I'm hoping the engine fits nice and snug against the firewall with the W56 tranny installed. I forgot that's why Joe had to move his rad to the rear without major fab work. That's another reason I'm not going with an R series tranny. If I did, I'd move the tranny mounts back, which would lead to me having to re-size driveshafts. So that's out. Since your running IFS, the center section doesn't move, so if it fits it fits. The one good thing about IFS engine swaps.... You might want to look into some new torsion bars from Old Man Emu. They're a bit stiffer, and would probably accommodate the weight of the diesel a lot better.

 

I am going to leave it in. My app is a little different in that I run a fixed throttle at about 3800 rpm and then adjust load on the engine (travel speed) with a hydrostatic drive. So I am assuming that I am always in a boost condition and alda should be allowing full fuel. But if I understand how the system works, if for some reason there is an over boost (can a waste gate stick?), I still have the protection of the pressure switch cutting off boost to the alda and then limiting fuel. Still thinking this through and appreciate the chance to bounce it off better minds...

 

Well guys here is today's update. I have really enjoyed reading all of the discussion above. Ive learned a lot from it. I finally have my engine most of the way back together. I am going to try to fire it Thursday. Here are the pics.


Here are the pictures of my motor mounts. They aren't pretty at all but they are sturdy.

 

OMG that engine is clean and shiny ... wow!... it were me I'd have painted the turbo bright red just to be different... but with the black at least when you see it glowing cherry red you'll know for sure she's hot and not just painted red...

 

I can hear the whistle....

 

Thanks Aviator! It's not that clean anymore. I got diesel everywhere trying to start it. The star was a last minute thing because I didn't have any black paint. The whole cover will have to be repainted though because the paint did not adhere and is peeling off. I need to do better prep work.

Mountain goat... here you go lol

Well guys it runs! We got it going late last night but it ran like absolute hell. You will see that in the first part of the video. I figured the ip timing was way off. We pulled it off and sure enough it was 3 teeth off. Put it on and it ran perfect. All that's left is to stab it into the truck and a few odds and ends. Anyhow here is the video. Thank's again guys for all of the input and the continued support.

[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/ReS6vebHODo[/YOUTUBE]

 

Damn dude, yours sounds way better than mine now. I need to get that IP timed. CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And i liked the star wars intro lol, nice touch

 

Yeah it makes quite a difference in how it runs. Its a big pain to do though. Haha thanks I figured I'd goof off with imovie a bit. Oh and apparently the nut backed off my alternator pulley and when we started it for the video it launched it across the shop. Guess I need to find a nut.

 

ahhh y'all did.nt need nat nere alternater belt just then anyway... git her done!...

as fer nat nere paint trouble y'all got ter remember to use nat ner "Hi Heat paint" stuff... an if thet don't work jus go borrer some stove black from granpa and do her up old school..

haha I wus channelin' Mater there fer a minit... ur is int nat Cabble Guy feller?..

thet star wars bit were cool too but it scrolled a might too fast to read so easy...

 

Haha Aviator! Well all the paint on the engine is high heat stuff. I am still working on using Imovie lol.

Well I have the engine back in the truck and it fired right up with the Toyota starter and ran great. Now to finish plumbing and wiring. I'll continue to grab pics as I continue. I am hoping to have it in the exhaust shop later this week!

 

One note on your exhaust, I'm not sure how loud you want yours, but I'm assuming you want to hear the turbo as much as possible. To get a better turbo sound, you can take the pipe out of the flex pipe right before the down pipe. It's just a 4" long or so round tube stuck in there, apparently it sounds way better with it out. I'm gonna try it on tuesday.

 

I'm not sure what difference that pipe makes but mine is off and it has a pretty darn mean whistle to it.

Here is a video for you all of it being fired up in the truck. I am waiting on a fuel pump bracket which should be in in the morning. I should then be able to finish mounting the radiator and finish up all the little odds and ends.

[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/4fhW3zFtqSM[/YOUTUBE]

 

Ya I just got done taking that pipe out, I could barely notice a difference in turbo whistle. Looks like you got it almost finished! I just need to figure out the ALDA before I really warm it up tomorrow for the compression test so it's getting correct fuel. There appears to be no tutorials online on how to remove it from the om617, and I got a butt chewing about it today from DieselGiant, along with a lecture on why I'm not supposed to run ATF through my engine's fuel system. I'm really not sure what to think anymore...

 

Sounds sweet Joe... I see what you mean now about the tight clearance for a rad up front.
I was looking at an S class in the wrecking yard the other day with a pair of pusher fans mounted in front of the rad... gave me an idea or two... combine that set up with the [thinner?] profile rad off a Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager... since the e-fan off one of them is a mod we use on the 3.0 the rad should be big enough to do the job... but you already decided to go rad in the bed...

 

Joe, your compression numbers were the opposite of mine before you rebuilt yours. #2 cyl is my dead one and #2 was your best. I wonder why just one of mine is bad. And would it be worth it to just re ring my #2 cylinder?

Thanks. And thanks again for all your help. I'll definitely have to buy you a beer when we meet up.

 

Joe you are young enough to be my son. And though you and i have not met up yet i am proud of what you have done here-Dan

 

Aviator- I think that of I were to go back and do it over I would have gotten a 22ret bellhousing which in theory would have set the engine back. I have literally less than an inch between the pulleys and the front core support which I had to clearance. A thinner radiator would be awesome for sure. One thing to think about is exhaust as the way my engine mounts are it will have to be run as a crossover pipe. I am going to see how the bed rad works out but I honestly see having to do something different.. I am not sure but I figured it was worth a shot.

Joe- Have you put oil in that cylinder to be sure it is the rings. I would lean towards it being a valve issue or even the headgasket. Especially given your minimal blowby. I wouldn't do just one cylinder. You are that close I would just re ring the whole thing if it comes to that. These engines have some very very very tight tolerances so if you end up going through it measure measure, measure. If you want help with it I'd be glad to since it is fresh on my mind. I'm glad to help!

Dan- Thank You! That means a lot! One of the great things about this forum is the family like atmosphere. There is so many great people here.

Well I have the truck pretty much rolling. Just a few wiring things and stuff like that. I still haven't gotten the shutoff figured out. Does anyone know of a key on power source that stays on during cranking. I ran my gauges off the clock but I hate to use that to power the shutoff solenoid as well as the key on for the fan. Also I have a wire that I can't figure out where it goes. Its in the driver side fender. Thats about all for now. I had to cancel my appt for the exhaust in the morning as I blew the 80 amp main fuse and no one has it.

 

If you haven't removed it already, grab the ignition wire to igniter for the stop solenoid.

 

Not sure what that wire is. I don't really have many in my '86.

And I put oil in my cylinder, but the cold compression only went from between 120-140 up to 190-200. I hope it's a valve instead of rings. And thanks for that, I forgot about not having any blow by.

 

nice build wire looks like 22r alternator wire