Thanks joe.

 

I forgot to add that you are going to want to grab the vacuum hard line off the vacuum pump to connect the brake booster. You will need it.

 

joe brakes are soooo "limiting" ...slowing you down... stopping you from having a good time... meeting peter [or not]... I'll agree they [hydralic] brakes are useful but as long as your ebrake works they are'nt absolutely needed and can even lull you in to state of inattention... which could lead you to a boo boo...

 

So true aviator but I have had a few experiences without them and I think I'll stick with their "limitations" haha.

Well I finally got a little time to work on the truck. I resealed the power steering pump as it was leaking like a sieve. I guess it decided it was jealous since it was the only thing that didn't get re worked. I figured I'd post a mini write up on how to do it as its sort of a pain and for those who use the pump the new ATF will make it leak and leak bad.
I ordered the seal kit from peach parts as well as the filter and the front seal. Depending on which pump you have you will determine the front seal size. I was unsure so I ordered both. So first pop the pump of its mounting bracket and drain all the fluid out. You can see here just how bad mine was leaking.

Next remove the pulley. I have found that using an impact to remove the nut is easiest. Be sure to take the woodruff key out and put it someplace safe.

Next use a C-clamp to compress the back of the pump to remove the snap ring holding the back on. Once the ring is removed you can release the clamp and remove the back. Mine was a pain and I had to use a huge set of channel locks to remove mine. This is what you will get.


I then at this point took the opportunity to soak the pump in diesel and clean it all up.

Now its time to start with the new parts. Here is the seal kit.

This is the back of the pump where the Big O-ring goes. It sits in the lower groove towards the front of the pump.

You can now put the spring in and put the back of the pump together. Be sure to lubricate the o ring really good.
next take the cap off the relief valve on the front of the pump and put a new copper crush washer on it. While you have it apart clean out the little screen in there.

The relief valve disassembled.


New crush washer.

Now on to the front seal. I didn't get a good picture but take a screw driver and carefully pull the seal without damaging the housing. I then used a deep impact socket the same diameter as the seal to drive it on.
So the last thing to do is put the pulley back on and install the new filter into the bottom of the pump.


It's not that hard to do it is just a little tedious.

While I was at it I put 2 new fuel filters on and took care of a few coolant leaks. The thermostat housing to block is a real bear to seal. I think I finally got mine sealed but time will tell. I also got rid of the green coolant in favor of the ELC Cat coolant. I'll get some good pics in the day time of the whole thing. All I have left to do before the road test is loctite the engine mount bolts in. So thats today's update. More will follow tomorrow possibly.

 

Just thought I would post an update. I took the truck on the first drive today I drove a total of about 30 miles. It seems to run great. Not a whole lot of power but it will run 65-70. Temps stayed between 180-190. I hit 195 after a long hill on the highway at 65. I am going to take it to get inspected in the morning because my license expired. That ought to be interesting.

 

What are your RPMs at 70mph? And what size tires/gears are you running

 

In the "good life" they just change your registration from gas to diesel LOL. What are your egt's lookin like? My pyro shows 200 when the trucks off, and I can easily get it to say 1100 when I'm in 4th pushin 50mph. Hope the gauge is just off a LOT. And is the left side of your radiator cold and the right side scolding hot? I'm hoping that means my radiator is awesome

 

This concerns me. In what context do you mean 'not a whole lot of power'? Do you mean compared to the old v6 or just in general. The 22re will also do 65-70 but that requires very favorable road conditions.

My poor tired 22re is weak, and will only climb 6% grades in 3rd gear @ 45mph. While power wasn't my sole consideration for diesel, the ability to stay in 4th gear for most of my driving was a big factor.

 

Black 85- My rpms are 2750 at 70 and I am running what I believe is stock gears (V6). I am running 31's.

Joe- On the Highway I hit 1100 once going up a fairly long hill holding 65 in 5th. As for my radiator it should be fairly warm on one side and really hot on the other. Mine isn't a cross flow, but you can tell the temperature differential but its not drastic. What are your coolant temps like. Mine likes to get up about 195 on the highway runs I've had it on. I think I may look into a radiator like yours in the near future. I just sorta temped the Merc one in there for proof of concept.

techno- Compared to my old V6 I would say the power is equal or a little less. It will hold 65 in 5th on the highway on every hill I could find on the highway near my house here in Central MO. I have yet to play with my pump and I think it may be a little tired. I need to recheck the timing on it too as I feel it may be a little off.

I got to drive the truck some more today and I am loving it. Its a lot of fun around town The cooling system seems to be working well but I think I may add a larger radiator for peace of mind. So far so good though.

 

How do you know your RPM's? And yea my temps with my rad are good. Only got it to show 110 with the laser temp light on the hot side of the radiator. Seems to be working great. Apparently the thermostat never even opened up last night. Can't wait to see what this beast is like in the winter lol.......

 

I am going off of what they were before I took the V6 out, It had a working tach. Yeah I think I am going to pony up and switch the radiator pretty soon.

 

Well here's this.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd129.htm

I just gotta find out how to get the probe in place and I should be good. Might have to rob a small town bank first too

 

Sounds good joe... good luck with the inspection..

 

Also live in Missouri really interested about your inspection.
My 4runner inspection is due and I was going to limp in and get it done before I start tearing into it.
This area I doubt the guys at the inspection would care but still it will attract a lot of attention because of the diesel.
Let us all know how it goes.
Thanks

 

Joe- I believe they make an adapter to make the stock Mercedes crank signal adapter work with the Toyota tach. I'm going to give them a call someday and find out because I really want to run an sr5 cluster.

Aviator- Thanks It passed! haha.

inskeep- I had an interesting experience with it. I took it to a shop first that I don't normally use because I was in a hurry. He popped the hood and gave me some bs about having the highway patrol inspect it. I said thanks but no thanks. So I took it over to the local truck shop where I know the guys really well. I told him what was up and he looked at and said "thats cool as hell pull it in the shop." He passed it, and we couldn't find any reason why it couldn't pass in the book. I guess it all depends on the shop but there isn't any reason it shouldn't pass. Where you are I highly doubt they would care.

Well I have about 250 miles on the swap and things are going great. It seems to get a bit warm on the highway like 200, but I believe that to be due to having no fan shroud. It cools off to 190 once I am on the level. I believe the pop pressure on my injectors is not up to snuff therefore retarding my timing so that needs to be fixed. I haven't run a full tank through it yet but mileage appears to be mid 20's to 30 ish. Overall I am very pleased. Thank you guys for all of your help it's been a ton of fun and I'll be sure to keep this thread updated as I go along

 

Hey man... Ive always liked the idea of throwin an lil old diesel in these trucks.. an since my motor is turnin for the worst.
But anyways I know you originally had the v6 wit the five speed and stock gears... is it the also the sr4?.... If so you if its the sr4 it probably came wit 4.56 if not they may just be the 4.10s.... If your not sure could ya get the code of the vin if its not to much to ask???

Ive currently got 5.29gears wit 33s an my 4bangger ran great on the highway with the 5 speed. No idea what rpms... but the diesel isnt gonna be able to put out as many rpms... So Im wondering if this swap would require for me to get new gears

 

If you are planning on using a Mercedes Om617,then you gearing/rpm concerns won't be a problem. The 617 revs and pulls to 5,200+ rpm all day long. They are one of the highest reving diesels made.

 

Aite coool.... thx man

 

I'm not sure on the code. What section of the vin is it in because I would love to know. It is a DLX model not the SR5. Transplanter is right though this engine revs like crazy for a diesel. My 300D runs around 3250 at 70 and will rev out at almost 5k. If anything I think I could use higher gears in mine as it seems to lug the engine pretty good on the highway, but I think I have some fueling issues to work through too.

 

You'll need bigger tires or higher gears if you want to comfortably cruise above 60.