Lol, not to get off topic with duramax's, but ya, the lb7's had bad injector problems, and unfortunately the stock ones gave the best mileage. I got the codes, replaced the FF first, and now doing the FPR. Keeps going into limp mode when we pull the trailer. I've heard about that cracked filter housing too, but it's not that. If a new FPR doesn't fix it, I think I'll shim the fp release valve, as I've heard the springs wear out rather quickly. There's phantom limp modes too, but it rolls coal so I doubt it's that.

Back to the OM617 lol, my plan is to finish ripping it apart on Friday and get all my parts ordered so they'll be here when I get back from Christmas break. I don't know how long peach takes to get to your door. The only thing I haven't decided is if I want to take the oil pan off and remove the crank and hone the cylinders or not. Apparently these pistons come out the bottom a lot easier than out the top...

 

You are on the right track with the Dmax. Speaking from experience here if the bores are fine I would leave it. You will want to re ring it and they are really pricy. Also the pistons cant come out the bottom due to the oil jets in the bottom of the bores. The oil pan is absolutely awful to get off. Many of the Allen bolts on mine stripped out. The oil pump chain has to be cut to get the crank out as well

 

Okay, so ripping into the engine a little further tonite (getting the head off tomorrow finally). I took the oil pump housing off the front, and it looks like there's only 1 chain for the timing and the oil pump? I thought there were 2?

 

There should be 2 of them in there. It may be hard to see though.
Derailment alert. Joe I thought you might like this.


That's what in injector and CP3 job on an Lb7 takes.

 

YOWZA! Thank the Lord for external injectors on newer D-max's!

 

Subscribed!! Also wanted to give you another part source "autohauseAZ" is where I have been getting all the littlethings for my Mercedes(s) for years. About the oil filter it is a cartridge type with a pretty unique setup so I would lieto see what you do to it if you have to move it for clearance. (I am sure you know OP but someone implied it was a spin on.

 

Okay, so before I remove the head, I wanted to get a timing chain stretch reading, and what I got by lining up the 2 marks (one on cam tower and one on thrust washer) was the arrow pointing to the pin that comes up and out of the Degrees wheel (the one to the right of the arrow in this picture. I borrowed this picture because I'm at work right now.) I'm wondering what that means about my timing chain

 

No arrow visible... don't know what the cost factor is but if you're in doubt about the chain why not replace it now before you put the engine in just in case?

 

I'm not sure on your readings honestly as my new block has a good chain in it. Here is a link on everything you should need to know. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

 

Okay, I'm replacing the timing chain anyways so I'll forget about it. I took the head off today. Reassemblys gonna be a biotch. PowerJoe what are you doing about the water pump and the injectors? Water pump looks to be about $60. Injectors are $60, $66, or $100 (Bosch). I'm going to try to find out about getting them rebuilt and I'll let you know what they say. My buddy just sent his VW injectors to a reputable place in Oregon and they work great.

 

Yeah there are a ton of parts in there. I'd check Mercedessource.com on the injector nozzles I think they are like 22 a piece. These injectors are so simple to rebuild as long as you are very careful. My water pump is good so I am leaving it for now. It doesn't look to be too bad to fix if need be in the future.

 

Ya, easier than the toyotas! Guess I'll leave mine, too. As far as injectors, here's what I've found.

$25 per injector to be rebuilt at a diesel shop or this kit that I found

http://mercedessource.com/node/6016

 

Just happened upon this thread and while reading through noticed someone bring up oil pan clearance. For about a year and a half ive been researching this swap and have found one 89 4runner with the swap at stock height (no body lift or sas) as if it rolled off the lot...you can check out a video of the truck on youtube by searching "diesel yoda". Anyways, I called him up to ask how he dealt with the oil pan as it is a front mounted sump opposed to the 22re rear. The IFS framework does NOT interfere, but the steering DOES. I suppose a body lift already installed could allow you to build taller motor mounts which may give you the clearance. Either way, the guy who did the swap said he slightly modified the oil pan up front to clear the steering. He seemed pretty lax on the subject and explained it did not require removing a huge chunk of the pan. Just though I'd share the good news. The benz td is a bit heavier than the 22re especially and the importance of keeping your center of gravity down on an offroad vehicle is often misunderstood. Keep up the good work man. And yea, good thinking keeping your R-series tranny. The w56 is solid and hangs out behind a lot of v-8 swaps but the R is just a better insurance policy especially if you want to turn up the power.

 

Here's the above mentioned "diesel yoda" video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjBc-w6Lz5M

This is the blurb that appears under the video on utube...

Uploaded by DieselYoda on Nov 25, 2011

We are located in Wilmington CA and we can build the perfect diesel hunting and survival rig for you. Legendary Toyota 4X4 1st. generation reliability combined with an OM617 Mercedes diesel engine that with a little care can last 500,000 miles or more...and if need arises can be converted to run on used cooking oil: can you thing of a better zombie apocalypse vehicle?
Enjoy the video (in 1080p HD if you are on cable / DSL) and give us a call if you have any questions.
Thank you and May The Torque Be With You!
Diesel Yoda


On the oil pan mod I seem to recall another member here who was doing a mod on his runner turning it into an "expedition" rig did a 617 swap and he solved the problem with a small divot taken out of the front bottom edge. I'm sure his thread is still here but it may be hard to come up with it was a few yrs ago... if I can find it I'll post the link.

Edit: Sorry guys I just went through all my existing old subs. [2500+ of them] and I can't find it... I must have unsub.'d from the thread. It is here though someplace.
Try a search for "Expedition Rig" or something like that...

 

As far as oil pan mod's, I've seen just a simple cut and piece of angle iron welded in, and I've seen such extensive cuts that they've taken the oil pick up and cut and rotated and rewelded it so it would slant down towards the front to suck up oil. I'm going to wait and do the sas and engine swap at the same time so I can know for sure where I can relocate my steering box to if I need to move it forward at all.

here's the angle iron, i'll try to find the rewelded oil pick up later

 

Hey Pyro I think that's pretty much what the guy I was talking about did except he used a piece of pipe to get a nice curved profile as opposed to the square angle iron one you have. Looks good.

 

I'm not worried about changing the pan, I'm worried about protecting it. Any idea's on some good protection for an oil pan that sits in front of everything? I'm thinking maybe a bolt on frame cross member/skid plate with a hole for draining oil if needed. And with the welds, make sure you get some good hot burns and have no holes. We just tested our welds in lab at school this week and even something that can hold water can still let oil leak through... I'll post pics up on my build thread later


And as promised here's the other pictures and heres the link to the build if you want to read it
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...d.php?tid=1961



Modified oil pick up:

 

It looks like the guy in the linky had an SAS with a high steer set-up if you're running IFS you may not need to have as aggressive a cut out. good link though

 

Well I guess its time for a long overdue progress update. I have my engine for the most part back together. I have a few odds and ends yet to clear up but its mostly there. My computer decided to die so I have no pictures a the moment. I have the A/C bracket about buttoned up and am going to hut the alternator next. I am really shooting to try to have this thing in the truck by the end of next week. As for the oilpan. I am hoping and praying that I have enough of a body lift to clear it. Stay tuned because its about to start happening.

 

Good luck Joe