how much boost can the stock turbo make super sick swap not a boring old 3.4 swap

 

PowerstrokeJoe probably knows this one better, but I believe stock they run around 12psi but I've read that these engines are really happy at 18psi. I'm going to get a VNT turbo off a Sprinter van eventually and shoot for 20psi. I don't really want to mess with my stock turbo as long as it works. I'd think you could adjust the wastegate on it for more boost, but I haven't researched it at all since I'm ditching it.

 

YEEHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

http://youtu.be/YmFMmtDdKfY

My camera died right after I set it up for the first start (((((( Really annoyed about that, cus it was awesome. Really smoked with all the Marvel in the cylinders, filled up the whole garage.

Went to Topeka and got a salvage yard starter for $32 today, brought it home, starter was way better but still kept hesitating. Tried doubling up my wire to the starter to improve current flow, and voila, worked like a charm. The starter was now spinning the engine real fast! Engine still wouldn't even think about firing so I gave her a shot of go-juice and she finally coughed a big healthy cough, so I bled the fuel system as best I knew how by cracking all the injector lines till fuel came out, then only leaving one cracked and continuing to crank the engine till I saw no air. Tried firing it some more on just fuel but nothing, but with ether I could get it to run for a split second, so I reached over and hit the throttle and that did it. My throttle linkage was adjusted incorrectly so it was sitting in the fuel-cut position. Now comes the part that I think I'll enjoy the most, which is tuning the engine, washing (finally) and painting it. Stay tuned....

 

that thing sounds like a freakin tug boat with the drain pipe! HAve fun routing that exhaust! Bet it feels good to hear it run. Thanks for sharing the vid. Your gonna have one wicked truckster.

 

Well, I'd like to apologize to my engine for ever feedin her ether. I thought my friend had figured out we were getting 12v to the plugs but we weren't. I made up my own wire loom just to get the plugs some juice (also pulled one out to make sure they work). Held the wire to the battery for about 10 seconds, took it off, hit the starter, and BAM! She fires right up! I don't understand this glow plug relay, but if I can't find it out, I think I have a different idea.

I'd like to get some good gauge wire going to the plugs, set up so that if one burns out, the other 4 will still get power. Then I'll run the wire to a relay, and from that wire I'll run one wire to the battery, and one to an ACC. ON ONLY wire, then maybe to a switch, then to the battery. This will allow me to run the glow plugs simply by turning the key on, then when I start it, the glow plugs will shut off and give my starter the full power of the battery. And I won't have to worry about someone leaving the glow plugs on.

Okay, now that I've typed this I realize my truck IIRC doesn't have an ACC ignition setting. I think it's just on or off. But to those of you reading this with the accessory position, I think that's an awesome idea. I'll have to think about this one a little bit more. If nothing else, I could run a switch after the ignition RUN position, before the battery, so the plugs couldn't be left on with the truck off. Anyway, glow plugs help A LOT! Lesson learned!!!

 

HA HA it runs!!! YEAH!...
sounds a lot noisier then any merc diesel I've ever heard before but that may be due to no muffler... congrats... now go make her pretty...

 

Lol, thanks for the compliment! I hope it is louder than any other merc out there, cus that's exactly what I want. I'll be running a straight 3" pipe up to a 4 or 5" stack when all's said and done.

Sooo, some interesting things for today. Went to fire it up at 7:30am this morn with 25 degrees outside. Wouldn't start. Used a quick whiff of ether and she fired right up. Then I figured out the glow plugs as mentioned above. Now it fires like a champ. Fired it 2 more times cold today. Worked excellent. Now to the fun part...

On the start up at about 2pm, the oil cooler vinyl line kinked, built up pressure, shot off the vinyl tube, and then lubricated my garage with 2 gallons of oil. Actually that's not funny. Anyways, I shut it down right away, so hopefully no harm done. I used some of the stock hydraulic line from the oil cooler to splice in this time (I'll get a pic up later). Now it is a straight |_| instead of a V or a U. Only problem is I can't watch the oil flow. I'll be cleaning for a while tomorrow....

Last update, I went and bought some new oil, and some antifreeze. Fired the engine up, let it get warm, circulated a 2 gal bucket of water through and dumped the bucket, twice. Then I put the gal of coolant in the bucket and tried to get it to circulate through. So now hopefully I can quit worrying about it freezing over night (cus I hadn't thought of that till today).

Gonna need to figure out a better temporary exhaust system if anyones got any ideas

 

Well I'm about sick to my stomach. Had a day off from school so I thought I'd get a compression test and here's what happened.

Noticed water wasn't circulating through my bucket after I warmed the engine up, so sure enough, the return line was kinked. I unkinked the vinyl hose and started it up again and water started pouring out. Then I noticed that I have a leak in the back left corner (5th cylnider side of the engine, on passenger side). It's coming out where the head gasket is. We noticed when we installed the head gasket that there was a shortage of material on that corner, it doesn't go out to the corner of the head. Not sure what's going on there.

Then to really make my day, we go ahead and do the compression test, only to find out afterwards that I left the F@#)(*@#)($*@#) breaker bar on the crank bolt!!!! The bolt was laying on the ground. I got it threaded back in, but I don't have a torque wrench that goes to the 199-240 ft/lbs specified in the FSM. Don't know what to do about this issue, or if I really ˟˟˟˟ my engine up or not. Here's the compression results. Maybe they were skewed by the crank bolt being out? I wouldn't think so but anyways here goes...

FSM Specs:

Normal: 350-440 psi
Minimum: 217 psi
Max difference between cylinders: 45psi

My results:
Cyl:

1: 380 psi
2: 160 psi
3: 340 psi
4: 280 psi
5: 260 psi

I'm gonna need a lot of guidance as to where I should go from this point. I thought since my engine was running so great that I had great compression. The only other thing I can add is that I took off the lifter arm pad assembly so I could get my nuts on the cam tower that I forgot to put on initially, and after I got everything back together, my valve lash is all really loose. It's supposed to be at .014" for the exhaust and it felt right with a .016" feeler gauge. Don't know if that will contribute to the compression results. I also would like to note that I did the compression test once the water started boiling, but it's supposed to be at 176 degrees Fahrenheit. Although the engine cooled down somewhat before we got it ripped down to actually do the test.

PLEASE COMMENT!

Edit: After calming down and thinking it over for a while, I think I'll put some loctite on the crank bolt, either blue or red, and adjust the valves. Then I'll reassemble, fire it up, and do another compression test. After that, I can be sure of my compression numbers. As far as the leak in the head gasket, they updated their gaskets with a metal ring around the oil passage, but no around the water passage (from what I could tell from the pictures on peachparts). My guess is that I had the water hot enough in the engine with the kinked coolant return hose, that it blew out that small bit of the head gasket on the corner. I think I'll get some dye from O'Reillys and run it through the coolant to verify that the water is what's leaking. I didn't see any water in the oil after I pulled the drain plug. I REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want to replace the head gasket AGAIN, I'd rather just use some copper RTV or something to seal up that corner. However, if I need to replace the head gasket AND my comp numbers are still way low, I will reconsider re-ringing the pistons.

My original goal was to just get compression numbers today, then wash the engine tomorrow in the 70 degree heat we'll have, and start painting. Didn't know I was gonna destroy everything today.

 

There is so many small variables people look over when doing a compression test. Was the battery on a charger, was the battery maintaining more than 9.6 volts during cranking, was the cranking time all even, and well if it was a sparker / gas engine/ was the throttle plate visually verified to be all the way open. Was the intake vacuum leak free, etc etc. Loose valves could cause low numbers for sure, i adjusted a 12 valve Cummins with my dad he wanted the the next size up feeler gauge to only go half way in or it wasn't good, my opinon was dam that feels tight, but gotta trust the old school Did you pull the injectors to do the compression test to my knowledge that is the only proper way to do a diesel compression test. It is pretty noticeable when a diesel has low compression, but with that motor i am not sure it was made gutless from the factory for taxi cabs and fuel mileage. What I would do is get the oil tested it cost 20 $ it will tell you the condition of the rotating assembly bearing etc. good bang for the buck. Then remove All the emission devices before install if it has a any haha why didn't you op for a 12 valve 6bt or 4bt cummins black smokker yoter would be bad a$$ i assume $ you probly got the benz for penny's

As for the harmonic balancer bolt I have never torqued one in my entire life you need to hold the fly-wheel or jam a hammer end on a connecting rod way to much work when it's in the car/ truck------ red lock tight and blast it on with a half inch impact gun, never had a problem once just think it is spinning itself tighter , 5vz calls for somthing like 250 ftlbs and the bolt is non re-usable i have blasted it back in 5 times , check if it is a pressed in harmonic balancer , like on a small block chevy you have to use a special tool to press it in but on our yoters you dont need to

 

bwill- I did the comp test thru injectors, or you can do glow plugs, but injectors was easier for me. I have a couple threads on various forums about my 4bt plans. It will happen, but not with this truck. I'm a poor college kid right now.



One more thing I just thought of, is that my THERMOSTAT could be the culprit here. Since I didn't have any issues with the line being kinked before, and since I hadn't touched it, maybe the thermostat just got stuck shut. ?? Guess I'll order a new one with the new head gasket.

 

I know the feeling of being broke trying to sell my s/c setups i am super broke in collage too!!
just remembered that compression tests have to be done on a hot engine too so the rings are seated right and everything is expanded properly. even more important on a diesel due to the expansion rate on forged internals

 

Well, one last thing to add. It's always best to ask questions when you're unsure, but you don't always have time to get questions answered, and in my case, I didn't see that my head gasket was shipped to me with a crease in it until we were putting it on, and my friend said it should be fine. However, now it makes sense why my #2 cyl is so low on compression. Hopefully peachparts will understand, as I just found after 20 seconds of googling that creased head gaskets should be replaced free of charge.

 

If It were mine I would put oil in the cylinders and see what that does. That will answer a lot about rings. I creased headgasket would cause low compression on one cylinder but I would think you would have other symptoms. Running with no radiator may make that hard to tell. I did a compression test on my engine after I built it and cold my numbers were
350
352
345
350
348

If it were me and there was nay doubt I would go through and check everything and make sure it's not somethng little. Set your valves again. Run to your local auto parts dealer and see if they have a test kit to see about exhaust gasses in coolant. That should tell you something about your headgasket. Not concrete but it might show up something. Honestly it might be worth it to take it on down if you are that worried. Or of you aren't go on and run it and see what happens. It seemed to run alright didn't it?

 

It was running great, fired right up with the glow plugs, warmed up pretty darn quickly, and ran real smooth minus the clacking from the loose valves. I don't know how it even started with those comp numbers. All I know is I have a leak from the head gasket so I may as well fix it now rather than later. Then I'll check for any over heating damage (hopefully none), and check with a straight edge for warping. I still have to wait for parts till it can go in the truck anyway.

With your comp numbers, you're gonna love life. It should fire instantly in an Artic blizzard!

I ruled out the kinked hose tonite. It was a thermostat issue. I just don't know if the thermostat has to have water on the return side against it to make it open. My return line appeared to be dry. Then I poured some water in the return line until it came out the feed line back into my bucket, and then the feed line started sucking water after I started the engine again and it circulated normally. I'll get a picture up later to explain what I'm saying. I just want to know if I'm to blame, or if it's the thermostat.

 

as far as I'm concerned, a proper valve adjustment (proper being a very important factor) is an utmost requirement to attain reliable compression readings. It does sound like you have a few other "kinks" to work out--sorry to hear about the shoty head gasket--but valves adjusted properly will at least narrow your trouble shooting playing field. By far the biggest thing I'm learning from you guys further in the swap is keeping a level head saves you headache and cash money down the road. Keep on keepin on--you'll be truckin soon.

 

The other thing I should mention, is those air bubbles coming out of my injector pre chambers, that I showed in my video. I took the first 2 injectors out yesterday, and noticed some grit on the bottoms, so I cleaned them, put them back in, and tightened them down tight this time (last time they were kind of loose). I also tried to make a collar socket but kind of messed it up and I'll have to start over, but I got it so I could at least see if they were loose and they wouldn't budge. After starting the engine up again, the bubbles went away on the 1st cylinder, but were still there on the 2nd. And just tightening the 3,4,5 injectors a little tighter made their bubbles go away. So maybe I need to pull the prechamber out on Cyl. 2. I'm still going to have to replace the head gasket though. I'm not taking any risks with that. It sucks, but I'll be happy I did it once it's done. I'll post an update in a while with my cold valve lash specs as they sit right now, and some pics to clear things up. Then I'm gonna wash her off. Can't beat 70 degrees on a Kansas February day!!

 

I think I'll be able to figure everything out, except for the crank bolt. Can anyone give some guidance on putting it back in? There's a variation from 199-240 ft*lb for torque in the FSM. Do I need to order a new bolt? Is it like setting up an axle where you have to get the preload just right or else you'll throw out a bearing?

 

I do not beilieve the crank is that way on this engine. I torqued mine to 225 and called it good. Honestly all that bolt does is hold on the harmonic balancer.

 

Joe, did you loctite yours?

Here's my update for today. I made this collar socket for the prechamber collar. Got a $2 socket at the pawn shop, instead of buying mercedes' $90 version.




I adjusted cyl 2's valves, they were the only tight ones in the engine, so I thought that'd solve the compression issue. It didn't. So I pulled the collar out and cleaned it. There was a lot of crud in there. I tightened it back down and I went from 120psi cold to 130psi cold. Then I pilled the injector hole from the heat shield to the top, twice, with some 15-40w oil and my compression went up to 200psi. I don't know if this means my rings are shot or if maybe I just blew out the head gasket on that cylinder. I'm hoping for the latter. Only problem is I don't have $200 for new rings. As good as the engine ran, I think I'll just go with it. Should have checked this engine's compression the day I bought it. I got a new head gasket coming from peachparts.

Assembled the engine, sealed it off, and used the rest of the afternoon to rid my engine of filth!







I can see my oil filter housing and my crankcase!!!
Also ran a LOT of water through all the coolant hoses and tried to completely flush out the engine.

Here's the corner where what I believe is oil, was leaking out of the head gasket. Is this common?



And here's my coolant setup.



What I'd like to know, is do I have to have water filled in the top right hose to the point where I can see it in the tube? Otherwise I'm going to assume my thermostat failed.

And last but not least, does anyone know if the #2 cyl is the first to go out, like the 4th cyl in the 22r is?
I think tomorrow I'm going to get an adapter for my compression tester fitting so I can hook it up to my air compressor and put some air pressure in it to see where it leaks out of.

 

Just read your whole thread, super impressed. It's real hard trying to do a rebuild and go to school, I keep thinking about engine parts in class and why my 22re isn't running right. Good luck getting everything figured out, I can't help at all but will be following.