mountain goat, is the R series tranny's longer than 25.5" ? Because the G and W series are all 25.5" long according to marlin crawler, but they don't list sizes for the R series.

Edit: Joe or Dmarsh, can you tell me how to get the alternator bracket off? I got the 4 17mm nuts off the side. Looks like there may be one more behind the crank pulley? Do I need to take that pulley off to get to it? And is there anything special to do to take that pulley off?

Also what I need to figure out asap is the oil filter system, and injectors. I found a place that will pop test my injectors for $8/each. Just want to know if I should get new Monarch nozzles while I'm at it? And for the oil filter, I want to get the relocation plates, but I don't know where to put the filter, and if I should use the stock one or get a new one. Wondered if you or Dmarsh have thought about these 2 things yet. Thanks!

 

Pyrojoe- you have to turn the harmonic balancer until the notch is in front of the bracket. There is a 13 mm bolt in there I believe.

 

pyrojoe, I am using the stock MB filter in the stock location, I have just enough room to change filters under the master break booster

 

My oilfilter is still in the stock location and I am going to leave it there. there is plenty of room for me to work with it there. As for injectors the pop test will only tell part of the story there. The nozzles will have more of an impact on your spray pattern. If it were me I'd replace them. I know the history of mine but I plan to do them soon just money is tight right now. Oh and as for the length I can't remember if the R is longer or just mounted differently but it definitely sits farther forward.

Mountaingoat- I promise I haven't forgotten to get your pictures. I went to take them and my memory card has gone MIA. I am going to get a new one tomorrow.

BigShrek - when were you wanting the mock up plate?

I am very sorry for the lack of updates. Things have been really crazy here lately. I switched majors over to automotive tech at school and I am playing catch up right now. Today was the first day of class for me. Not much happened over the weekend on the truck. I helped a good friend put an input shaft seal on a WD Allis. I am hoping to get some time tomorrow to work on the truck. I'll have to see. I really would love to have it done but I'd rather not get behind in school or end up rushing the truck and not doing something right.

 

Oh and Joe it does help to take the pulley and harmonic balancer off but it is not necessary. If you do just take off those 6 allen head bolts and the belt pulleys come off. Remove the crank pulley bolt and pull the balancer off with a balancer puller, make sure to mark which way it came off. I used a punch.

 

Mountain Goat- I have heard good things about Luke. The adapter plate is not hard to build but it takes a pretty good chunk of time. Honestly I don't think I would have attempted mine had I not had access to the tools I do. I am not sure how your engine will sit in compared to mine but you will probably have to notch out the oil pan to clear the steering stabilizer. It's not a bad job though. 150k is nothing on these. The spare block I have has the cross hatching in the bores plain as day and it has 350k on it. If only the oil cooler line hadn't blown. I am really looking forward to seeing your swap! I think we need to have a get together of all the 617 yota's some day!

 

Mountain goat- here are some pictures of my mounts. They aren't the best as its hard to get a good picture in there with the engine in the truck. The mounts are ugly but I believe they will hold. The end plates are 1/2 inch and the rest is 5/16.
Passenger side.





Driver's Side






Honestly I stewed about those mounts for 4 or 5 days. I finally went out there and put the motor where I wanted it on a jack and went to town with cardboard and scissors and knocked em out in a few hours. If you need more pics I'll try and get some better ones in the daylight.

Now for a progress update. I had a little delay this weekend. I helped a good friend put an input shaft seal in their tractor.

It was nice to have a simple job for a while I was starting to get burned out on the truck. I have discovered the little annoying things take time. I had to order a special fitting to adapt my oil pressure sender to the housing. I am going to have to drill out the thermostat housing to fit my temp gauge sensor as well as my fan temp sensor. I got most of the way through plumbing the radiator and ran out of hose. I am using the existing 3.0 rad for now. I am next to positive I will have to go bigger. I want to see though. Here are some pics of the mount for the radiator. It is no where near done and needs a lot of clean up work and paint but it works for mock up.



By a miracle I cut that hole directly above the fuel pump so now I don't have to drop the tank lol.
I also got my gauges wired in. I really like them. I have a water temp gauge that is mechanical and it will go in the dash by the clutch cancel switch.


Ignore the mess of wires I left them long for now until I know for sure where the sensor wires are going to have to run. I managed to drop my boost gauge on the floor and it quit working. I called Glowshift and told them what happened and the guy said that he would get it replaced. I know a lot of people don't like them but their customer support is awesome and honestly I prefer the look of them to other gauges.
I don't have much left before I fire it up. I am going to have to pull the t-chain tensioner as I forgot it was a ratchet style and I forgot to reset it. I am hoping someone will chime in and help me with the glow plug wiring. I have a push button in the cab and a Ford starter solenoid. I am just not sure exactly how to wire it. Well I have homework to do.... Yotatech is becoming worse than Facebook to me lol.

 

Those gauges look better lit up then they do dark joe lol...

Nice looking AC... those classic tractors are nice pieces of machinery... gotta think they're better built than the fancy computer controlled machines they make these days...

I did'nt see any evidence of it but did you remember to use thread locker on the engine mount bolts? There's going to be a lot of vibration on them and you don't want them to back off on you...

 

PowerstrokeJoe- thanks for getting those pictures up. I've seen a few different configurations but wanted to see what you came up with. Are you using the alternator from your 3.0? Apparently the mounting pattern on the benz TD is very close to accommodating the toyota alternator. Only slight filing is needed according to another guys build. Thanks again for the pictures. Now Im gonna go dig a grave for my 22re.

Pyrojoe- just in case I wasn't clear about tranny lengths, a build thread link you posted a couple of pages back was a merc diesel mated to the G58 that he eventually stripped first gear in because we all know g series are kinda weak at the ankles. To the point, since the w56 found in the 22re's is the same length as the g-series, fitment with a w56 will be basically the same as with g-series. If you look at powerstroke joe's engine bay (previous home of the a 3.o and thus followed by the longer r-series), he doesn't have the room for his radiator and thus must put it in the bed. Im sure you figured this out but I'm sitting here with my coffee and thought id ramble on anyway.

Due to the ever growing popularity of this build, I have found more info on what we might call a "long term" review i.e. highway manners, mpg, and reliability. The general consensus seems to be positive. Reliability is a big reason many of us are considering this and it seems as though the old merc diesel has held up to its name. Fuel mileage seems to vary between the low and high 20's. I have read of 19 mpg and 29mpg. I suppose gears, tires, and how she is driven affect this calculation. But the most recent is highway manners and I have read from more than one that it lacks in top-end power (not a concern if this is your trail rig). Now if we are used to the slow 22re and the almost as slow 3.0, I supposed this engine will fair fine as it falls in between as far as power is concerned but to get a bit more out of it suggestions have been intercooler and turning up boost. Obviously performance injectors are an option but in an effort to get as close to that 29 mpg the intercooler may be the ticket. Trickier for those swapping out a 3.0 I suppose.
Thanks again for all the great info Powerstroke joe. Off topic but how do you feel about the newest powerstrokes? Ford is making them with out International I hear?

 

Dmarsh and PowerstrokeJoe - It's a bummer to hear that you're both running the stock oil filter in the stock location. Guess I'll have to pioneer my through this one. I want to move it so that I can get to the injection pump to tinker with it much easier. As mountaingoat just mentioned, they can be thought to lack top end power, and I'd like to get as much out of it as I safely and reliably can. Figure it'll be easier to just move the oil filter than to take the IP off every time I want to adjust it. Don't know what to do about injectors. I'm also low on cash after buying those peachparts... Might have to go give some plasma lol!

Anyone gonna run 2 batteries?

 

Aviator- They are actually tinted so you can't see anything at all when the key is off. Therefore they are lit all of the time. Yeah personally I would much rather run an older tractor than a new one. We have 6 AC's running around here lol. I am going to put locker on them I just didn't have any in the shop at the time.

Mountain Goat- I am going to use the Toyota alternator and it fits the mount great with just a hair of filing. You are most welcome! My intent is to help others about this. As for lacking top end power.. I can fix that one lol. I've been working on diesels since I could pick up a wrench and I have a few tricks in store for the pump turbo and injectors. I am looking at intercooler ideas too. Up to a point you can add more fuel on a diesel and get better mileage. Diesel's are much more efficient than gas. As for the Power Strokes, honestly I am not a huge fan of the 6.7. That being said I don't hate it. You are correct in saying the 6.7 is built in house at Ford. I think Ford messed up by breaking ties with Navistar. I drove several 6.7's when I was looking for my current truck. To me they are too quiet and the truck felt to me like less of a truck than the earlier Super Duties. I went with the 6.4 I have because I wanted the Navistar engine. 99% of the Super Duties that have come through my shop with engine issues are due to neglect. People don't realize that these new diesels are PICKY about maintenance. I have owned a 6.0 and now my 6.4 and both trucks have ben fantastically reliable. I would jump at the chance to own another 6.0. They are a great engine if they are cared for. The 6.0 was the first emissions compliant diesel out and it had a learning curve. Ford jumped the gun IMO by suing Navistar so early. The 6.7 isn't a bad engine it just has a lot to prove. Time will tell.

Pyrojoe- I looked at mine and with my body lift I can reach my pump from the fender well easily. I also have a spare pump to play with as well. I am going to look at putting larger plungers in it and remove the ALDA. I am going to run an optima red top single it turns it over great!

 

Okay, sounds good! Maybe I'll forget about the relocation. I have a Yellow Top, so I should be fine. I friggin LOVE that battery. And for your alternator, would you mind gettin a pic up some time of it? I'm starting to work on my brackets for the a/c and alt. And don't forget to post some vid's of the engine runnin! Can't ever get enough of those lol

 

My truck does have a 3 inch lift though. Also Im used to working on Duramaxes from the fender. It would definitely be easier with the filter relocated but to me the reward was less than the cost. Yeah they are great. I am just using the stock alternator in the stock location. A/C will come later on as time allows. I need to get this on the road. Videos will come.

 

Well I finally got some time being that its Friday. I got my radiator mounted an got one of the lines run to the radiator before I ran out of hose clamps. For those of you that have been wondering here are some pictures of the coolant set up that I have now.





I still have to clean up/paint the radiator support and install my fan but its getting there.
I also removed the stock fuel pump from the tank and put a rubber line in its place.

One thing I wanted to mention for anyone who does rebuild their 617 or do timing chain work is that the tensioner is a ratchet style that must be removed and reset. I forgot to do mine and did it tonight. Here is what it looks like in its fully retracted state and where the tensioner is located.



Thats about all I have for tonight. I am wiped out and turning in. Look for more progress this weekend.

 

You didn't replace the tensioner? I got talked into buying one from the PeachParts rep. He said replace whenever you replace the chain. It was $94.

 

Joe- I didn't as mine wasn't too old but its going to be replaced now.... story to come.

Well had a bit of a speed bump... My so called good engine doesn't even have enough compression to fire. I am making blowby just cranking it... yup. I must have really pissed the Benz gods off. So in that spirit... this followed me home today.


I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet but for 750 the extra insurance of having a running engine around was priceless. I really hate to rip the engine out of it. I think I may use it as my commuter until I get the 617 in my truck rebuilt. Not sure but it looks like I am going on another adventure. I know better than to not compression test a motor before it goes in but I didn't on this one. I guess I got excited and in a hurry. So any how the next step will be to tear the truck engine down and if it's nothing major I will re ring it and have the head checked. If it turns out to be a mess well I guess blue goes under the knife. I'll be sure to keep you all updated. Mercedes Gods, if you are reading this, you might as well give up cause I will take apart as many cars as it takes to get a good engine! Well that's all I got for now... back to square 3 for now, such is life.

 

Also the bracket that bolts into the top of the fuel tank is rusted through on the truck. I can't seem to track one down. Would anyone following this have any suggestions?

 

Man just chop up that old Merc, get what u need and sell off the rest. Looks good though, you do nice work.

 

Love the blue.. hahah I hope this one works out for you.

 

Tin man- thank you for the compliment. It means a lot coming from you. You have an awesome build and do great work yourself!

B-yodaful- yeah the color is umm interesting.

Ok so I am doing some last checking before I yank the engine out of the truck. I am questioning the starter spinning the engine over fast enough. Will a 22re starter bolt up to my bellhousing. I know they will turn it over cause its been done. I guess I'm in disbelief that this thing won't fire even with either. ( I know that isn't good to use but the gp's aren't plugged in). I'm going to compression test this thing and if it flunks it's coming out.