone duralast gold DLG 1347-1-11

 

There's nothing wrong with the stock gauges, Joe just couldnt figure them out. Just remove the one wire coolant temp sensor from the V6 and stick it in the Mercedes thermostat housing, the same with the oil psi sending unit, but you need to tap out the merc hhole to pipe thread and run a pipe to British thread adapter. Just send me your address and I will give you one.

 

Not sure how using them constitutes as "not being able to figure them out." Id really like you to quit posting in my thread all together. You dont read my posts, and you dont post anything productive. What I said was the stock gauges are too inaccurate and unreliable to waste the time on.

 

Don't fight guys lol...

 

Transplanter seems a lot like forced induction from many of the Mercedes forums such as peach parts and super turbo diesel he has been banned from both for giving his unwanted advise in other peoples threads and generally being an ass.

Anyways Pyrojoe22 I really enjoy your build but have one request. Is there any way you could put up a video of your truck at idle and then a few revs? Thanks and keep up the nice work.

 

X2 I agree with Joe, The after market gauges will also thread into the mercedes housings but you dont need to retap anything and you get a gauge with numbers on it so you know exactly what your motor is doing. Stock gauges just give you a goo or bad reading off the specs from the orignal toyota motor.

 

I'll get a vid up, sure thing! I've been meaning to for a while, actually.

As far as trannies go, it would appear that my trannies weren't the issue (thanks again for the trannies Riddarunner), but the adapter plate. Luke over at 4x4Labs is sending me a replacement adapter plate to rule it out. It would appear the a side load is being put on my bearings from an off-center mount. While I'm in there, I'm going to be installing a new pilot bearing, throw out bearing, a 9 1/4" dual comp clutch from LC Engineering (the clutch originally used for the 22RE-T turbo'd motor), and a 35 pound LCE flywheel! Apparently the stock Mercedes flywheel was 38 pounds (according to the response on my peachparts thread). The stock Toyota flywheel is roughly 20 pounds. 35 pounds will make a much better flywheel and will hopefully get rid of engine RPM related vibrations. The 20lb flywheel I have right now is probably ideal for accelerating quickly and highway driving (even though my truck's still a turd). The heavier flywheel should greatly assist in city-driving and rock crawling. LCE also claims that it's great for towing.

Also just got my tilt steering column and my 150 psi replacement oil pressure gauge. 100 just isn't high enough. The hydro-assist steering is only a month away!

 

Is luke machining the flywheel to be bolted to the mercedes motor? Is that a turbo fly wheel. I tried to put a turbo clutch on my flywheel and it was a no go. the disk would fit but not the pressure plate.

 

For now the flywheel is going to be left stock. If it works well on my truck, LCE may be machining one that will get rid of the adapter puck. I'm guessing you tried bolting up a 8 7/8" clutch to your 9 1/4" flywheel. They said they're the same flywheels dimensionally, but the holes and dowel pins and clutch surface are different, not allowing the smaller clutch pressure plates to bolt up.

 

Did you get a 9 1/4" flywheel with your kit. I got the smaller one so when i tried to bolt on the turbo clutch it was too big. whats the ball park price on the flywheel that LC is going to make?

 

Just doing some reading on the OM617 flywheels from a performance perspective:

"The factory 38# 617 flywheel makes the 617 idle and accelerate like a six cylinder (smoothly). With the 28# flywheel there is a little more vibration but it is still smoother than the 617 with an automatic which hops around like a jumping bean at idle." -t_walgamuth

 

I have to say that Marlin from Marlin Crawler is the guy to talk to when dealing with that company. Their sales guy, Zack, is...... worthy of being fired. Marlin is the nicest/most intelligible/reasonable business owner I've ever had the pleasure of talking to. Marlin Crawler simply needs to hire more guys to run phones and GET MORE PHONE LINES! You can't sell items if your customers can't contact you.

Trail-Gear shipped my order within 40 minutes of ordering it last time. I got the 4.7:1 t-case and the hydro-assist steering kit. So far, Trail-Gear has really impressed me.

I'm currently putting the finishing touches on the bracket designs for my alternator and power steering pump; then I'll get them on.

 

kinda off/on topic. but my local injection shop is working on putting barrels and plungers from a p7100 pump off of a cummins into the om617 pump housing. its a side job/slow season deal so i dont know if or when it will get done. but i will chime back in if i get news. should be a big power increase if the fuel can be managed.

 

Finally got the flywheel 2 months after I ordered it. Luke gave me the run around on it until I demanded it. It still came too late and put me in a huge bind. For that, I was very disappointed (and angry). Here are some shots of the flywheel:






The 35# flywheel has made a worlds difference. The new Dual Comp LC Engineering clutch grabs SO GOOD, but IT RATTLES LIKE A CAN FULL OF NUTS AND BOLTS!!!! I am very disappointed. The centerforce was also noisy; I thought I was getting away from that. Next time, I will simply get a stock Aisin replacement.

The 4.7:1 T-Case is sweet, too! For anyone searching for gearing information, I would recommend calculating the regear for the stock 22R motor. I calculated the car, which came with 3.03 gears and 24" tires. The regear for 37's should have been 4.56. I went up and went to 4.88 just to give it more oompf for all that extra tire mass. I should have went 5.29, however.

I can't comment on power or mileage yet, as my EGR tube cracked, and I can't make full boost. My egt's are soaring and it's a huge pain. I'm going to just weld the manifold shut when I take it off to install an intercooler.

I never thought about it, but you could just weld the EGR valve shut, or make a gasket for the intake manifold out of a pop can to just block the EGR.

On a side note, does anyone know what would cause the steering knuckle to leak?

 

Inner seal maybe?

So how fast is this thing? Just put a brand new motor in my 85 runner and it'll cruise at 80 mph on interstate with relative ease.

I think we should race them sometime.

 

Hey Joe,
The progress looks great! Just a few quick notes. I deleted my EGR. I was able to cut a circle with a hole saw and set my welder to the lowest setting and welded the circle to the solid stub of the lower part of the EGR tube and kept that clamp style mount to the exhaust header. For the top i just drilled two holes X distance apart and roughed in the shape of the intake tube and used a stock gasket, didnt take very long at all. That flywheel looks awesome! Do you feel like it pulls better up hills? I took my runner on a road trip a few weeks ago and i had some 18% grade hills to climb it did it but i had to delete the thermostat to keep it cool.

As far as the knuckle ball i would say bad inner axle seal. I have used marlin and TG seals and TG actually is a much better inner axle seal. Ive used the TG Poly knuckle ball seal and it works awesome! I wopuld almost bet if the inner seal failer i wouldnt know about it till i opened it up. I ahve installed them two ways(had them on both rigs) and had sucess with both. 1 I installed the recomended way to take everything off and pry it over the knuckle ball. 2 I made a 45* angle split at the top and just sliped it arouond the axle tube from the rear and positioned the split on the top, also no issues with that install.

Keep up the good work, Im looking forward to your inter cooler install. I have a WRX inter cooler to be installed myself.

 

Was supposed to take the truck to a wedding this weekend.... drive shaft was supposed to be done and here by Friday..... it wasn't even done being built Thursday. Took the motorcycle on the 300 miles trip (half of which was in the dark), got hit by a car not paying attention, and shattered my leg and don't have feeling in my right arm.

I believe I am done doing business with people from California.

 

Sorry to hear about your accident. I hope ya heal fast